Category Archives: Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

The ABC islands

Exploring Willemstad

We piled into Sweet N Low and headed to Fisherman’s Harbor where we could tie up for free, drop our trash, and find a bus into town.  Spanish Waters is about 25-35 minutes away from Willemstad where we must do our formalities.  We had a “general” idea of where each of the 3 places were, but no map and no idea which bus to take to get us there.  A great opportunity to talk to the locals.  We easily found the dinghy dock, dropped our trash, and were told where to find the bus stop.  A short walk and 10 minutes later, a large tour like bus (with 6A Carracasbaai) arrived, opened the doors and I peered in.  Do you go to Willemstad?  Yes, we do.  Great, we paid $1 each and got back some guilders (Dutch currency which has an exchange rate of about 1.7 to $1) and enjoyed the ride.  Since Wayne had checked out some online maps he led the way to our first stop. Customs.

We did a little site seeing on the way since we are in the capital Willemstad, which is a twin city with Punda on the east and Otrobanda (means other side) on the west.  Punda is the oldest part of Willemstad and is a unique mixture of Dutch and Caribbean influences.  Centuries of Dutch rule, slave trade and commerce come alive when you pass through the streets here.  The heart of Punda is geared toward the tourists and is formed by broad shopping areas with mazes upon mazes of streets filled with shops and small eateries with loads of local vendors selling their wares all over the place.  Reminded me a bit like downtown LA or maybe the cleaner side of Tijuana.  We quickly came across the floating market which sells fresh fruits, vegetables and fish.  This is one of the best produce markets we have encountered.  Venezuelan’s and Columbian’s load up their fishing boats with fresh produce and vegetables (that are not available and do not grow on Curacao) from their home country and come to Punda to sell them to locals and tourists.  They stay in Curacao for 2 months, go back to their home country for 2 months and return again.  They rotate so that there are always boats of food available in Curacao.

Rows of Stands: Fruit & Veggie Market

Rows of Stands: Fruit & Veggie Market

Mouthwatering-YUMMINESS!!

Mouthwatering-YUMMINESS!!

The back of the floating market at Punda.

The back of the floating market at Punda.

They also have a fresh fish floating market every morning. Certainly, a place we will come to often!

Fish market-one of many boats

After a wrong turn or two and help from a security guard, we found Duane (aka customs).  Normally, Matt goes in alone to clear the boat and crew into a new island (as customary in most countries).  However, in Bonaire and Curacao they require everyone to come to shore.  Customs was pretty straight forward and easy.  Next, we needed to find immigration which we knew was in Otrobanda.  So, we headed to the famous Queen Emma floating pontoon bridge that connects Punda to Otrobanda.  The floating pontoon bridge is made up of 16 floating pontoons and swings open frequently to allow boat traffic through, even while there are people on the bridge.  From 1901 to 1934, people had to pay a toll (of 2 cents) to cross the bridge if they wore shoes.  So, the wealthy took their shoes off and the poor borrowed shoes to maintain a sense of pride.

Floating pontoon bridge, Queen Emma.

Floating pontoon bridge, Queen Emma.

Mural of the floating pontoon bridge.

Mural of the floating pontoon bridge.

But as we approached the area, there was no bridge, what?  We noticed ferries were running so we looked across to Otrobanda and saw that the floating bridge was tied up to the side of the wall – must mean a large ship is coming through. So, we hopped on the ferry to get to Otrobanda.   Once across the other side, we made several wrong turns, asked many locals for directions, were sent to immigration, but not for incoming yachts and got a bit turned around.  We eventually found a security guard at the entrance to an industrial dock who took Matt’s passport, jotted some info down, handed us a piece of paper and allowed us through.  Hmph!  Well, we walked on in, walked down a long industrial dock until we came upon a building that looked like a photo we had seen online.  Success, we found immigration.  After we completed that paperwork, we went upstairs to port authority which was in a narrow and cramped hallway, maybe 4’ wide by 15’ deep and it already had 3 people waiting.  So, we waited, and waited.  Luckily it was air conditioned and the lady was really nice.  But she did have to educate us on anchorages.  Evidently, we cannot move from our current anchorage in area B to the any other area A, C, or D without coming back to alert port authority, paying 10 Naf ($5).  What?  Why does it matter if we move around the same bay?  But at this point we were so tired, we did not want to make a stink or cause any more delays.  She then informed us that if we wanted to go to any of the other island anchorages (Fuik Baai, Piscadera Bay, Santa Martha, or Santa Cruz), we had to come back to port authority (PA) and tell them our schedule.  We could only stay 3 days at each anchorage and it costs 10 Naf per anchorage.  Wow, they don’t make it easy to be a boater here.  But, either way, we were cleared in after 4 hours.

