Category Archives: Fiji

Manta Ray Escapades

One of the main reasons we wanted to come to the Astrolabe Reef was to see the manta rays.  We had heard that there is a “cleaning station” and a good area where they feed near Vurolevu island.  This is a mere 1.5nm from Yabu where we are anchored.  

What is a “cleaning station”? A Manta Ray Cleaning Station is a location where fish, sharks, and mantas gather to get a regular hygiene check by parasitic copepods and a variety of small cleaner wrasse. Mantas spend some hours of the day here to get their gills, and skin cleaned.

Vurolevu Island and the Manta Rays

The next morning we head to Vurolevu island with the hopes of finding a few mantas.  As we approach the northern tip and slow the dinghy down, we immediately spot a large manta in the water.  Sweet.  In I go!

There is a nice current here with the water flow delivering delicious plankton into the mouths of these gentle giants.  I enjoy the alone time with 2 medium sized mantas (wing span of about 2-2.5 meters).

Within 15 minutes I am joined by 3 other tourists and decide to head to where Matt is which is about 300 yards from me.  SCORE!  He found the cleaning station.  Check out all the little fish having a field day with these mantas!  They swim around, under, and inside the mantas.  Yes, they swim inside their mouth and come out their gills!  Silly or brave, not sure which?

Manta Rays will jump out of the water to rid themselves of parasites (if they are not near a cleaning station).  They also jump out of the water when they want to impress a lady and or to simply play.

A Cleaning Station

There was no current over where we were swimming, so we could literally just hang out and admire these beauties!  Even though these animals are ginormous, they are not dangerous.  Some of the manta rays that we saw here had a wing span of 4.5-5 meters!  We are talking really, really huge!

But, mantas are harmless and can’t hurt swimmers.  We have found them to be very curious creatures and will often swim up next to and below you if you stay calm and still enough.  They really are delicate animals with no aggressive behaviors and are known to not be predatory in nature.

What do manta rays eat?

Mantas are filter feeders feeding on microscopic plankton near the surface of the water.  They glide back and forth high current areas gathering plankton. A manta ray eats 19,200,000 pieces of plankton every week – that’s a lot of plankton!

Did you know that the closest relative to a manta ray is a shark?  Unlike sharks, mantas don’t have teeth.  They sieve plankton out of the water using a row of tiny plates in their mouth, which they funnel in as they swim. 

One manta came so close to me that I actually saw him looking at me – honestly, he was checking me out!

I wanted to show you how very large these creatures were, but Matt was so far away that it is hard to get a perspective.  And, he happened to go below with a juvenile, not a full size manta.

Hurt Mantas

The natural predators for manta rays are sharks and whales.  Despite their large size and fast speeds, they do get hurt.

We saw several mantas with broken wings and bites out of their tail area.  Their wings naturally flow seamlessly to a fine point, but two of the mantas had their wing tips bent down.  It did not seem to slow them down.  Another two mantas had semi circle bites out of their left tail area.

Did you know?

  • Manta rays have the largest brain to size ratio of any cold-blooded fish?  
  • They have huge brains – the biggest of any fish! 
  • Believed to be as smart and highly cognitive as dolphins, primates, and elephants.
  • Studies have found that their brains are especially developed for learning, problem solving and communicating.
  • Some scientist believe that mantas can recognize their reflection, a sign of self-awareness.

The events from this blog occurred in early September 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  We visit many island near the Astrolabe reef in our last blog post.

Namara island

Astrolabe Reef & Gnarly Gnuggets

The Astrolabe Reef runs along Kadavu’s southern shore then arcs north-east past Ono and Buliya Islands.  There are about a dozen islands inside the Kadavu lagoon including Kadavu, Dravuni, Yanuyanu, Namara, Qasibale, Yauku Levu, Buliya, Yabu, Vurolevu, Galoa, and Ono.

The top little island is Dravenui, the 3rd island is where we found the manta rays (see our next blog), and the arrow is where we anchored at Ono.

After our 40nm motor-sail from Mbengga, we arrive at the northern Herald Pass.  We thought we might stop at Dravuni Island where there is a large village that receives small cruise ships once a month. But the weather and waves would have made this an uncomfortable anchorage so we just did a “drive-by.”

Namara Island

The neighboring island of Namara was our next stop. There is a reef that surrounds this island teaming with sea life. Sugar Shack found a nice sandy spot to drop the hook and enjoyed the island to herself.

Namara island

Namara island

It is a small and with very limited human touches.  On the south side where we anchored, the only proof of humanity is a small bamboo bar and fence. We went on a short walk across the island to the other side and up and over the ridge.

I love the contrasting colors of the water. Turquoise near the reef and royal blue inside the lagoon.

Namara Island

Namara Island

 

Yabu Island

On the way from Namara island to Yabu island we came across a group of birds enjoying a nice swim.  Usually they fly away as we approach, but this group of birds were fearless.

Yabu Island is uninhabited and is a wildlife sanctuary and has tons and tons of boobies and other species.  Technically, we cannot go ashore until we do sevusevu on the island that claims ownership over Yabu.  So, we head to Buliya where the chief lives in the main village. 

Buliya is a 2nm dinghy ride from Yabu.  Technically, we could have easily brought the big boat over there, but since we were already anchored in a lovely spot, we decided to take the water car.

Buliya

We arrive late in the morning and are greeted by none other than the chief of the village.  This is totally unheard of.  Normally, you are greeted by the Torangi-ni-koro (the headman) who brings you to the chief.   Thank goodness I was in my sulu!

He walks us over to a shady spot just off the beach that has two long boats (pangas) turned upside down.  Several men are sitting or laying down on top of them enjoying the cool breeze on this hot day.

