Category Archives: Gambiers Islands

Including: Mangareva, Temoe, Maria, Marutea, Muru Roa, Fangataufa,

Harvesting French Polynesian Pearls

Pearl lovers will be intrigued by how French Polynesian pearls are harvested.  Last year, we learned a lot when we visited Dada’s pearl farm on the east side of Mangareva (see post).  This year I organized another pearl farm tour with a fresh batch of cruisers.  Lucky for us, they were harvesting the pearls so it was perfect timing.

We were anchored in the far NE corner of the Gambiers archipelago – near an island called Puaumu.  We had cruisers from 4 other boats join us on Sugar Shack where we made a short motor to the north side of Totegegie which is closer to the pearl farm.  From there we jumped in 2 dinghies and made our way across the lagoon to the pearl farm which was about 1.6 nm away.

Dada and his brother own the house (or shack) above the water, but they lease the space in the water.  Yep, they have to pay rent to have this facility in the water.  In addition, they rent the space where they farm their pearls which is about 3-5 miles away from their processing facility.

Dada's Pearl Farm

Dada’s Pearl Farm

Dada is an excellent teacher, tour guide, and host.  He speaks English wonderfully and has been featured in several magazines. 

The Process

Dada grows some of his oysters from babies.  However, he also has to supplement his stock by purchasing young oysters from “growers.”  These young oysters are placed in round netting in shallow water so they can be monitored as they grow.  After 3/5 months they are considered mature enough for the next phase.

Harvesting begins next.  The divers retrieve the nets and bring them to the processing facility (blue house over the water).  They are pressure washed and then expertly opened a smidge where a divider is placed.  Dada had two people doing this process.  You have to be very careful not to damage the oyster.  There is only a very small area on the oyster that can be opened.

Opening and inserting the dividiers

Opening and inserting the dividers

The prepped oysters are then moved to the “seeders.”  Dada’s seeders are actually stuck in China due to the virus so he had to rent seeders from another pearl farmer.  Harvesting is very specific to timing.  If Dada could not find seeders, he would stand to risk losing his harvest.

Harvesting

Harvesting is a meticulous job.  The workers arrive around 0800 and work until the days harvesting is done (usually around 5p-6p).  They work 5 days a week which doesn’t sound bad, but it is exhausting in its perfection.

The seeder takes the oyster shell with a divider in it and places it in a clamp.  Using long, skinny tools, they exam the oyster and check for sickness and colors. If the oyster is healthy, they will insert a nucleous to start the pearl process.  The nucleous is made of shell and comes in various sizes.  The nucleous’ are the little white balls in lower photo.  If you zoom in on the top photo you can see the pearl in the oyster’s pocket.

Insertion of nucleous & nucleous

Insertion of nucleous & nucleous

The divider is then removed and the shell is placed in a bucket.  Once the bucket is full, another worker comes in and ties the oyster back to the pocket nets and prepares it for the submersion process.

Seeding the Pearls

There were two seeders.  One was doing the initial seed (with the young oysters) and the other was doing a second seed.  The second seed removes the nucleous which is now covered in a pearl outer shell and inserts another nucleous the same size as the original pearl.  The pearls on the black cloth are sellable pearls.  The three blue buckets represent varying degrees of quality of pearls.  The white balls on the lower photo are nuclei waiting to be added.  A seeder can harvest between 700-900 pearls a day.  Imagine that tedious work over and over and over for 5 days a week, 10 months a year.

Tools of the Trade for the seeder

Tools of the Trade for the seeder

Oysters inside colors start to become more vibrant with the sun.  The colors of the shell are indicative of the colors of the pearl.  The 7-pocket nets with the newly seeded oysters are labeled with colored thread, and submerged 4-5 meters under the water for 18 months.  They are taken out every 3 months to be washed and cleaned to ensure healthy growth.  Typically, the oysters will only be out of the water for 45 minutes.

Using Every Part of the Oyster During Harvesting

Every single part of the oyster is used.  The pearl, the oyster (meat), the shell.  The meat is sold to locals who eat it. The shells are sold in bulk to buyers (usually China) who make buttons and jewelry.  The top photo is a bag full of shells being shipped to China.  The bottom photo are the broken shells that will be sold to different buyers.

Inside of the Oyster

Dada showed us the inside of the oyster which has 5 parts.  Top photo:  1 is the sack where the pearl grows.  It excretes the stuff that coats the nuclei and creates the pearl.  2: is the part of the oyster that grows from the inside of the shell to the outside.  It allows the oyster to “stick” on to other things like coral or rocks.  3: is the main part of the oyster that is edible raw.  Yep, I tried it!  4: is the part of the oyster that can be edible if prepared properly (we did not eat this part).  5: is the pearl.