Spanish Waters anchorage.

Spanish Waters anchorage.

Anchorage areas, A, B, C, D located in Spanish Waters. Would have been helpful to have the GPS coordinates while anchoring.

Anchorage areas, A, B, C, D located in Spanish Waters. Would have been helpful to have the GPS coordinates while anchoring.

Giant metal art sculpture in the heart of Punda.

Giant metal art sculpture in the heart of Punda.

View of Otrobanda from Punda.

View of Otrobanda from Punda.

Cool heart sculpture where you place a lock for love.

Cool heart sculpture where you place a lock for love.

We were starving so we grabbed lunch at a Latin fusion restaurant called Kriollomania.  We ordered a mixed grill for 2 people which had 2 pork chops, 2 sausages, a huge pile of chicken, huge pile of beef, rice, and french fries.  I mean who can eat all of that?  It was pretty tasty but we had to move on as we had a tour booked.  We headed to the Maritime Museum where we met our tour group and then proceeded down to the ferry dock to start our harbor tour.  Our tour guide gave us a lot of great educational information about the history of the harbor.

Fort Nassau is an old fort that has been turned into a restaurant situated high upon a hill at the harbor entrance giving its diners a 360-degree view of Punda and Otrobanda.

Fort Nassau up on a cliff.

Fort Nassau up on a cliff.

Busy industrial harbor bringing in a lot of revenue for the government.

Busy industrial harbor bringing in a lot of revenue for the government.

Giant sign / art that make for great photos.

Giant sign / art that make for great photos.

I tried to sit on the "H" but could not get up so I settled for the "U". Dushi means "sweet"

I tried to sit on the “H” but could not get up so I settled for the “U”. Dushi means “sweet”

After a long day ashore, we caught the bus back to Caracas Baai (6A) and decided we earned a well-deserved cold beverage at the Pirate’s Nest which could easily be a place we frequent often!

Pirate's Nest

Pirate’s Nest

Butler pirate offering a 3 course meal for $34

Butler pirate offering a 3 course meal for $34

Sleeping pirate awaiting an attack from the fish below.

Sleeping pirate awaiting an attack from the fish below.

Suave pirate trying to take over for Johnny Depp.

Suave pirate trying to take over for Johnny Depp.

Only happy pirates at the Pirate's Nest.

Only happy pirates at the Pirate’s Nest.

Sea Sick Sailor?

Yep, I am prone to sea sickness and I live on a boat.  Usually, 95% of the time, I am fine and can prevent it from coming on, but sometimes I don’t think, act too confident, and just mess up.  Shall I back up?

Wayne, Matt and I pulled off our mooring early Tuesday morning to head to Curacao which had a pretty good weather window.  It had been blowing stink for the last few days and Tuesday was the first day the winds calmed down to 20 kn (from 30 kn).  The seas were 1.5-2 meters in 5-6 second intervals (meaning they were coming at us frequently).  They hit the boat on the beam and stern a sort of swirly wave that rocked the boat an odd way.  All was good for the first 90 minutes until I decided I wanted to bake brownies and prep the ingredients for my upside-down cheesecake.  Not sure what I was thinking (Oh, right, I wasn’t!)

First, I should have taken a meclizine to start the day, just in case, nice preventative measure.  If there is bad weather, I usually take one in the morning before departing.  If we are going to do a passage with several overnights, I will actually wear the patch.