We do a quick sevusevu and enjoy a few minutes of chat with the locals.  They gift us with loads of papayas and we enjoy a long walk on a beautiful sandy beach before heading back to Yadu.

Buliya Island

Buliya Island

Now that we are “officially” welcomed into the village, we go ashore to Yadu which googlemaps has down as “gnarly gnuggets” a religious destination.  

Super pretty spit of sand peppered with purple rocks!

They surely have this wrong as this island belongs to the bazillion birds that live here!

Vurolevu Island

The main reason we came to Yabu is to be close to the area where the mantas are.  They swim off the northern tip of a small island called Vurolevu in the mornings.  Stay tuned for our next blog for my updates on the mantas.

The events from this blog occurred in early September 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  In our last blog we visit one of the most beautiful bays in Fiji, Mbengga, did you miss it?

Foil Boarding: Teaching an Old Dog New Tricks

Matt has been “eye-balling” kite and foil board gear for years and years.  In fact, when we lived in Austin, Matt bought a training kite to learn to kite in 2014.  As you might recall, Matt has been a water bunny for decades.  He was a water-skier, knee boarder, in high school, then jumped to wakeboarding, bought a ski boat in 1993 and continued doing all sorts of crazy tricks and stunts on the wake board. He moved on to surfing behind the ski boat in around 2004/5 when it became evident that the falls were taking longer to recover from.

Fast forward to today.  Matt tried foiling last year but did not have much success.  The board and foil were set up for experts and he was just beginning.  But he had fun trying and was not dissuaded!

Foiling

Foiling is a challenging and dangerous sport.  You have to be able to surf, then foil, then fly using the wing. There is the board, usually between 4’.5”-5’.5’, the mast that connects the foil to the board, the back wing which is called the stabilizer and the front wing which is called the foil”.  The piece between the foil and stabilizer is called a fuselage.  And of course, you have the actual “wing” that helps you fly.  This is just for show, I pulled it off the internet 🙂

Step 1: Getting up and Staying Up

We hook up with our friend Chris on Sea Glub who has a foil board. Matt and Chris talk about getting up, going slow, learning the motion of the board and just moving forward (all before foiling).  We use “Sweetie” to pull Matt.  Getting up is easy for Matt as it is similar to surfing behind a boat.  First, he is on his knees, then is slowly stands, and then he is off – surfing on a small board with the foil underwater.

After a few rises, we switch to let Chris have a go at it and then Matt is back in the water.  This time he is confronted with a few waves from passing boats.

Step 2: Tapping

Matt starts to play with the foil by tapping the water.  He goes up a wee bit, then down, up, then down, rinse and repeat.  He is testing the foil, finding the sweet spot and trying to get a feel for the center of balance when the board is up on the foil.  You can see in the below photos that the board is starting to come off the water exposing the mast of the foil.

Step 3: Foiling

Just as the sun starts to set, we get some good photos of Matt foiling.  It was long and it wasn’t always pretty (bad form), but he was up and foiling on day 1!

All in all, it was an outstanding first go!  Matt is hooked and eager to try again soon. 

With all that said, don’t get me wrong, this was difficult even for Matt.  He had some epic falls that qualified for the adjective “Christine’d it!”  You have to be very careful when you fall as the wings on the foil are ridiculously sharp and can do some major damage.  They are so sharp that kiters call them underwater knives!

Adding the Wing

The next step, which was very premature, but worth a try, is to add the wing kite.  Our friend Chris brought it out to the beach to give it a try.  We did not add it to the foiling as it was much too windy day for the combination.  You can see how strong it is as it lifts Matt off the ground with ease.

Practice with the Kite (wing)

The wing is unpacked and ready to play! Matt blows up his new kite and places with it on the bow to get a feel for how he needs to use the wing to propel himself while on the water.

After Matt practiced using our friend Chris’s wing on the beach, he decided to take his new wing out for a spin using his SUP.  Why do you ask did he try the SUP over the new foil board?  Stability.  The SUP is much bigger, wider, and far more stable than the foil board.

It was a light wind day which gave Matt an opportunity to try to propel himself side to the wind.  (The first try he went dead down which is the easiest, but he is learning).  I think part of the difficulty was that he was on his knees and he could not properly turn the kite without getting it in the water…but what do I know?

A week or two later Matt got the foil board out.  He wanted to try to stand on it using a SUP paddle. But it was just too unstable.  He went upwind to get some space from the boat and tried to balancing on his knees first.  

That is when another foiler came by showing off….

Big Purchase From the States

Matt decided to pull the trigger and purchase a foil kite package from Kiteboarding.com.  After much discussion with many other kiters he decided to purchase the following:

  • A demo North 2022 Seek Foil board
  • North 2022 Nova-Wing Size 5 kite
  • North 2022 sonar carbo Eidition (CF85)
  • Sonar Reflect Front Wing 1850R
  • Sonar Medium Aspect Front Wing (MA1200)
  • Mystic 2022 Start wing foil board bag
  • Helmet
  • Life vest
  • Tow rope (to practice towing behind the dinghy)

We had it all shipped to Fiji Freight along with some other items that we thought we “needed to have.”  Wow, Fiji Freight provides excellent customer service! They are super knowledgeable and very reasonably priced.  We had 5 packages sent and the arrived, cleared customs and were delivered to us in Port Denarau within 5 days!

Matt could not wait to assemble the board!  We got back to the boat and he started right away.

Stay tuned for more training adventures as Matt learns how to master this new sport!

The events from this blog occurred in mid-August 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  Did you catch our last blot post where we 2 out of 3 races in the Musket Cove Regatta 2022?