Category Archives: Gambiers Islands

Including: Mangareva, Temoe, Maria, Marutea, Muru Roa, Fangataufa,

Sugar Shack Gambiers French Polynesia

Totegegie: A Small Piece of Paradise

As much as we hated to leave Taravai and our new friends, we decided it was time to move on to Totegegie island.  Matt and I wanted to explore this small island that hosts the only airport in the Gambier Archipelago.  We visited for a few days before, but did not have a chance to truly explore above, below and around the island.

It was a funny caravan with Halcyon leading Sugar Shack and Triple Shot (trimaran) and Agape following behind.  We all headed to Rikitea (Mangareva) to meet the supply ship, provision, get fuel, and do a little internetting.  We did not stay long as we needed the sun to guide us into the new anchorage.

There are lots of bombies (coral heads) in route to this new anchorage, so we went slow, watched 3 charts and ran between the cockpit and the bow.  We had tracks to this anchorage, but one can never be too careful.

The water is crystal clear and a bright blue.  We wasted no time and hopped in to explore the underwater wonders.  It is an incredibly beautiful spot.  However, we were itching to move further north into the un-chartered area just behind the reefs.  We found what we fondly named “Three-Palm Island”, dropped the hook and enjoyed the sunset.

Sunrise at Three Palm Island

Sunrise at Three Palm Island

Halycon followed us the two miles further north while Agape remained at the old anchorage.  Just when I thought it couldn’t get better, it does!  The water is literally multiple shades of blue starting with a purplish blue, dark blue, blue, light blue then turquoise and it is crystal clear!

Sugar Shack Gambiers French Polynesia

Sugar Shack Gambiers French Polynesia

On one of our paddle board excursions I came across an island that had a bunch of the sea urchin puffy shells.  Love them!

A Collection of Sea Urchins

A Collection of Sea Urchins

Sugar Shack and Halcyon enjoying the isolated anchorage.  Check out the blue variations.

Sugar Shack & Halcyon at Totegegie (Upper Right Corner)

Sugar Shack & Halcyon at Totegegie (Upper Right Corner)

John on Halcyon Wandering captured breathtaking shots with his DJI Maverick Air drone.  Thanx John!

Three Palm Island in Totegegie

Three Palm Island in Totegegie

Sugar Shack at Sunset

Sugar Shack at Sunset

We enjoyed a few lazy days of snorkeling and paddle boarding.  What s piece of paradise.

Taravai Celebrations

Taravai is an island of celebrations!  We had three separate birthday parties, lessons in making leighs and spearfishing, and day out on Sugar Shack.

SUNDAY BBQ & MATT’S BIRTHDAY

Every Sunday, Valerie and Herve host a BBQ for cruisers.  This Sunday was extra special as it was Matt’s birthday!  Valerie greeted Matt with a beautiful flower leigh, happy birthday music (on the radio) and provided a day full of fun activities including volleyball and bacchi ball.

We all brought side dishes, cold beverages, and desert to go with the goat and fish are hosts provided.

BBQ Celebrations

BBQ Celebrations

A birthday sing a long for Matt with some cookies and crepes.

Matt's Cinco de Mayo Celebrations

Matt’s Cinco de Mayo Celebrations

LEI LESSONS

The French Polynesian lei designs are a huge part of their culture and are passed on from generation to generation.  The women make floral leis, crowns, and costumes that they wear for festivals, dances, and weddings.  Valerie was kind enough to take the time to show us how to make our own leis.

Lei Making Day

Lei Making Day

The stunning flowers smelled amazing!

A DAY OUT ON SUGAR SHACK

Matt and I decided to invite everyone on board Sugar Shack for a day cruise to Mangareva.  Rachel’s sister was due to arrive and we all needed a little provisioning and some internetting.  We invited Agape, Halcyon and our island hosts Herve, Valerie and Ariki.  It was a fabulous day out with good friends!  We even spotted a few manta rays playing around the channel.

Sunday Funday on Sugar Shack

Sunday Funday on Sugar Shack

Herve took the boys out spear fishing several days which provided the bountiful feast for each of our celebrations!

Spear Fishing with Herve

Spear Fishing with Herve

In addition to the Matt’s birthday, we also celebrated Becca’s birthday and Rachel’s birthday.

Birthday Beauties

Birthday Beauties

Becca was blessed with 8-9 rainbows, we lost count.

Sugar Shack anchored at Taravai

Sugar Shack anchored at Taravai

We had a blast spending a week on Taravai, playing games, eating fresh, local food and celebrating birthdays!

Great Gathering of Friends

Great Gathering of Friends

One of the other cruisers is from Brittany (outside of France) and he has a crepe press on board.  He made fresh crepes for us with homemade caramel, chocolate and banana sauces.

