Category Archives: Gambiers Islands

Including: Mangareva, Temoe, Maria, Marutea, Muru Roa, Fangataufa,

Quarantine Island Style

We have been holed up on our boat for 17 days and have another 9 days to go (due to another quarantine extension).  Of course, that could be extended again based on the number of confirmed cases, but as of now the quarantine ends 15 April.  We decided take a few, small, safe liberties, being that we have been isolated on our boat with no contact with other humans. 

Another cruising boat, HooDoo, with two young Americans (Missy and Yanell) has been anchored near us since they arrived.  They were quarantined on their boat for 23 days during their passage from Galapagos to FP and then again for 14 days once they arrived.  So, we were confident they we no sick.

We moved up to the northern motus in the Gambier archipelago which are all uninhabited.  They are small spits of land with shells, dead coral, bushes, (some debris), and a few palm trees.  Last year, we anchored near three palm island and got some of the best photos of Sugar Shack.  This year we returned to the same motu but had to rename it to two palm island as it lost one of its palms.

Two palm island

Two palm island

Even though we are still in quarantine, we took a few liberties – only because we are far away from the population.  We are able to swim, paddle board and go to the motus to stretch our legs.  For the most part we stay to ourselves, but we have had HooDoo over for cocktails (maintaining the 6’ distance).

Night Out on the Town

Yanell had a great idea to do a beach BBQ.  We were getting cabin fever and needed to get off the boat.  Yanell has a nifty charcoal grill.  We set up camp and tried to maintain the 6’ distance even on the beach.  We went to 2 palm island because there is some coverage with the bushes, a little sandy area, and it is close to the reef.  The bottom photo shows our view. With the outgoing tide you can see more of the reef and in the background you can see where the waves are crashing.

Beach BBQ

Beach BBQ

There are a bazillion crabs on each motu and this one is no exception.  These crabs are curious little guys and are willing to explore anything.  They climbed on top of the cooler, on the grill (see photo below) and on our blanket.  They seemed to like human food too – we gave them the chicken bones.  Why aren’t they in quarantine?

We had a feast with marinated chicken, coleslaw, pasta, hot dogs, and cookies.

Missy and Yanell from Hoodoo

Missy and Yanell from Hoodoo

Parking Lot Issues

When we anchored our dinghy she was in water (see top photo). We are the dinghy in the background.  HooDoo’s dinghy in in the foreground.  However, within a few hours, she was beached on the reef as the tide went out.

The moon is nearly full and the sunset was spectacular.

Just after the sun completely disappeared it produced an amazing purple hue that changed our perspective!  I did not alter these photos at all.  Matt is moving our dinghy back in the water in the top photo.

After our meal, we took flashlights and went to walk out on the reef.  We were lobster hunting.  You have to walk to where the waves break which was about a mile from our motu.  It was really strange being out at night, using the moon beam and our torches to see the critters of the sea.  We did not find any lobster but we had fun looking for them.

Odds and Ends in Quarantine

We had many amazing sunrises.  The sun comes up behind two palm island.

We did a lot of paddle boarding as it is the only exercise we can get right now.  We paddle boarded up to several of the motus and collected lots of sea shells.

Not very productive while in quarantine.  But we have managed to do a few boat projects.  We have no internet which is disappointing, but we do have our satellite communication which is a life saver.

I know it does not seem like we are in quarantine, but we are.  We just have different restrictions.  Like you, we maintain our 6’ distance and where our mask and gloves when near the population.  However, we cannot go to shore except for food, fuel or medical care.  Only one person can go for one hour at a time with prior permission from the local police.  In addition, a government issued form must be completed and carried, with your passport, stating your business and time ashore.  It is very restrictive.  So imagine not being able to leave your boat for weeks at a time.  This is why we moved our boat to a remote part of the archipelago where there are no humans so we have a few more liberties….

Reservations at our Favorite Eatery

We were joined by two other boats later in the week.  Our friends on Sea Jay (Chris and Fred) and our friends on Luci Para 2 (Ivar and Floris).  We made reservations at our favorite restaurant, Two Palm Island for the next day.

Sea Jay and Sugar Shack have dinghies with long drafts, about a meter each.  What does that mean?  It means that it is difficult for us to go in shallow waters because our outboard shaft or the dinghy bottom will hit the coral or the bottom of the sea.  In addition, we have heavy dinghies and outboards.  Sweetie weighs in at about 300-325lbs and McRib (Sea Jay’s dinghy) weighs about 550-600lbs.  So, trying to maneuver them is difficult if the dinghies get beached.

