Category Archives: French Polynesia

French Polynesia islands including: Marquesas, Society, Astrolls, Tuamotus, and Gambiers

St. Gabriel Church

St. Gabriel Church Repair

The St. Gabriel church is a large, beautiful church that was built in 1868 when Taravai had over 2,000 inhabitants.  However, now there are only about 12 people living on the entire island and most do not use or attend the church on island.  Partly because it is in serious disrepair and also because there is no parishioner to hold service.  When one of the locals want to go to church, they hop in their panga and drive 6 miles to the mainland where they attend service at St. Michael’s church. 

The found loads and loads of wood piled up inside the church the first time we visited in April 2019.  We later learned that the locals planned to repair and renovate the church — at some point.  We were surprised to see that the work had not begun when we returned to Taravai in January 2020.  The wood sat comfortably inside the church when we returned again in December 202.

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

Rumors of Repair

By February 2021 we had heard rumors that they were going to start the work on the St. Gabriel Church.  They had a huge fundraiser and the local government was ready to begin renovations.

There are about 12 people who currently live on Taravai.  Valerie and Herve live in the “village” and they told us that they would repair the dock, add two water drains (from the mountains to the ocean), clear the mountainside behind and to the side of the church, and then set up scaffolding and a work tent.  All of this work took about 3 weeks.

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

St. Gabriel Church Taravai

The plan is to replace the tile roof with a metal roof (cheaper and lasts longer), remove all of the exterior plaster (by hand), then begin work on the interior.  Makes sense as why work on the interior when the roof is in bad shape?

Volunteers Begin the Work

The local government decided it would be “best” to ask for volunteers from Mangareva (the main village) to work on the St. Gabriel church rather than pay the locals of Taravai.  Much to the dislike of the locals of Taravai.  We saw the first group of volunteers come over from Mangareva to Taravai to volunteer to work on the church.  Sometimes there are 5/6 people and sometimes 30/40 people.  The volunteers come over on the Tokani, which is a glorified people mover.  They primarily use this vessel to transport people from the main village to the airport which is on a different motu called Totegegie (5nm away).  The Tokani takes the visitors to the lagoon inside Taravai and then the volunteers transfer to a barge to get to shore.  It is a process.

The volunteers begin on the roof.

Roof work

Roof work

The installation of the roof was very interesting. Nobody is strapped or tied in as they work on the roof.  Next, they only use hammer and nails.  They don’t use bolts or screws or anything more substantial to hold the roof.  Workers nailed the support boards to other wood.  Then the volunteers nailed the metal roof to the support boards.  Hope there is not a big wind gust or storm because it does not seem like the roof is secure at all.  I am sure they know what they are doing as this is not their first rodeo but still….

Removal of Plaster

Another group of volunteers begin the work of removing the old, dirty plaster on the exterior of the St. Gabriel Church.  There are layers and layers of plaster on all of the four walls and the steeple.  Workers covered holes, cracks, and weak spots with layers of plaster over the year.  It was and will continue to be a slow process as they remove the multiple layers of plaster with puddy knives by hand.

Plaster work

Plaster work

Update on Church Repairs

Matt and I stopped by Taravai on our way out of Gambier. We had hoped to see significant repairs and updates on the church as it had been 6 weeks since we were last here.

Church repairs as of 1 May 2021

Church repairs as of 1 May 2021

Inside repairs.  They removed the pulpit flooring and removed the cross which had rotted.

They removed the cross with Christ as it was rotted – hope they replace it altogether.

Coming up next is the adventure of our volunteer day at the St. Gabriel church.

Events from this blog post occurred during February and March 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Taravai anchorage on a calm day

Polynesian Beauty

The Polynesian beauty can be found everywhere.  In the smile of a local, in the fresh scent of the tiere bloom, in the sparkle of a pearl, and in the setting of the sun.  It just seems to abound from every nook and cranny in this country.

