Category Archives: Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

The ABC islands

Discovering Bonaire-South Part I

We had decided to take a combination tour that would show us the North and South side of the island.  We selected Voyager Bonaire as our tour company.  Our tour guide, Eddy was very informative, funny, and totally down to earth – someone we could certainly hang out with at the local pub.  We packed a cooler, hopped in the dinghy and headed to shore for our 8:45 am pick up.  As we climbed into the air conditioned van, we met our tour mates, Selena and Maria who are from the Netherlands (they speak Dutch and English).

We started our tour heading South and the first stop was the Salt Flats.  Salt is one of Bonaire’s main industries so it is not surprising that the tour guide stopped at the flats.  They have several pits (evaporation ponds) that they slowly fill with water.  Within a week, the combination of the brine shrimp and bacteria in the ponds turn the water purple (a true purple color), as the water cools and the wind blows, foam forms on the side of the ponds and I swear it jiggles with the wind!  As the water evaporates, it leaves behind industrial salt that is not edible at this stage.  They are huge salt crystals which are moved into piles that form gorgeous white mountains.

Salt Flats week 2 turn the water purple

Salt Flats week 2 turn the water purple

Foam caused from bacteria bi-product

Foam caused from bacteria bi-product

Cool salt crystal

Cool salt crystal

Young magazine video shoot with Mustang at Salt Flats

Young magazine video shoot with Mustang at Salt Flats

Back in the 1800’s slaves used to manage the salt flats by hand, but now they have a huge conveyor belt and heavy machinery that does the work.

After we left the Salt Flats we came across the first set of “slave huts.”  They had three sets that were marked by color: red, white, and orange.  Basically, as the salve ships came in to port, they were directed to one of the three areas to drop off the slaves.  Eddy told us that 2-3 people slept in each hut but he believes the number to be closer to 7-8.  They were remarkably small and bare.  Hard to believe that one person slept in each one let alone 7-8.

Slave huts

Slave huts

Matt at door and me swing him thru window

Matt at door and me swing him thru window

As we drove around the southern tip of the island we came upon Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary, which is one of four areas in the world where Flamingos breed.  The Sanctuary is located on the vast salt pans at the southern end of the island and home to over ten thousand flamingos.  Unfortunately we could not see very many from the road, but I was able to capture a baby and its mama.

Mama and baby Flamingo

Mama and baby Flamingo

The Willemstoren Lighthouse is still operational and warns traveling boats of the many reefs on the south side of the island.  The ruin to the right used to be the home of the caretaker of the lighthouse.  It has not been maintained well, but the basic structure is still standing.

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Lighthouse caretaker house

Lighthouse caretaker house

The last stop on our southern island tour was Lac Bay which is home to Jibe City, the windsurfing school.  It is a totally laid back atmosphere, casual, easy going group of people that have created this amazing community to teach people how to windsurf, SUP and more.  In addition to the school, they have a restaurant, massage area, sun bathing area, free wifi, and small store.  This is definitely a place we could hang out for a few days.  The professional instructors are champions.  In fact, Bonaire is home to four of the world’s top windsurfers, so you learn from the best.  Lac Bay is only a few feet deep and is a few miles to the closest reef so beginners have a huge area to practice on without any danger.  We met several of the champions as Eddy seemed to know everyone.

Jibe City Windsurfing Sails

Jibe City Windsurfing Sails

Windsurfers learning at Lac Bay

Windsurfers learning at Lac Bay

​Stay tuned for more on the Northern part of our tour.

Dushi Island

As we explored the island we kept seeing a lot of stores, signs, and shirts with “dushi” on it – “Dushi Dive” “Dushi Bonaire” and all sorts of other “Dushi” things.  How weird.  In America, “Dush” is a derogatory word.  So, I had to ask the lady a local what “dushi” meant and to my surprise she said it was a term of endearment, meaning “sweet/sweetheart.”  Well now that makes a lot more sense!  Still, I do not think I can bring myself to buying a shirt, hat or trinket with “dushi” written on it – or can I?


Bonaire is a quiet, charming, and pretty clean island with about 19,000 inhabitants.  The government has determined that they will only grow to the size of 30-35k inhabitants.  Bonaire is part of the Netherland’s Antilles, with its sister Islands, Curacao and Aruba.  Other Antillean islands include St. Maarten, Saba, and Statia.  They capital Kralendijk (pronounced crawlen dike) which is the main port and the only mooring area.  The entire island is only 12 square miles and the inhabitants only occupy about 5% of the island. Another 25% of the island is the National Park.  The two main industries are salt and tourism even though they do not really cater to boaters.

Being the third best dive spot in the world makes diving a huge part of their tourism business, but they also have a booming business in snorkeling, windsurfing, and bird watching.  In addition, you can enjoy parrot, donkey, and flamingo sanctuaries.  Windsurfing takes place on Lac Bay, a large lagoon on the windward side of the island which is protected from seas by a low lying reef.  The depth is only about 1 meter and it is 2 miles from shore to the reef which makes a large protected area for beginners to learn how to windsurf.  Professional windsurfers run the windsurfing school called Jibe City. Bonaire is home to the top 4 windsurfers in the world so you can learn from the best!.

