Category Archives: Gambiers Islands

Including: Mangareva, Temoe, Maria, Marutea, Muru Roa, Fangataufa,

The Beauty of Puaumu

The beauty of Puaumu takes my breath away.  We had this beautiful motu all to ourselves for well over a week where we simply enjoyed nature.  The waters have so many different shades of blue that you could create your own blue rainbow.  

Puaumu is located in the north east corner of the Gambier Archipelago.  Two local families own this motu which makes it private.  On occasion, locals will come out here for the weekend and enjoy the beautiful setting. Cruisers tend not to come this far north because it is not charted, but it is still navigable.  Below you can see where the charts end…white space.

The windward side, facing the Pacific, looks like it has a sandy shore.  However, that is not the case.  Dark rocks and coral line the tree line and the shore line is covered in light rocks and coral.  Sugar Shack in the background.

Puaumu is a medium sized motu.  It is about .4nm in length and .1nm in width at the widest part.  The center of the island is covered in a palm trees and a variety of lush green trees.  The windward side is covered in coral and rocks making it a challenge traverse across.  The leeward side is a small sandy beach home to tons of hermit crabs and other sea/land-based critters.  Many coral heads liter the lagoon side of the island making it a challenge to navigate to a safe anchorage.

Puaumu Lagoon

Puaumu Lagoon

Puaumu Highlights

Matt caught the sun lighting up the tree tops at sunrise.  The shades of blue in the lagoon start out turquoise and slowly blend in to a beautiful hue of purple.

This photo gives you an idea of how very isolated we are when we visit this small piece of paradise.  This shot looks at the far left (North West) corner of Puaumu.

Love this reflection of Sugar Shack in the water.

Check out our reflection

Check out our reflection

Looks like the sun is our anchor light on steroids.

A few more stunning photos

Sunrise at Puaumu

Sunrise at Puaumu

Moonrise at Puaumu

Moonrise at Puaumu

Love this photo of the sun reflecting off of our dagger board.

The American Flag never looked so good.  Made of Sunbrella – thank you ManuKea.com for the awesome flag that lasts forever and still looks beautiful!

Port Sugar Scoop / Transom – just a wee bit proud of our home!

Just a beautiful sunset with colorful rays in the sky.

Check out our other post on Puaumu.

Because of low bandwidth we had to spread our posts out. Events from this blog post occurred during early April 2021.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind our adventures.

Hanging with Local Polynesian Friends

Every once in awhile we have the privilege of hosting a few of our local Polynesian friends on Sugar Shack.  The local English teacher, Poerani (also known as Popo) and her friend Anne hung out with us for a few days.  Anne is an English teacher in Huahine who is visiting Gambier.

We picked Popo and Anne up along with loads of food and a full cooler.  You could see the excitement in their eyes!  We had hoped to raise the sails, but there was little to no wind.  A motor it is.  We head to Onemea Baie which is on the west side of Taravai.  It is a beautiful, isolated bay with a pretty beach, beautiful reef, and is surrounded by lush green hills.

Onemea with Polynesian Friends

Onemea with Polynesian Friends

The motor only took about 2 hours as we let the ladies enjoy the experience.  They hung out on the bean bags which were on the trampoline and had a marvelous time.

We enjoyed some water time hanging out behind the boat with some floats.  Then we get the girls out on the paddle boards and they make their way to shore for some beach time.

Polynesian Friends on beach

Polynesian Friends on beach

We enjoy a feast for dinner after a beautiful Polynesian sunset.

Polynesian Sunset

Polynesian Sunset

After a lazy morning, fresh bread and a pancake breakfast we head out.  Instead of returning straight to Rikitea, we take a detour to a new motu called Tenoko.  It is a really small spit of land just east of the main pass.  We have always wanted to stop here but the weather has to be just perfect.

Tenoko

Tenoko is a very small motu measuring about 500’ from end to end. There is very little onshore besides rocks, coral and trees.  It is surrounded by coral which makes it tricky to get to by dinghy.  The image below shows Tenoko in the upper right corner.  You can see the main pass into the Gambier lagoon in the lower left corner (pink lines below the red marker)

Popo, Anne and I jump in the water and enjoy the beautiful setting.  We were blessed by a visit from a spotted ray who hung out under the boat for well over an hour.  Such pretty creatures!

