Category Archives: Fiji

Mbengga aka Beqa

Mbengga: Say that 5 times fast!

Mbengga is also known as Beqa but it is pronounced “menga.”  It is a mere 10 kilometers from the main land of Viti Levu and is surrounded by a large reef.  Once you enter the reef there are actually two islands in the lagoon including Yanuca and Mbengga.  So how did we get here?

We finally pulled up the anchor from our lovely sandy spit near Malolo Island.  We had been in the same spot for a little over 2 weeks and it was well beyond time we leave.  There was a distinct possibility that our anchor grew roots, but as it turned out, only our chain and bridle had growth.  Nothing a quick pressure wash and scrub won’t cure and she was shiny and clean again. As we headed out the pass we were joined by a beautiful pod of dolphins.  One in particular was having a ball doing twists and turns in tune to our music.  Look at the water clarity!

The dolphins gently guided us out of the Malolo pass near Cloud Break the world-famous surf spot.  We were going a little to fast to capture the surfers, but they seemed to be having a grand time.

What a great way to start our short passage.

Natadola Harbor

The winds were not cooperating, so we decided to make an overnight stop in a small bay called Natadola Harbor.  It is off the mainland of Viti Levu.  We did not arrive until late in the afternoon and planned to depart at dawn, so we did not go to shore to do sevusevu.  Sunset was gorgeous from here and we even saw the elusive green flash!

Next to the resort was a small community with very colorful houses.  Assume that is where the staff stayed, but I could be wrong.

The next morning, we planned to sail 80nm to Kadavu.  It would be a “stretch” as it is pretty far to go in day light hours and we were forecasted to have light winds.   In the end, we decided to make a game day decision on our destination once we got out at sea and could see the actual weather.

As it turned out, the wind was not strong enough for a sail that far.  We decided to head to Mbengga Reef which was only 40nm away – new place to explore since we had not been there before.

Yanuca Island

Inside the Mbengga reef is a small island called Yanuca Island.  We found a pretty anchorage just in front of a school and residence.  Really green hillsides and super quiet anchorage.  

It was a quick stop for us as we had grand plans to make it to Kadavu.  After one short overnight we left Yanuca for Mbengga.

Mbengga Island

We headed across the lagoon 12nm to the island of Mbengga.  There is a deep inlet that was calling to us!  Can you see the red arrow in the right photo?  That is Sugar Shack.

The entrance to the inlet is so darn pretty.  It really took our breath away with its vibrant green hillsides and smooth waters. Just screaming “come enjoy the beauty of Mbengga.”

At the mouth of the bay is a resort called Lalati Resort. You can barely see the hidden villas tucked amongst the trees on the beach front.

Just past the resort is a small school with a playground.

And deep into the bay we went – another 2nm to the deep recess of the inlet. We went as far as we could while keeping water under our keel.

This place is so beautiful and serene.  Matt got the drone out and captured some truly amazing photos.

Mbengga aka Beqa

Mbengga aka Beqa

Another view. The brownish areas are actually reefs full of little fishies and wild life.

Sunset was magnificent with the calm waters reflecting skies beautiful colors.

And we were treated to the song of the fruit bats as they left to hunt for food.  It’s hard to capture these little buggers as they zoom across the sky at dusk.

The next morning we left Mbengga and headed toward the Kadavu Reef.  It was a dewy morning that left the boat moist, but the seas were calm and the weather beautiful.

The events from this blog occurred in early September 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events. We unwind and relax after a busy 5 weeks showing guests around in our last blog?

Unwinding on Sugar Shack

We love having guests on our boat.  However, after 5 weeks of entertaining, it was time for us to unwind. You might think, “Really, you don’t work and you live on a boat in paradise. What do you do differently to relax?”  Well, for starters, we don’t move the boat.

We needed some time to just “be.”  We ended up staying in the Port Denarau Marina for five days, which is really unusual for us.  But they had heavy duty laundry machines, hot showers, easy access to restaurants and a quiet mooring.  We did a massive cleaning on the boat, 6 loads of laundry, re-provisioning, and refueling. We ate out a bit more than usual as we both were tired of baking and cooking.  It was glorious. 

Sandy Spit

We did not move far once we decided to leave the marina.  We motored the 2-hours over to Malolo Island’s sandy spit.  It is far from the island and marina, but super pretty. This sandy spit is only visible during mid to low tide.  We have it all to ourselves from 3:00pm-10:30am.  However, during the peak time (10:30a-3:00p) the sandy spit is covered with tourists and people enjoying and unwinding at this little piece of heaven.  The first photo is our sandy spit waiting for the crowds. The second photo shows the first tourist boats arriving and the last photo is the giant cat that comes daily with a between 20-50 people.

We also get glorious and unencumbered sunsets from here.

Many nights were spent at the Island Bar where Sherry made me tasty frozen mojitos.

Enjoying many walks along the various beaches.

A few fabulous hikes around Malolo gave us super pretty views.

We even got beautiful sunsets from shore over the anchorage.

And just because sunsets help me unwind, here are a few more for you to enjoy

And another of the anchorages.

Sugar Shack happy at sunset

Cloud 9 Celebration

Chris on “Sea Glub” invited us to a party on Cloud 9.  They were celebrating the launch of a new ferry and hired dancers, singers, and a DJ.  So, off we went to the gorgeous waters of Cloud 9. Our friend Lewis on Sailing Q2 took this amazing photo for us.