Inside the oyster shell

Tools of the Trade for the seeder

The Oyster Business

Dada’s expenses as a pearl farmer:

  • Pays Tahiti rent for the water space under his pearl processing house (annual)
  • Tahiti is paid rent for the water where his oysters are placed inside the lagoon (annual)
  • $2500 per seeder (monthly
  • Transportation (to and from China), housing, food, and daily transport (annual)
  • Local workers including divers, boat drivers, pressure washers, and cleaners/openers
  • Shipping of pearls back to Tahiti to be evaluated.

Sure is an expensive to run a pearl farm.  Especially when you consider that only 40-50% of the oysters produce a sellable pearl and only 20-25% produce “quality” pearls.  Usually they sell their pearls in bulk to China or Japan which reduces the price even further. 

Right now, Dada’s pearl farm is generating 60,000 pearls.  Normally, he will produce 100,000 pearls a year so things are tight due to the virus.

Pearls are judged on their color.  French Polynesian pearls are known for their dark colors.  Deep blues, greens and purples.  The light-colored pearls are not desirable.  The pearl is also ranked by shine / luster and quality (lack of indents, marks, lines).  The final evaluation is the thickness of the pearl.  The distance from the outside to the nucleous.  This is done with a machine and not the naked eye. 

Makes you appreciate your pearls a little more.

An Abundance of Junk Pearls

Dada had invited us to visited him at his home in Rikitea.  So, a few weeks after our pearl farm visit, we met him onshore.  He had bags and bags and bags of pearls all over the place.  Most were considered “junk pearls” and are not sellable. But to us they were lovely.  He brought 5 or 6 bags of the junk pearls for us to come through.  There were thousands of pearls to go through and it was over whelming.

Bags and bags of discarded pearls

Bags and bags of discarded pearls

We had Dada turn a few of our pearls into jewelry which allowed us to watch yet another step in the life of a pearl. 

  • First, he expertly reviews he pearl to determine where to put the pendant hook. Usually he covers up an imperfection.
  • Next the pearl is placed in the grips and a thin drill is slowly guided to the desired location.
  • The pendant hook or earring backing is placed in the hole to ensure the depth is correct.
  • The pendant hook or earring backing is glued into place.
  • Vice grips are secured around the pearl to let the glue dry.
  • 5 hours later the jewelry is completed.
Dada creating some jewelry

Dada creating some jewelry

The group from left to right: Chris, Neils, Lynette, Me, Dada, Elainise, Missy, Yanell, Floris, Ivar, Fred and Jacques.

Full Moon Discoveries During Low Tide

We anchored off the north side of the Totegegie island (airport).  It was perfect timing with a full moon and low tide to go make some discoveries.  The tide has been incredibly low over the last 7-10 days.  We have never seen it this low.  We were wondering how we were going to get Sweetie to shore, as we looked over the dried-out reef.  Lucky for us we found a small path, paddled for a while, then walked the dinghy closer.  Normally this is all under water.  I am standing on shore looking back on Sweetie and Sugar Shack.  The bottom photo is Matt walking out toward the water’s edge.

Low tide exposure

Low tide exposure

We circled to the windward side of the island to see what we discoveries we could find.  With the water receded back so far lots of sea critters are exposed for my curious eyes to find. 

The coral and lava rocks are exposed once the water recedes.  Lots of little tide pools are left behind holding what little wild life can survive in them.

Underwater Discoveries Exposed by the Low Tide

Exposed reef

Exposed reef

Lots of clams of all sizes were gasping for air.  Well, truth be told I don’t know if they breathe, but they were all closed up and unhappy looking (top two photos below).  Normally, they have their fat, beautiful lips sticking out (bottom photo) when they are underwater.  It was a lot easier to see how they wedge themselves into the rocks when they are out of water.  Gives a new meaning to “clam bake.”

Clams baking in the sun

Clams baking in the sun

Some discoveries should be left undiscovered.  The sea cucumber manages to survive outside of the water.  The lower one was showing me how he does his “business” – no really, I could have done without seeing that!

Sea cucumbers

Sea cucumbers

We found dozens of baby sharks (white tip, black tip and maybe lemons) swimming in a large tide pool.  Poor things were barely swimming in the water.

Find the sharks

Find the sharks

A few more discoveries…a fighting crab, floating trees, and blue parrot fish trying to make it until the tide returns.

The most beautiful discoveries were the coral.  Usually you have to light these guys up to capture their color and intricate designs.  However, out of the water, it much easier to see and capture.