On the way back, we enjoy some sun and goofy girl moments.

Popo and I

Popo and I

It is a true blessing to have met these two ladies – they are the epitome of the perfect local Polynesian friends!

Events from this blog post occurred during early April 2021.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind our adventures.

Getting a Covid Vaccine in Gambier

The vaccination process is unique in every country and I thought I would share our experience in a third world country living in a remote archipelago during a pandemic.  France supplies the pfizer vaccine to French Polynesia (FP) and then FP disseminates it to its population.  In general, FP was very lucky in that the infected rate and death rate were relatively low in comparison to other countries.  Not to say that there was no tragedy here as there were hundreds of lives lost.

The most infected areas were the most populated areas (naturally), including Tahiti and Mo’orea where more than 75% of the Polynesian population live.  As you might recall, Tahiti and Mo’orea are located in the Society Archipelago.  We are located in Gambier which is one of the most remote archipelagos within French Polynesia.  In order of population and popularity: Society, Marquesas, Tuamotus, Gambier, Australs.

Officially, there are no reported covid-19 cases in Gambier.  But then again, there are also no tests here either.  We happen to know several locals that have had the virus.  Most locals self-quarantine when they experience symptoms and they don’t tell anyone.  They don’t want to be the one to bring it here to the archipelago.

The first vaccine made its way to French Polynesia in mid-January 2021. Five pop-up clinics opened up in Tahiti and Mo’orea allowing the population to more easily access the vaccine.  By mid-March, the FP government opened up vaccines to all residents over the age of 18.  And it included tourists with long-stay visas.  However, this was not the case in the outer islands.

The Outer Islands

The “outer islands” consist of any island outside of the Society Archipelago.  The process and availability are severely restricted once you leave Tahiti.

Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas was the first outer island to receive the vaccine.  They immediately put out a decree that the it would only be available to residents.  Fakarava, Hao, and Amanu in the Tuamotus issued a similar notice.   Not that we are surprised as it only makes sense to care for the local population first.  But the hope was that cruisers with long-stay visas would be eligible after the local population was inoculated. Not the case in the Marquesas or Tuamotus.  Cruisers in these two archipelagos are forced to travel hundreds, if not a thousand miles back to Tahiti to get the jab.

In Gambier, the situation was a little different.  There are approximately 1400 residents in the Gambier archipelago.  Most, like 98% live in Mangareva.  Of the 1400 residents, 300 are children and another 300 are young adults living in Tahiti going to school.  That leaves about 800 residents that are eligible.  Of those 800, 100 signed up on the priority list as being high risk (either due to age or health).

The vials arrive by plane on the one flight per week.  The clinic is already closed by the time the plane arrives, unloads, and delivers the package of vials.  The medical professionals then have 3 days to administer the vaccine.

The first vial arrived by plane on Tuesday 23 March.  We had hoped they sent 48 vials which would be enough to inoculate 300 people.  There are about 6 doses per vial.  However,  Gambier only received 8 vials.  8 times 6 is enough to inoculate 48 people.  Really? 

Are We Eligible?

The doctor and 2 nurses were more than willing to inoculate the cruisers (with long-stay visas).  However, they had to first give the vaccine to the 100 residents on the list, then the medical staff, teachers, and police.  This would take 3-4 weeks based on the receipt of 8 vials per week.  Then cruisers would be eligible.  However, we learned on 31 March, that they would first have to circle back and give the 2nd shot to those who were eligible – thus another 3-4 weeks.  Putting us eligible to receive the first shot in late April/early May.  Then we would have to wait 3 weeks for the 2nd shot.  We had not planned on staying in Gambier that long.  But the other alternative is to wait until we get to Tahiti in July to get both shots.  The dilemma….

FP remained closed until mid-May.  They require the vaccine in order to re-enter the country which means I would be required to get the vaccine if I wanted to return to the states in July.  It has been nearly 2 years since I’ve been back and I am anxious to see my family, friends, and physicians.

