Category Archives: Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

The ABC islands

A Mermaid’s Tale

Today we wanted to circle back to the bays (or baais) that looked like they had good snorkeling so we headed back to the north side of the island.  Our first stop was Playa Lagun which looked like a fun place to come back to have lunch.   We grabbed our snorkel gear, found a nice rock to leave our clothes and jumped in. Wayne was off to the races and quickly deserted us.  But, Matt stuck by my side and we enjoyed the beautiful little bay’s reefs and sea life.  This bay is also used for diving and many groups of people were learning how to dive and practicing their dive skills.  We met some lovely people who told us about a bay where you can swim with a lot of turtles.  So, we added Playa Piskado to our list.

Please don't swim away, I want to play with you.

Please don’t swim away, I want to play with you.

On the way to Playa Piskado, we came across Playa Kenepa Chiki where we hopped out, did a quick snorkel and got back on the road.

Playa Piskado

Playa Piskado

Next, we came across Playa Kenepa Grandi. There were tons of cars and two tour buses letting their passengers experience the amazing photo opp on a large overlook onto the bay. Since this was a pretty crowded place with lots of people on the beach we decided to continue onward.

Playa Kenepa Grandi view from overlook

Playa Kenepa Grandi view from overlook

Posers in our swimwear came in for a photo op and left without snorkeling.

Posers in our swimwear came in for a photo op and left without snorkeling.

Playa Kenepa Grandi crowded beach below

Playa Kenepa Grandi crowded beach below

Playa Piskado which is also known as Playa Grandi is where many local fishermen return with their catch of the day, clean the fish, and toss the left-overs in the water.  The interesting thing is that there were not a lot of fish eating the unwanted fish parts (or birds) like we’ve seen before.  But rather there were lots of turtles.  The young turtles are omnivores and eat both meat and plants.  As they get older their diet changes to just plants.  We quickly hoped in the water and enjoyed a rare opportunity to swim with large and small turtles alike!

Matt trying to say hello, he did not touch the turtle.

Matt trying to say hello, he did not touch the turtle.



It was getting close to lunch time so we decided to head back to Playa Lagun and try out the restaurant at the top of the cliff called Bahia Beach Bar.  We sat down at a table near the railing so we could watch the snorkelers and divers.  But what we didn’t know was that the iguanas were going to provide the entertainment for the afternoon. There were a few tables in the direct sun which were occupied by a couple of young ladies.  We decided to sit in the shade as we were already burning up.  As the food arrived for the girls, the iguanas came out in full force and were pretty aggressive.  One jumped on the table and the other sat at their feet like a dog begging for left-overs.  It was pretty funny actually, but only because it wasn’t happening to me.

Wayne, the great lizard hunter catching his lunc

Wayne, the great lizard hunter catching his lunch.


After we left Playa Lagun for the 2nd time, we headed to Playa Santa Cruz where we thought mushroom forest and the famous blue room were located.  Mushroom forest is what they named the coral reefs as they appear to be tons of mushrooms on the ocean sea bed.  The blue room is a cave that divers usually frequent but we had heard that snorkelers can get there as well.  We jumped in the water and snorkeled all around the bay but could not find either of them.  Wayne, being the little fish that he is, swam half way to the next bay and came up empty handed.  They remain elusive, but I will find them before we leave!  It was still an ok snorkel spot, I mean how do you complain when you are snorkeling in Curacao?

We were pretty snorkeled out by the end of the day so we decided to head back into town to check out Mambo Beach.  Even though this is a man-made beach, it is really beautiful with its white sand beaches, crystal blue waters.  There is a boardwalk with tons and tons of nice shops, bars, and eateries that fit just about anybody’s taste and budget.

Madero Ocean Club on Mambo Beach

Madero Ocean Club on Mambo Beach

Another ocean club on Mambo beach

Another ocean club on Mambo beach

Can I get this for anyone you love?

Can I get this for anyone you love?

We stopped at the Aqua Beach Bar, enjoyed the passing scenery and shenanigans of the beach goers before heading back to the boat.

Enjoying a drink at Aqua Beach Bar

Enjoying a drink at Aqua Beach Bar.

Great day to be a mermaid!