Second, I should have stayed at the port helm where I was getting a great breeze, could see the horizon, and felt fine.  But, I wanted to bake some yumminess, didn’t feel bad at the time, and thought it would be fun.  So, inside I went where there was no breeze, hot, and rolly.

I didn’t actually get “sick” but I sure as heck did not feel well.  I managed to make the brownies and crush the vanilla wafers for the crust of my cheesecake before I decided to sleep it off.  Yeah, I love that my body knows how to make me feel better – a quick nap did the trick.

But, this left the boys to navigate and manage the double reefed sails on their own – which is fine as they love to do that anyway.  We made it safely to Curacao, took us about 6 hours to sail the 40 nautical miles.  We had never been to Spanish Waters and the channel into this anchorage is peppered with reefs.  Luckily our charts helped us navigate.  This anchorage is split into 4 areas: A, B, C, and D.  We read that A and B are the best areas as they have good holding, a solid breeze, and are close to marina’s.

Anchorage areas outlined in Spanish Waters.

Anchorage areas outlined in Spanish Waters.

We could not tell where each area started and ended as the GPS coordinates were on my computer and not accessible without internet. We tried anchoring in several places but the screwy winds had us blowing too close to other boats.  We found a few places that looked good but the holding was not good.  So, after 6-7 attempts, we were frustrated, hot, and really wanting to just call it a day.  Luckily, we found a good spot, in 7 meters of water (not too deep), not near any other boats, with good holding. Yeah!  This entire anchoring process took several hours so once we landed the hook, we had a beer and rested a bit.  Since it was too late to catch the bus to go into town for formalities, we decided to dinghy around two of the three marinas to get our bearing, then have dinner and play a game of cards.

Sugar Shack on the border of area B in Spanish Waters

Sugar Shack on the border of area B in Spanish Waters

Unexpected Float and Festival

I had all intentions of going to church today, but after our day yesterday my body just would not let me get up at 630am.  I was so tired, the boys were still asleep, the sun was just coming up and if I turned my head just to the left I would be blanketed in semi-darkness and back to sleep I went.  There are days I can hardly move without some sort of joint pain, but today was different, it was just pure exhaustion.  However, I am not complaining as I am super proud of what my little vessel did yesterday!  Today, we had to return the rental car before 10:30 am.  Wayne decided to stay on the boat and read while Matt and I fed the car and returned it to the airport.  On the way out of town, we decided to stop at Kooyman Home Improvement store.  WOW, we were so surprised at how nice and huge this store is!  Think Home Depot meets Bed, Bath, and Beyond in Beverly Hills!  Sparkly floors, well organized, fully stocked, and super friendly people.  We did not have much time to explore this store, but we did manage to pick up a few items and determine we need to come again when we have more time.

Off to the airport, hmmm, how do we get there again?  After a wrong turn or two, we found the road and made it just in time 10:28 am.  And then we waited as they were pretty busy operation with only 2 people working.  Since we were several miles from our dinghy, we asked them to give us a ride back to Karel’s Bar which they obliged.  As we drove down the shoreline, we noticed Sugar Shack looking beautiful at her anchorage – YEAH!

But, within the 5 minutes it took Matt and I to get into our dinghy and head to her she was turned the wrong way and had drifted (floated) about 35-40′ away from her mooring spot.  Oh $HIT!  Wayne started the engines, we hopped aboard and quickly readied the boat for movement.  When we are comfortably anchored, we have the dagger boards up, the boom off to the side to allow for maxim sunshine on our solar panels, and all the hatches open.  As Matt jockeyed the boat back to the shallows, we were closing hatches, centering the boom and lowering dagger boards.  It was challenging to steer the boat with a massive weight at the bow (not sure how much the sand screw weighed but it through off the balance of the boat).

I should back up.  The moorings are provided by Harbour Village Marina and they require you to pick up two moorings lines (one for each side of your boat).  You thread your line through the eye of one mooring float and tie it down on your port cleat and repeat the process for the starboard cleat.  After we selected this mooring 5 days ago, we dove on it to check it out.  There were three huge cement blocks, but our mooring lines were not on any of those blocks.  Our mooring lines were both coming from a single sand screw next to these blocks.  I promptly stated my unease to this situation but the boys assured me it was fine as several other moorings looked just like this one.