The singers were fabulous and had such gorgeous voices!

The dancers were so much fun and had lovely spirits! 

Sugar Shack was anchored right in front of this floating bar. Lucky for us the music didn’t bother us because we were there dancing with the crowds.

Another beautiful photo captured by Lewis on Quixotic 2.

We met Barry in Curacao, then again in Columbia, Panama, French Polynesia, and now in Fiji!  We’ve seen him in 5 countries!  

We had a few more happy hours on shore and ended up meeting with Barry on White Shadow (you remember he has a popular YouTube Channel “Adventures of an Old Seadog”)

Happy hour at The Island Bar near Musket Cove on Malolo Island. Complete with coin operated BBQ grills, full restaurant menu and tons of frothy drinks.

We also had many dinners onboard other cruiser boats including Sea Jay, Anima, and Vavea!

Fred, Matt, me, Chris on Sea Jay

Fred, Matt, me, Chris on Sea Jay

Our friend, Jean Marc on Va’vea is a professional baker and he would stop by early in the mornings to drop off fresh baked warm bread!  This is his daughter Axcel.

To help you unwind some more…another sunset

And just because we finally found ourselves unwound, a sunrise photo.

This is our anchorage at the sandy spit near Malolo Island.  You can see why we had a hard time leaving as it is really pretty.  Isolated yet close enough to a small town and activities.

The events from this blog occurred in mid-August 2022.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  Did you catch our last blot post where we zip the Konis family through 4 islands?

Celebrating the Konis Family Fijian Style

As we near the end of the Konis family trip, we visit 4 islands in their last few days onboard Sugar Shack.  We stop in Naviti, Mana, Malolo, and Viti Levu in 3 days!

Day 9: Naviti Island to Mana Island

We were blessed with northerly winds which gave us a super comfortable downwind sail with our medium size spinnaker.  Everyone was a little nervous considering our last “longish” passage was pretty rough.  This time they all enjoyed the calm conditions as we surfed the seas and averaged 7kts to Mana Island.   35nm down in a blink of the eye.

I love exploring all of these islands for the first time with my family!  They get to see how we navigate into new passes and anchorages.  The pass into Mana island is crazy narrow and curvy.  It is certainly a challenge, especially during low tide.  But we manage to enter it and drop the hook with no issues (thank goodness).

We frolic in the water in the afternoon and enjoy a tasty porkchop dinner and chocolate raspberry ice cream for dessert.   Then we get real goofy watching Zoolander 2.

Day 10: Mana Island and Malolo Island

The next morning, we go ashore to explore Mana island.  It is filled with many backpacker resorts on one side of the island and a posh resort on the other.  A huge ugly fence separates the two halves of the island which is rather unfortunate!  The village and backpacker side is super friendly and very welcoming to cruisers.  We enjoyed some cold beverages, a walk through their small market, and chatting with the locals.  We did venture around the fence to the resort side and found it to be a typical posh resort.   Friendly enough to us, but not overly welcoming like we are used to with the Fijian culture.

This was a funny sign using “kava” as a pun…

The anchorage looks so pretty and peaceful from shore.

We ran into some beautiful little children while here.

We tried to do sevusevu here as well but the chief was not on island during our visit.  The local lady suggested we buy from the artisans instead of presenting kava and we happily obliged as they had some lovely wares.

We left early afternoon to visit Cloud 9, a similar over the water bar as Seventh Heaven. We were very surprised by the large number of people that came and went (in 2-hour increments) and the slow service.  Very different atmosphere than Seventh Heaven, but the food was good and the drinks were cold!

Even though it was drizzling a little, we still enjoyed ourselves.

A huge rain cloud was coming our way so we quickly headed back to Sugar Shack to motor to the east side Malolo Island.  We were hoping for protection from the winds, but as it turned out the weather forecast was delayed and we ended having a super bumpy night.

We were blessed with a beautiful double rainbow after the showers stopped.

The Musket Cove anchorage is super crowded – we spotted over 50 boats on AIS alone plus another 20-30 boats not broadcasting. Good thing we did not go there to anchor in that mess!

Day 11:  Malolo, Musket Cove

There is a pass from our anchorage to the Musket Cove anchorage.  We thought we could easily traverse this but we did not take into account the King tide.  Of course, it was low, low tide when we wanted to go ashore.  So, we dinghied to the reef, found some sandy areas and gently walked across to the shore.  Once onshore, we found a beautiful little trail that lead us all the way to the Musket Cove Resort.

We had lunch at Dick’s Place and enjoyed some pool time at the resort.  A calm, chill day.

Day 12: Malolo Island to Port Denarau

Around mid-day we leave Malolo Island for Port Denarau.  It is a short 2-hour motor directly into the wind.  We grab a mooring and decide to head to shore for a late lunch and then well-deserved hot showers (love marina life sometimes).

Back to the boat to pack and enjoy bhan mi for dinner.  We were meeting our taxi driver across from the “Sails Restaurant” who happened to be hosting a special event.  Outside Sails were some beautiful local Fijian dancers who gave the Konis family a proper send off!

It was so much fun having Troy, Kimberly, Cole and Cameron onboard as we explored the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands.  We are so grateful they chose to spend their holidays with us onboard Sugar Shack!

Events from this blog occurred in the first two week of August.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual events.   In our last blog, we adventure through a series of underwater caves in the island of Sawa-I-Lau.