Three Blind Mice

Curacao is a large island with over 159,000 inhabitants including 50-60 nationalities and 20 different religions.  Most of the population is European and African.  We learned that all kids learn 4 languages in primary school including Dutch, Papiamentu, English and Spanish.  In secondary school they can elect to take 2 more languages which is usually either Spanish, German, French, or Portuguese.  So, with our limited linguistic skills we can get by with “American.”  Sure, makes me feel “less than” considering I only know English and a bit of Spanish so I am trying my Papiamentu out as much as possible and the locals sure seem appreciative.  I found a bartender who teaches me something new every day.

We decided to walk to the car rental place which was in the Papagayo Beach Resort.  We had stopped by yesterday but only Jan Theil Car rentals was open and they had a 3-day minimum.  Avis had a car for a total of $68 per day which included tax and insurance.  Matt would take on the challenge of driving around the island, but the good news was that the wheel is on the left side of the car and you drive on the same side of the road as the U.S.  But, there are tons of round-a-bouts and very few street signs.  Unfortunately, we did not grab a map from Avis so we were trying to find our way around the south side of the island with a hokey tourist map which only had major cities and no roads or streets listed.  It grew frustrating very quickly.  We did manage to find Fort Beekenburg which was built in 1703 with stones from Walloon region.  The ships used the stones as ballast on the way here and then filled their ships with salt on the way back.

Matt hanging out in the guard shack.

Matt hanging out in the guard shack.

Old discarded cannons

Old discarded cannons

Wayne admiring the view

Wayne admiring the view

Prisoner shackles up here?

Prisoner shackles up here?

Cannon can shoot a long way out there.

Cannon can shoot a long way out there.

Matt always has to find the tallest peak and climb it

Matt always has to find the tallest peak and climb it

After driving around aimlessly, we got lost a little and made several wrong turns, so we decided to head to the airport to try to find a map.  Somehow, we managed to find the airport and I scored an island guide road map book which had detailed maps of several main cities including a great overall island map!  Wayne, our navigator, is fully armed now!

We tried to find Koraal Tabak because we heard there was a nice hike to a cave.  We found the bay, but we could not find the hike entrance.  We finally gave up because we had gotten too far off the main road and were bumping up and down on dirt roads in our small Kia.  Matt and I will circle back to this area as I want to find this hike and explore the Hato Caves which are nearby.

We did stumble upon a great little find in St. Joris Baai, a place called Fundashon Sint Joris Baai which helps children learn to windsurf who do not have the money to pay for lessons or gear.  They also teach kids how to kitesurf, kayak, mountain bike, and do art. There was nobody home when we visited, but we looked around anyway.

 Fundashon entrance

Fundashon entrance

Entirely made of recycled products.

Entirely made of recycled products.

View from the upper balcony

View from the upper balcony

Shacks where people can sleep - little better than under a bridge.

Shacks where people can sleep – little better than under a bridge.

There are a few other places I’d like to come back and visit on the South side of the island, but we just did not have time to get to them all.  I’d like to see the ostrich farm, do the hike at Koraal Tabak and find the cave, visit the aquarium, Mambo Beach, a few art galleries, and the Hato caves.  Good thing we are here for a few months.

We headed north toward Boca Ascencion to find another hike that lead to turtle beach.  We found Ascencion, but did not find the trail entrance and frankly got tired of driving on the bumpy dirt roads again.  At this point, we were hungry so food became a high priority.  We drove through a small town called Soto and there were no places to eat, no restaurants, nothing.  The next town was Barber and we were certain we would find a thriving metropolis.  Well, no not really, but we did hope to find several places to eat.  We did not find a selection, but we found “4th of July Snack” on the corner of a closed strip mall with several locals hanging out in the parking lot.  When in Rome!  Ruby our super friendly helper, ordered a burger for Wayne, chicken stew for me, and a cabbage dish for Matt.  The burger was Caribbean style on Curacao bread, the chicken stew had a curry sauce and was really tasty and Matt devoured his cabbage with pork that fell off the bone.  A really wonderful local experience!  I’d include a link to this place, but it is so small I could not find anything on the web about it, but you cannot miss if when driving through the small town of Barber.

As our day was coming to an end, there were two more stops we wanted to make.  We were looking for the mushroom forest and the famous blue room  which we thought were located on Playa Santa Cruz.  But alas, we did not the forest or blue room.  Not a problem because the beach on Playa Santa Cruz was beautiful with thatch roofs over picnic benches.  We will come back here tomorrow to snorkel and explore some more.  (Several days later, back at the boat and online, I learned that mushroom forest and the blue room are located at Playa Santu Pretu which is not reachable by car.  You park at Playa Santa Cruz and hike 10 minutes to Playa Santu Pretu).