So, we try to anchor the dinghies in an area where we hope there will be water during low tide.  For the past 3 nights we had successfully chosen a place where that worked.  However, tonight, we did not do so good.

The evening started out just beautiful!  We warmed up the grill, started cooking the chicken, dogs and various meats and settled in for a gorgeous sunset.  Top photo (foreground to rear) Floris, Ivar, and Yanell.  Bottom photo (left to right) Fred, Chris, Missy, Matt.

After Dinner Show

It is stunning to watch the sky change into various outfits throughout the setting of the sun.  It provided a beautiful back drop to Sugar Shack.  You can also see the change in tide from the top photo (early in the night) to the bottom photo (just an hour later).

After dinner, a team of people went looking for lobsters.  Yet, again they evaded us.  We built a bonfire and chatted.  Around 800p, we were about ready to leave and realized we had a problem.  McRib and Sweetie were beached with no water under the boats.  Crap!  We looked up low tide and it was at 9p and water did not start to come back up until 10:30-11p.  Well, we settled in for a few more hours, chatting, and stoking the fire.

Just another night in paradise, despite the quarantine.

Underwater Mechanic

Matt wears many hats on the boat.  Engineer, electrician, mechanic, refrigeration, fix it man, chef, etc…Today, he wears his underwater mechanic hat. I will show you how he changes the zincs on our starboard prop while underwater. 

Conditions

We have to have pretty good conditions in order to do this project underwater.  First, little to no wind.  We don’t want the boat swinging around while Matt is trying to “hold on.”  Next, we zero current and shallow waters.  If something is dropped, we want to be able to see it and retrieve it right away.  And lastly, a sunny day with no rain is preferred.

Preparations

There are lots of things needed to prep.  We dig out the hooka.  What is a hooka?  It’s an underwater breathing apparatus that is operated by a 12v charge.  It is similar to scuba gear but does not require a large tank or BCD.  Matt connects the hooka to a battery and it provides oxygen for him to breath while underwater.  We also prep a bucket, tools and spare zincs.

As an underwater mechanic you need something to put your tools and parts in while underwater.  Matt ties a line from the boat to the buck and submerges it underwater.  He can then put his tools and parts inside the bucket thus reducing the risk of losing them to the sea.

Here is Matt all suited up, the hooka connected to the port engine and the bucket before and after submersion.

Preparing to go underwater

Preparing to go underwater

The Prop

We have two volvo folding props.  We can change the small zincs without having to disassemble and remove the entire prop.  However, in order to get to the larger zinc we have to disassemble and remove three small 1” screws, 3 axels, 3 zincs, 3 blades and the hub just to get access to the large zinc.  Yep, all underwater.

The Process

Our specialist, the underwater Mechanic, gets started.

Matt working on prop

Matt working on prop

First, Matt removes the first small screw, places it in the bucket and then removes the first axel. Middle photo Matt uses the end of the alan wrench to push the axel out. Once these two items are removed the first blade will come off.  Great!

On to the 2nd blade.  Using the same method our underwater mechanic uses the allen wrench to remove the screw, then the axel and then the blade.  This looks easy peasy!

I spoke too soon.  Matt removed the screw (top photo) and used the allen wrench to try to remove the axel.  The first two just look a little tapping.  After several minutes matt starts “jamming” it in with more force and still the axel does not budge (look at his white knuckled fist on lower photo)

He goes to his tool chest for a different tool.  Searching in a black bucket underwater can’t be easy.

Stuck Axel

He grabbed several tools trying to get the axel out – on both sides.  Even using the rubber hammer on each tool he still couldn’t get it out.  He even tried using a clamp and that did not work. Imagine how fun it it so try to hammer something with the water preventing you from using full force.  Poor thing did this for well over 45 minutes banging his fingers several times.

He was relentless on this axel which would not budge. 

After two leg cramps and exhausting all thoughts on how to remove it, he decided to try another time.  So, he put everything back on and called it an exhausting day.

Second Time is Charm

Matt put on his underwater mechanic hat a week later with better success.  He found a spare axel and started with the troubled axel first.  Coming at it fresh, with a better tool allowed him to finally remove the stubbornly stuck axel and prop.  The other two were fairly easy as they were last time.