Over the last two years we have accumulated several “imperfect pearls.”  Birthdays, trade, thank you gifts, etc…  An imperfect pearl can be one that is not particularly colorful or full of luster.  Or maybe it is marked or odd shaped.  Either way, there are loads of them around.  Technically, they cannot be sold.

One day I decided to see if I could put together a unique design using small pearls from my little collection.  I was super pleased to find 28 pearls of the same size.  I approached a local jeweler and asked her to drill them, and create a stunning necklace.  In the states this would most likely cost well over $2k, but here it cost me about $90.  I am super happy with this striking, one-of-a-kind necklace.

Polynesian Pearl Necklace

Polynesian Pearl Necklace

Sunrise and Sunsets

We are usually blessed with either a gorgeous sunrise or sunset.  We try to stop what we are doing to enjoy these magnificent opportunities. Sometimes we sleep through the sunrise, but most times we get lucky.

This is a sunrise over Aukena.  We captured it from the Rikitea main village anchorage.

Sunset behind Aukena

Sunset behind Aukena

Matt has such a good eye when it comes to photos.  He captured the same sunrise from the bow with our sail bag and solar panels.

Sunrise over Aukena

Sunrise over Aukena

At anchor in Puaumau, we have an unobstructed view of the sunset.  One night we captured a big storm cloud on the horizon just as the sun was setting.

Storm cloud on the horizon

Storm cloud on the horizon

The full moon rose to its glory of the motu of Puaumu.

Moonrise over Puaumu

Moonrise over Puaumu

Puaumu is a gorgeous anchorage that many cruisers don’t visit (for whatever reason).  However, it is one of our favorite anchorages with crystal clear turquoise waters, great snorkeling, fun exploring, and privacy.

INSERT 2 COLLAG OF PUAUMU

We had a break in the rain on a particular stormy day.  It was the “calm after the storm.”  Which created this beautiful Polynesian scenery  with calm seas and fluffy clouds.  

Polynesian Beauty: Taravai Anchorage

Polynesian Beauty: Taravai Anchorage

Lots of pretty tide pools around low tide that reflect the puffy clouds and showcase the young sea life.

Beautiful friends, new and old.

Me, Ruby, Eve

Me, Ruby, Eve

Our beautiful Polynesian friend Valerie, her new puppy PoPo and Roxy.  Roxy wanted in because Valerie was showering Popo with love.

Events from this blog post occurred during the last few weeks of February 2021.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind our adventures.

Polynesian Beauty

Easter Celebration

Easter Celebrations in Gambier

We celebrate Easter Polynesian style in Gambier.  I join my friend Poerani (the English teacher in Gambier) at St. Michael’s church.  Several days before Easter we peek in the church and see them creating magnificent floral arrangements.

Easter floral arrangements

Easter floral arrangements

They are both beautiful look at and smell amazing.  The kind of smell you want to roll around in!  The church always leaves the windows and doors open.  However, it is always super duper hot once the population fill the pews.  I decided to sit near the side door so I can get a breeze and escape if I get too hot.  Lucky for me it was not a particularly roasting day and there was a decent breeze.

Easter services at St. Michael’s church meant that the entire church was decked out.  Flowers on the pews and the vestibule covered in a pretty pale yellow.

Easter at St. Michael's Church

Easter at St. Michael’s Church

They had about 20-25 people singing and several others on instruments.  The songs were in both French and Mangarevan which did not help me at all.  A large screen displayed the words but by the time I figured out how to say one word, they were twenty words down the road.  But I enjoyed it none the less.

I had to use my imagination a lot and did my best to remember Easter services back in the states.  With everything in French there were few words I understood.  But it felt good to participate.

Afterwards, Matt met us for Easter lunch at Poerani’s house.  She went crazy with lunch.  She served a huge leg of lamb, rice and corn, and a gratin plantains.  After two bottles of wine and lots of food we waddled back to the boat.

A truly wonderful Easter celebration

Events from this blog took place on 4 April 2021.  Yes, we are very behind on our blog postings because the internet is 2G in Gambier. At least they are coming out 🙂