Playa Santa Cruz

Playa Santa Cruz

Off to the next stop, Playa Lagun which is a small beach with a few fishing boats, free lounge chairs, huge covered cabana, and a restaurant at the top of the hill overlooking this quaint little bay.  The water was absolutely gorgeous a crystal clear turquoise color.  This is at the top of our list for a return visit tomorrow.

Playa Lagoon nestled between two large cliffs.

Playa Lagoon nestled between two large cliffs.

A few fisherman call this bay home.

A few fisherman call this bay home.

Someone stuck fish parts into the rock - what do you see?

Someone stuck fish parts into the rock – what do you see?

Bahia Beach bar overlooks the bay - a mere 42 steps up

Bahia Beach bar overlooks the bay – a mere 42 steps up

We decided to head back to town to try a new place out for happy hour.  We had heard about a local bar called Pops Place which is within walking distance from Fisherman’s Harbor.  We found a breezy table, ordered a couple of drinks and admired the scenery.

Pops Place Bar and Grill

Pops Place Bar and Grill

They must have just caught some fresh fish as there was a bit of a smell coming from the kitchen so we packed up and headed back to the Pirate’s Nest to capture the sunset and the last remaining minutes of happy hour.

Me being silly

Me being silly

Curacao on Foot

Another cruise ship came into Willemstad so we decided to explore on foot and rent a car for tomorrow.  We headed back to Fisherman’s harbor, tied off the dinghy, hopped on the bus, and arrived in Punda around 10am.  Our goal was to explore Otrobanda and Pietermaai since we did not get a chance to see these areas yesterday.  We headed to the Pietermaai district which is considered the “SoHo” of Curacao.  It has a lively environment and rich history with small shops, bars, restaurants, hotels and pretty architecture that creates a lively and cozy neighborhood.

Map of Pietermaai district that would have been helpful to have on our walk - we did not do this entire path, but made up our own.

Map of Pietermaai district that would have been helpful to have on our walk – we did not do this entire path, but made up our own.

Cool art mural found on our Peitermaai walk.

Cool art mural found on our Peitermaai walk.

These houses are used in all Pietermaai marketing.

These houses are used in all Pietermaai marketing.

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Little. rustic cafe hidden on a small street with a covered patio.

Little. rustic cafe hidden on a small street with a covered patio.

Love this bench! If we lived in our house, this would be on our deck.

Love this bench! If we lived in our house, this would be on our deck.

Matt enjoying an ocean breeze after our long, hot walk.

Matt enjoying an ocean breeze after our long, hot walk.

Art sculpture as we were leaving Pietermaai.

Art sculpture as we were leaving Pietermaai.

Although we did not walk around the entire district, we had worked up a sweat and decided to eat at Plein Café Wilhelmina which looked like a fun, lively little place with wifi and a cool breeze.  We ordered a couple of panini’s, some beer, and a typical drink from Curacao.

Curacao drink that looks like the ocean waters.

Curacao drink that looks like the ocean waters.

Now that we were rested, fed, and cooled off a bit, we headed to Otrobanda.  I heard that there was a walking tour and several streets with cool architecture but we just could not find it.  We walked and walked and walked and found ourselves in areas that were not very photo worthy.  Bit of a disappointment but it could easily have been the fact that we did not have a map and might not have been in the right area of Otrobanda.  Before we left town, we did snap a silly photo with some pretty art.


We hopped back on 6A back to Caracasbaai and decided to take the bus to the end which was only 3 bus stops passed ours.  At the end of the route are two high-end beach clubs – the Jan Thiel Beach Club with 4 bars/restaurants and Papagayo Beach Club which is a trendy, upscale resort.  We had heard that the beaches on this side were man-made, but they were still very beautiful. There are also car rentals, boutique shops, and a nice supermarket, Van Der Tweel (it was a lot smaller than the one we found in Bonaire, but equally as nice).  We walked the entire shoreline and scoped out our favorite fancy bar, Zanzibar which offered beer for $7 (we normally pay $2-3), a pretty view, gorgeous beach, and super beautiful atmosphere.

Papagayo Beach Resort.

Papagayo Beach Resort.

Papagayo Beach Resort

Papagayo Beach Resort

Zanzibar Beach Resort.

Zanzibar Beach Resort.