Jibe City Windsurfing School

Jibe City Windsurfing School

There is only one stop light on island and it is not used for traffic.  It actually says STOP FOR PIZZA.  Love it.

Stop For Pizza

Stop For Pizza

There are 12 massive windmills on the North Eastern side of the island and they each provide 1 megawatt of energy.  The island however, uses about 22 megawatts of energy so they built a plant which can generate up to 24 megawatts of energy during the time the windmills cease to provide their share (September-October).

A tour is definitely in order to help us get the lay of the land so to speak.  It appears that most of the site seeing places require a car so we might have to look into that as well.  Places of interest include Washington Slagbaai National Park, parrot sanctuary, donkey sanctuary, Rincon, Salt Flats, Cave tour, Cadushi Factory, Blow Hole, Salt Flats,  Famingo Sanctuary, Slave Houses, Seru Largu, Lighthouse and ruin and the dive sites including 1,000 steps, pink beach, Klein Bonaire, and more.

Currency is the U.S. dollar even though it is a Dutch island.  I believe some places still take the guilder (sometimes called the florin) which is about 1.78N to the $1. We used guilder while we were in St. Maarten a few times.

The main languages in Bonaire are Dutch, English, Spanish, and Papiamentu which is a mix of languages that started with the slaves who did not understand, Dutch, English, or Spanish.  A small glossary of words can be found here.

Bonaire is really flat, dry and full of cactus which is very different from the Caribbean islands we are used to which are filled with mountains and lush terrain.  Most people think that Bonaire is a volcanic island but we learned it is really a tectonic island (meaning the plates in the ocean push up the island over time).  But to me, when you look at the island it looks like a choral island as it is filled with choral everywhere.

Bon Dia Bonaire

We all slept in until after 8am!  Yeah!  How silly is it that we think that was sleeping in?  But it was.  We are usually up at dawn (545a-6a) so the extra few hours were very much appreciated.  We enjoyed a lazy morning, made breakfast, cleaned up the boat after the crossing and made a game plan for the day.

The first thing we noticed when we crawled out of bed was a giant cruise ship, which meant that the town would be crawling with tourists.   That’s ok, we can work around them.  We started off by heading to Immigration to finish our clearing in process.  They were very pleasant and informed us that we could stay for 91 days and if we wanted to stay longer we could apply for an extension.  Seemed simple enough, but we will have to circle back to that when our 91 days are up.  They did say that if we were to leave for 3 months the clock will be reset but that would not really work for us.  However, our time in Aruba and Curacao will not count as part of our 91 days.  We thought it might as they are all part of the Lesser Antilles, but they don’t – so that is good.  After we cleared in, we walked through the local market with lots of different vendors including clothing, glass jewelry, and the standard tourist items.  We then continued through town to find a small grocery store, laundry, Digicel (or Telbo), liquor store, and tour place.  Trying to get the lay of the land basically. It was a really lovely foot tour all along the coast.  We did find each of the stores we were looking for, but we did not find the large grocery store, cash and carry store (like Divico and Prime in St. Marten), the huge self-serve laundry facility, or really good liquor stores.  Tomorrow is another day, we shall keep searching.

It was pretty darn hot and around lunch time, so we decided to stop in for a cold one.  The place we chose was called “Watta burger” – can you believe it?  Not the same, WhataBurger, as in Texas, but pretty darn funny.  They had big hanging hammock chairs, great breeze, tasty snack foods and super-fast wifi!  Next, we headed to a dive shop to obtain our snorkeling permits.  Since the entire island is a National Park, you have to get a permit to do anything (fishing, snorkeling, diving).  We picked up 3 permits for $10 each and inquired about the diving permits.  Evidently, we will have to take a refresher course in order to get a diving permit (probably a good idea as it has been 12 years since my last dive).  We are going to have think on that one.  After that we decided to schedule an island tour for Wednesday and headed back to the boat to drop our boat paperwork off and then we hopped in the dinghy, found the Harbor Village Marina office and paid for our mooring.  They maintain the 40 moorings which are the only place you can be on the island.  Then we took Sweet N Low for a beach tour to find a cool beach bar.  We ended up at CoCo Beach Bar which had a really nice shady breezy area, cold beers, and good wifi.  (You notice a theme?)  We have not been able to find wifi for the boat so we are visiting a lot of places that offer it for their customers.

CoCo Beach bar provided ample shade and cool beverages.

CoCo Beach bar provided ample shade and cool beverages.

Just takes your breath away

Just takes your breath away

Stunning view - so blessed

Stunning view – so blessed!

It had been a long day and we walked a fair distance, so we headed back to the boat.  Matt made his famous pork chop dinner and we enjoyed a quiet night on Sugar Shack.