The Government is talking about requiring the vaccine in order to re-enter the country.  Smart move in my opinion.  However,  it means I would be required to get the vaccine if I wanted to return to the states in July.  I am anxious to see my family, friends, and physicians as it has been nearly 2 years since I’ve been back. 

We Get the Call

Lucky for us we have many modes of communication.  We have internet-based tools such as WhatsApp, email, FB messenger, GoogleFI, and Skype.  Then there are non-internet-based tools such as our IridiumGo (satellite) email and text.  And then there is our VHF radio (reach is 25 miles) and the SSB radio (reach is thousands of miles).  And just for fun, we also have a local SIM card with a local number that “sometimes” allows us to make local calls and texts.    Phew, seems like we should be constantly connected, right?  Ha!

We gave the local clinic our local phone number to call or text (local SIM) when they have a spot available for our shots.  We also gave them my WhatsApp number (internet based) as our local SIM card seems to work randomly and periodically.  They did not seem to want any other form of outreach.

Matt and I went to the clinic the day we had decided to leave the main village anchorage.  We asked when we might be eligible and they said in 2 weeks.  That’s great, we said we will check in the following week and to call us if anything changes.  We were with 4 other cruisers our same age.  All six of us were leaving the anchorage.

The following night we get hailed on the SSB Poly Mag net.  Apparently, the clinic had contacted Titoan, a local, who emailed a boat Pakea Tea (one of the 6 cruisers) and told them that all of us have an appointment in 4 days!  Pakea Tea was asked to contact all of us to let us know!  Evidently, the clinic could not reach anyone on phone, text, or WhatsApp.  Why?  Because the tower is down.  Of course, it is!  But we got the message and will be there with bells on!

First Jab

The clinic scheduled 10 of us at the same time on the same day.  Lucky for us we showed up 30 minutes early and were first in line.  You can tell we are all comfortable with each other (lack of masks).  When you enter the clinic, you wear a mask.

 

Waiting for our vaccine

Waiting for our vaccine

The process for the first shot:

  • Meet with health administers. They verify your identity, take your weight, blood pressure, temperature, heart rate. Wait outside.
  • Meet with the doctor. He verifies allergies, medications, and overall health.  Listens to your heart. Wait outside.
  • Nurse completes your medical card, cleans area, and jabs you. Wait outside.
Clinic in Mangareva, Gambier

Clinic in Mangareva, Gambier

The regular clinic is under repair so all of the clinical professionals are operating out of a make-shift clinic/building which does not have as much interior space so there is a lot happening outside.

We receive our shots in the back on a folding chair by one of the two nurses.  Yes, he is in flip flops and NOT wearing a mask.  But he was lovely and gentle.

We did not have any side effects besides a sore arm for a few days.  Not sore enough where we could not move it, but sore enough to let us know we had the shot.

2ND JAB

We had hoped the 2nd jab would be exactly 3 weeks later, which would be 3 May.  However, the shots will return to a once a week delivery (on the 1 plane per week) which arrives on Tuesdays.  So, are next appointment being 5 May which happens to be Matt’s birthday.  We had hoped to celebrate his birthday for the 3rd year in a row on Taravai, but we will have to adjust it this year.

We had planned out our birthday celebrations and goodbye’s around our shot.  Our plan was to be in Taravai, then head to Rikitea to get the shot, then back to Taravai before we left Gambier.  However, that all changed on 3 May.  A fellow cruiser, who got their shot when we did, received a call from the clinic telling him that we all needed to come in on the 4th of May instead of the 5th of May.  Well, it’s a good thing we were anchored near them to get the message.

We quickly changed all of our plans and headed back over to the main village.  We ran into the nurse as Matt and I pulled up to the dinghy dock.  He was picking up the vaccines that just came in on the plane.  So, we helped him load them up, hopped in his car and got a ride to the clinic. 

Yep, I was feeling pretty good as I carried in the vaccines while the other cruisers were waiting.

The 2nd shot was not as “organized” as the first, but we were in and out within an hour.  They asked us a series of questions, sanitized our arm, jabbed us and off we went.  Easy peazy.

They signed our health passport too.

Our arms did not hurt nearly as bad as the first time.  But I had a really sore back.  A few advil and all was good in the morning.

Events from this blog post occurred during April-May 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.