Fast forward to today, we drifting away from shore and thank God we were here to witness it and establish a new mooring.  We returned the sand screw to shallow waters so they could reset it and grabbed a new mooring.  Imagine if this were to have happened when we were hours away hiking in the Washington Slagbaai park?  Our boat would be half way to Venezuela or aground on Klein Curacao by now!  I know my mom is watching out for us as this was a true gift and great learning opportunity!

Current mooring, with one line tied to our port bow, one to the starboard bow, and for extra measure, the third tied to our bridle.

Current mooring, with one line tied to our port bow, one to the starboard bow, and for extra measure, the third tied to our bridle.

The sand screw that we pulled up. This is after we replaced her back on shallow waters.

The sand screw that we pulled up. This is after we replaced her back on shallow waters.

The thing that is so odd is that we are only 47′ boat and weigh 11 tons (which is really light for our boat).  They allow up to 60′ boats which was a hell of a lot more than we do.  The winds were not particularly strong, they were stronger than they have been but gusting too much.  I am confused as to why the sand screw did not hold us, but so blessed that Sugar Shack is alright.

After our morning adventure, we notified the coast guard and went to the marina office to let them know what had happened.  Unfortunately they were not there, closed on Sunday’s.  We sent them an email and did manage to tie the rogue mooring together so another boat will not try to use it, and then we tripled our new mooring.

The next day, we headed straight for the marina office and talked to the one guy who handles all of the moorings.  Remember, these are the ONLY moorings on the island and you are not allowed to anchor so we have maintain a good relationship with this person.  I introduced myself and mentioned the email.  He had printed it and said he was planning on giving it to the park rangers to take a look.  He did not offer an apology, he did not thank us for returning the sand screw to shallow waters or clipping the mooring balls together to prevent another boater from picking them up, and he was actually rather curt with us.  What?  Just walk away, you did the right thing and just walk away.

We decided to go snorkeling to “cool off” which can turn any situation around.  As I mentioned earlier, the bow of our boat is in about 7 meters of water but the stern is in about 50 meters.  Basically we are on a steep sea cliff that allows for great snorkeling right off the back of your boat.  Of course, it freaks me out a bit as you cannot see anything in the deep blue depths of the water so I hover around the drop off point and admire the fish and corals that hang out there.  We then decided to snorkel over at CoCo Beach where we spotted a giant puffer (my favorite) and I mean big, he was at least 3′ long with sparkly blue eyes!  We also spotted two sea snakes being chased by fish which made me laugh out loud, which then caused my mask to fill with water (more laughter).  We also spotted an eel hiding in the rocks – pretty cool snorkel spot!

Just hanging out at "Dushi" Coco Beach!

Just hanging out at “Dushi” Coco Beach!

Matt dragged me in to the men's room to show me this and I had to take a photo! They need hot men in the women's room!

Matt dragged me in to the men’s room to show me this and I had to take a photo! They need hot men in the women’s room!

As was becoming a pattern, we headed into Karel’s for happy hour.  Our bartender, who happens to be the manager, Don de Leon (love that name) told us about the Taste of Bonaire that was happening just a few yards away.  This is a huge event where tourists and locals can experience the taste, culture and arts of Bonaire.  Everyone can experience Bonaire’s food, local music, handcrafts and much more!  It was a pretty large event with lots of friendly people walking around.  As we left the bar, we met Dave and Mary from “Wandering Rose” a 38′ Admiral Catamaran.  Super nice boaters heading to the San Blasts Islands (a place Matt and I hope to visit).  We were all hungry so we walked the food tents and selected our favorites. I headed to a BBQ place for ribs and Matt headed for an Indonesian tent with the longest line (he waited over an hour for his first Indonesian food experience — and really liked it.  I sent photos of the menu to my dad who provided hints as to what we should try.

Indonesian Menu. We ordered Nasi, Loempia and Risolles - yummy!

Indonesian Menu. We ordered Nasi, Loempia and Risolles – yummy!

Matt takes a dive to clean off after a long day (this was actually from the other day)