Crepe lessons in Taravai

Crepe lessons in Taravai

Sugar Shack anchored at Taravai

The Beautiful Island of Taravai

Sugar Shack made its way to a new island called Taravai.  It is one of the few occupied islands in the Gambier archipelago.  Other cruisers mentioned that a nice couple who lives on this island hosts BBQs for cruisers – sweet!.  We left Mangareva  at the sun’s peak shining time to make our way toward Taravai.  It is best to make use of the sun in order to avoid the coral heads.  

The beautiful islands of Taravai

The beautiful islands of Taravai

Argo was already here and Agape and Halcyon were scheduled to arrive the next day.  We joined the Argo crew and headed to shore to meet 3 of the 7 island inhabitants.  True to the rumors, Valerie, Herve and their son Ariki were incredibly welcoming and overjoyed to have visitors.  They showed us around their large property where Herve grows tons of fresh fruits and vegetables.  Such as bananas, pomplemouse, oranges, lemons, lettuce, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, avocados, basil, rosemary to name a few.

A "Normal" Size Avocado in the Islands

A “Normal” Size Avocado in the Islands

The property is self-sustaining with a fresh water catching system and solar panels (2000 wats).  The family lives here with 3 pets that quickly etched their way into everyone’s hearts.  There is Sha Sha the cat, Taravai and little fluffy Roxy (pictured below with Matt).

Matt and little Roxy

Matt and little Roxy

Much to our surprise, there is one road on the island and it is only a mile long. However, it is beautiful as it stretches from Herve’s property past the church and ends at Marcel’s property.

The only road on Taravai

The only road on Taravai

HIKE AROUND TARAVAI

Valerie told us there about a trail that would take us to the other side of the island where Eduard and Lolo lived.  She said, it would take 30-60 minutes tops. However, we found out later that she had never been on the hike and did not “truly” know how long it should took.

Imagine our surprise when they laughed out loud upon our arrival.  Certainly we were perplexed.  We showed up in shorts, tank tops and flip flops.  Well, truth be told, Matt and I were the only ones in flips, the Argo clan had good walking shoes.  Evidently, the path is usually extremely muddy – which evidently turned out to be an understatement.

We passed the church (see below) and walked through Marcel’s property where he showed us the start of the trail.  He too looked at us all strange and smirked when he saw our shoes.  I’m thinking this can’t be good. After we crossed a small stream, we started through the bushes, hacking away limbs that blocked our path.  If you call it a path.  It was about 1-1.5’ wide, covered in mud, pine needles, and rocks.  We traversed across two mud slides, hopped over collapsed hillsides, jumped over holes and covered ourselves in mud.

Hiking Taravia

Hiking Taravia

This beautiful waterfall kept everything nice and moist, especially since it had just rained.

Little waterfall to cool us off

Little waterfall to cool us off

So close…yet so far away

Although the trail was hard to follow, we did manage to find our way to an isolated beach just in time to wash the mud off.

Beautiful beach found on our hike

Beautiful beach found on our hike

Somehow, we lost the “trail.”  We tried several different directions, but we just couldn’t find our way to Eduard and Lolo’s place.  Most options were too muddy or too dangerous.  We had been hiking for 90 minutes and decided to turn around.  As a result, we never made it all the way to Eduard’s house we had a great time exploring.

TARAVAI CHURCH

A beautiful and majestic church built in the 1800’s is being gently restored.  John is the caretaker and he happily shows all tourists around the church and rectory.  He even let us explore the spiral staircase to the bell station.

Taravai Church

Taravai Church

Rachel took this beautiful photo of her sister, Riana, Becca and I leaving.

Inside Taravai Church

Inside Taravai Church

At the anchorage you can see the church steeple lit up each morning.

Taravia Church from the ancorage

Taravia Church from the anchorage

Across from the church is significant archway made of stone and shells.  It welcomes visitors to the island and leads straight to the church.

Archway introducing the island

Archway introducing the island

VALERIE’S ART

Valerie has an amazing talent to create stunning, intricately detailed art with sand.  She has a wide variety of local sand in various colors and painstakingly designs masterpieces.  She creates unbelievable designs with her sand!

Valerie's Sand Artwork

Valerie’s Sand Artwork

Stay tuned for more adventures on Taravai with our new friends.

A few more fun photos

Roxy in all her glory

Roxy in all her glory

Herve, Valerie and Ariki's front yard

Herve, Valerie and Ariki’s front yard

Herve and Valerie's lush backyard

Herve and Valerie’s lush backyard

Certainly a gorgeous island to visit.  But more importantly, the inhabitants of Taravai make you feel like family.  As a result, cruisers come back again and again.