He brought all the pieces on board to clean and reassemble.  The top photo shows you three things.  The green arrow points to the hub or the main part of the prop.  The blue arrow shows you an axel and the red arrow points to the used large zinc that is being replaced.  The bottom two photos show new and old zincs (large and small).

Matt cleaned up the hub, removed all barnacles, growth and corrosion.   The middle, left photo shows you how small the screws are that Matt has to handle underwater.  The bottom left shows you the size of the axels and the prop blades.  The bottom right photo shows you the numbers that Matt has to match up to the blades. The #1 blade goes in the #1 spot.  Keep in mind, this is all underwater!

After everything was cleaned and assembled in the cockpit he went back underwater to finish the assembly.  The large zinc first, then the hub, then blade #1, axel #1, and screw #1.  Once secured, he repeats the process for blades 2 and 3. 

Project complete!

Stefan and Manu

Nirvana in the Middle of Chaos

We had been quarantined on our boat now for 2 weeks.  We have another 10 days to go as the FP government extended the quarantine for the country.  There are 37 cases hundreds of miles away from us.  Currently there still are zero confirmed cases in the Gambiers.  However, despite that good news, we still are living in about 600 square feet of livable space.  We are still anchored in front of Totegegie (the airport island).  So how did we find nirvana in the middle of all this chaos?

My friend Stefan is a local who I met last year during the Gambier Cultural Festival.  He carves the pearl shells and makes amazing jewelry using pears and the oyster shells.  He normally lives on Mangareva.  However, he moved his entire family to a remote island called Puaumu which is one of the northern most islands in Gamblers.  There are no inhabitants on this island.

Stefan had invited us to visit his little piece of nirvana but we wanted to wait until the full two weeks had passed. Even though we are still technically in quarantine, we thought we could take the risk by exercising precautions (staying 6’ away, no hugging or touching).

Setting up Camp

We could see a small metal structure as we approached the island.  Interesting enough they did not use this structure at all as it was pretty run down.

Camping during quarantine

Camping during quarantine

Stefan had the marinated chicken on the grill when we arrived.  His wife Manu had a feast set up on the table.  They had large tarp with two 3-people tents set up underneath.  There were 10 of them living here for the past 3 weeks.  A small kitchen/dining room set up on the beach overlooking the turquoise water lapping the shore.

Stefan's Campsite

Stefan’s Campsite

The table was packed with food including a rice, pasta, chicken, poison cru (fish), sashimi, and banana bread.  The fish was caught the day before (bottom left photo) and was used for the sashimi and poison cru.  The banana bread was baked between leaves on the grill and was scrumptious.  The chicken had been marinated for a few hours and was incredibly juicy.  Everything was so tasty.  I cannot believe the went through so much trouble for lunch for us.  Keep in mind they have very limited supplies and resources as they are living on a deserted island in quarantine and yet they shared what they had with us.

Exploring Nirvana

After lunch Stefan showed us how to fish using natural resources.  All of the islands are covered in hermit crabs.  Millions if not billions of them crawl around each island.  He showed us how to lure a crab out.  First you whistle to it and it slowly comes out.  Yep, you hold it close to your mouth and whistle any toon and out it comes like a genie from a bottle.   You patiently wait for him to get mostly out and then quickly grab his body and slowly pull him out.  Gentle tug, you cannot pull too hard as you will rip his tail part off and that is the part you need to fish.

You tear the tail part off the crab and feed the crab to the sea (fish).  Attach the tail part to a small hook, which is attached to a string which is attached to a large tree limb.  Toss the hook into the shore and reel in your catch.  This entire process yielded us this beautiful trigger fish in less than 2 minutes.  We tossed him back as he is not edible.

We enjoyed a nice leisurely walk around the island which actually has sand (not coral and rocks) on the shore.

Beautiful beaches of Puaumu

Beautiful beaches of Puaumu

This little nirvana is a bird refuge with lots of baby birds.

Bird Refuge

Bird Refuge

When we returned, the ladies were watching a movie (yep on a mac, in a tent, in a deserted island).

Watching movies under the tent

Watching movies under the tent

It was hard to say goodbye, but they sure showed us with true nirvana is like during this time of chaos.

Stefan and Manu

Stefan and Manu