A few more pretty corals making an appearance.

Sugar Shack in Puaumu

Parte in Puaumu with Polynesians

Puaumu is in the NE corner of the Gambiers. We had to cross over unchartered areas with a look out on the bow to keep the boat clear of coral bommies.  We arrived on a beautiful, calm day with no swell, light winds and perfect conditions.  Not many cruisers or locals visit this small, private, yet pristine island.

Puaumu in Gambiers

Puaumu in Gambiers

The first few days at this anchorage were just glorious.  We had the entire bay to ourselves and the water was like a glassy mirror of the sky.  The island of Puaumu is in the shape of a “C.”  The left side of the island or the north side is owned by my friend Stefan and his family.  The right side or the south is owned by another family.  Stefan and his family stayed here for 2 weeks during quarantine.  We had the pleasure of visiting them by dinghy and enjoyed a huge, delicious luncheon feast.

Playing in Puaumu

Smooth waters are just perfect for paddle boarding.  Typically, I paddle board on my knees or butt, but with these conditions I ventured on to my feet.  It was shaky at first, a little bob and weaving going on, but I finally got the hang of it.  Matt and I paddled around the anchorage, checked on the anchor, and admired the many fish around the coral heads.

There was one coral bommie directly under the boat.  Well, let’s be clear, it was not under the boat when we anchored.  When the wind changed, we shifted over the bommie.  As you can see, Matt is checking it out and we have clearance – even during low tide.

Matt broke out the drone and captured some amazing shots of Sugar Shack during sunset.  The dark splotchy marks in the water are coral bommies.

Sugar Shack at Puaumu -drone shot

Sugar Shack at Puaumu -drone shot

These are amazing shots too.  The top one shows the Pacific (lower portion of photo), Puaumu and the lagoon.  Sugar Shack at peace by herself and Mangareva in the background.  The center photo has Puaumu on the far right (off camera) and shows the furthest NE motu, Tepapuri in the background.  We can’t bring the big boat to that island, but we have explored it by dinghy.

THANKING WHO?

We had invited Stefan to stay onboard Sugar Shack for the weekend.  In part, as a thank you for hosting us for lunch a few weeks ago.  Stefan, his wife Manu and their friend Popo (or Nani) came by fishing boat Saturday afternoon and stayed until Sunday evening.  It truly was our intention to host them, to cook for them and to show them a marvelous time.  However, they came with boxes of food and drink to last well over a week!

For dinner, Stefan cooked 6 lbs of Mahi Mahi, chicken and sausage.  Plus, we had beet salad, fresh bread and salad.  For dessert I made avocado chocolate pudding which turned out divine.

Stefan Cooking up a storm

Stefan Cooking up a storm

Sunset was enjoyed at the bow of the boat.  Our guests had trepidations about the trampoline, but we eventually got them to walk on it.  Each square inch can hold up to 200lbs so there was no concern of breakage (no concern on our part). 

The next morning, I made blueberry pancakes, but Stefan insisted on cooking omelets for everyone as well.  In addition, we had cheesy bread, homemade guava preserves to go on more fresh bread, starfruit, and fresh squeezed juice.

We enjoyed a day of fun in the sun, swimming and playing cards.  Lunched was followed by more fresh fish on the grill, fresh bread, fruit, sushi which is actually called poison cru.

Stefan taking a giant leap

Stefan taking a giant leap

Super fun weekend turned out to be Stefan, Manu and Popo spoiling us with cooking, cleaning, and a few days of complete fun.

Coconut Hunting

On the small islands you have to make due with what you are given.  In some cases that is hunting for coconuts, but only on the islands or motus where there is no coconut harvesting of copra.  A coconut is handy for coconut water, coconut milk, coconut cake, and plain ole coconut.  I bet you didn’t know the little coconut could be so useful?  We scavenged for a long stick and started hunting.  Once we find a few green coconuts, we use our machete to hack into them and capture the yummy coconut water inside.

Coconut Hunting

Coconut Hunting

Beach BBQ on Puaumu

Several of our friends decided to join us in the anchorage.  After our Polynesian friends left, 4 boats joined us.  A little cruiser party in Puaumu.  One day we had a beach BBQ on the corner of the island.  It was Hoodoo (Yanell and Missy), Sea Jay (Chris and Fred), Kalea (Jaques and Elensie), and Storm Along (Lynette and Nils).

Beach BBQ

Beach BBQ

We had some gorgeous sunset shots.

After our tasty dinner, we sat around the fire chatting and enjoying the good company.

Puaumu is an absolutely pristine island with beautiful beaches, turquoise waters, and perfect views of sunset.