Category Archives: Fiji

Fiji Paradise

Fiji has over 300 islands ranging from the very remote Lao group to the populated Viti Levu and Vanua Levu.  There are plenty of picture perfect, white sandy beaches, endless coral reefs, pristine forests and world-renowned dive sites.

Fiji is comprised of five unique archipelagos:

  • Viti Levu (largest island) and North West islands
    • Mamanuca and Yasawa’s are strung out over 80 nautical miles
  • Kadavu and Beqa
    • Beqa, Kadavu, Tavuki, Vatulele, Great Astralobe Reef and Lagoon
  • Central Waters: Vanua Levu and the Lomaiviti Group
    • Vanua Levu, Bligh Waters, Koro Sea, Makogai, Wakaya, Koro, Ovalau, Batiki
  • Taveuni and the Ringold Isles
    • Tavenui, Ringold Isles, Rabi, Qamea, Laucala, Matei
  • Eastern Archipelago (Lao group)
    • Nothern Lao, Southern Lao and Eastern Lao

The 300 islands are spread over 200,000 square miles and they cross over the international date line even though there is only one date/time across all of Fijian waters.  What’s funny is while navigating close to the date line, our digital charts freak out and always mis-calculate until we cross over the date line.

The two largest islands are Viti Levu (which has the nation’s capital, Suva) and Vanua Levu.  Most of the islands are volcanic in origin and most of the summits of mountains have distinct craters (even though activity has long since ceased).  Fijians own more than 80% of the lands in Fiji. However, it is not held by individuals, but rather by small tribal units.

Sugar is grown near the plains and lowlands of the north-west of Viti Levu and is their largest export..  They also export coconut oil, pearls, and copra. 

The Fijians

Only 100 of the 300 islands are inhabited. Fiji has many, many nationalities and is rich and diverse in cultures.  The population is near 800,000 with about 49% being Fijians, 46% being Fijian Indians and the remaining 5% being Europeans (most from New Zealand and Australia), Chinese, Roumans, and other Pacific Islanders.

Overall, Fijians have been truly the nicest and friendliest group of people we’ve ever met.  They stop everything to greet you with “Bula.”  And its not a softly spoken, under your breath “Bula” it is a loud, almost shout “Bula” coming from the heart.  Whether you are walking down the street, in a store, on the bus, or in a small town – big and small, young and old will greet you with a wide toothy grin and a “Bula.”

It was only 50 years ago that Fiji gained its independence from Britain (October 1970) who had control for over 96 years.  In 1987 Fiji was declared a republic and in 1992 the first elections were held when Fiji returned to an elected parliament.

Rich in Life

We spent most of our time in the outer islands where the villages are small (less than 100 people) and life is simple. Most do not have tables, chairs, utensils, appliances, or modern amenities. Several of the villagers are missing many teeth, but they are trim, happy, and healthy.  They eat what nature provides for them, they grow casava and taro root (both starches like potatoes), the enjoy lots of fresh fruits (bananas, papayas, mangos, breadfruit, soursop) and freshly caught fish, octopus, lobster, and crab.  Rich in life.

This is one of our host families.  The headman assigns a host family to us each time we visit the outer islands.  This family is in Fulaga (Lucy and Nico).

This is inside their modest home.  We are sitting in their living room, the kitchen is in the background and they have a small separate room to sleep.

Each Fijian encounter is a unique and blessed experience.  They are truly happy to meet you, know you, and share their world.  They might not have much, but they will offer you what they do have. 

Our last blog shares our arrival and all the arrival procedures in Fiji.  Events from this blog occurred the end of June.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.

Welcome to Fiji! Bula!

We made it to Fiji in a little less than 12 days!  It is green and super pretty as we round the corner to our destination of Savusavu.

First time into a new country requires a lot of paperwork to “clear in.”  We arrive Savusavu on the island of Vanua Levu on Friday at 10:30am.  By the time we are safely moored on a mooring with Waitui Marina it is closer to 11:00am. Our agent and the marina coordinate the 3 sets of officials that have to get us through the formalities.  I will walk you through it just so you can get a “taste” of what it is like for us.  Keep in mind that Fiji is truly one of the most straight forward and simple process that we have been through in all of the dozen or so countries we have cleared in.

Savusavu has 3 marinas.  We are staying at Waitui Marina on one of their mooring balls.

Marina Waitui

Marina Waitui

The marina has been around for over 60 years and is a work in progress.  The people are first rate and super friendly! 

Waitui Marina Fiji

Waitui Marina Fiji

Health Officials

The first officials to come to the boat are the health officials.  They administer covid tests to ensure we are “clean.”  After a stick to the brain, we get the all clear.  Then we are handed (2) invoices.  One is for $40F (which is about $20 U.S.) per person for the covid tests.  We pay this to the marina and the nurse picks it up later.  The other invoice is for $163.50F ($82 U.S.) which has to be paid at the hospital which is 1.2 miles from the marina.  Then we can either email the paid receipt to the nurse or we can drop it off at the hospital court office (we emailed it).  Once we email the paid receipt, they email us our negative covid certificate.

The marina comes to pick them up and take them to their next boat.  A few minutes later, Customs and Immigration are delivered to us.

Customs and Immigration

Two people come for customs and immigration.  We have to provide a lot of paperwork to them including our boat registration, passports, exit paperwork from French Polynesia, vaccine cards, negative test. C2-C entry form, crew list, and we sign a few more forms.  They stamp our passports (sweet) and tell us that we need to go to Customs in a few days to pick up our cruising permit.  We are charged $40F because they came to our boat during their lunch break (we did not have a choice in the matter).

The marina picks them up and whisks them to their next boat and then they bring biosecurity.

Biosecurity

Biosecurity is responsible for ensuring we do not bring anything “illegal” into the country.  Are you thinking guns, pets, weapons?  Well that too, but they are looking for honey, seeds, shells, feathers, meats, produce.  Yep, all of that is against the law to bring into Fiji!  We pass with flying colors, mostly because it is Friday afternoon and I think he wants to call it a day.  He gives us an invoice and tells us to go to his office to pay $85F ($43 U.S.).          

The Race

It is now close to 2:45pm and all of the offices close at 4:00pm.  We have to go to shore, find a bank, and pay all of the invoices.    The race is on!  Lucky for us, Fiji makes it easy in Savusavu.  There is only one main road and everything can be found in the small town.

We find the bank, go to a market to buy some drinks (mostly to get change) as the offices want exact payment.  We first hoof it to the hospital as it is the furthest. The guy was super nice and made us laugh.

We manage to hit all the offices in time and then we reward ourselves with some cold drinks.

The next few days are spent exploring the town, finding the fresh market (see photo below), and visiting with a few friends who we met in French Polynesia.

We had drinks and snacks at the neighboring marina, Copra Shed Marina.  Our friends on Major Tom (Anki and Sivert) joined us for many a cocktail.

Can you guess where I am?

View from the boat opposite the marina.

They are building a new marina which they hope to be ready before cyclone season (in 4 months).

New Marina in Progress

New Marina in Progress

They have lots of hot springs in Fiji.  Some of them are right next to the mooring fields. 

Hot Springs

Hot Springs

In our last blog we transit across the Pacific from French Polynesia to Fiji.  Our blogs run 10-12 weeks behind schedule.  This blog occurred mid-June, 2022.