Category Archives: Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

The ABC islands

Northern Curacao: Blue Room, Turtles, & Beaches

We decided that we wanted to explore the North side of the island (the Blue Room in particular) a little more and dragged Steve along for the ride.  He picked us up in his dinghy (since it is on the way) and we hopped on the free grocery bus.  We were then able to walk the short distance to Mickey’s Car Wash and Car Rental where we rented a small car for 55 naf ($30/day) with a two day minimum, which includes all taxes, fees and insurance.

Our little Hyundai i10

Our little Hyundai i10

Today was a day for errands and exploring.  Steve is rebuilding a grinder station and needed to find a machine shop.  He had originally stopped at a place by Napa Auto Parts while we were getting the car, but was redirected to another place called Mechanical Machine Shop Gabriella which happens to be located in the heart of a residential district.  We thought surely we were lost, but low and behold, maps.me directed us right to this hidden gem.  I had no idea what most of the machines were or did, but Matt and Steve were duly impressed.

The nice gentleman took his part and pressed the bearings out of his part.  Sweet!  He also told us where to get new bearings so we headed there next, to Kuzeta.  Unfortunately, after much measuring, researching, and checking inventory in the back they did not have either of the types of bearings Steve needed.  Bummer – but now its time to do something fun.

We wanted to start with the Blue Room since it had eluded us before.  We met a French family who found it on foot and gave us directions so we were determined to find it this time and if not we had a back up plan which was to pay $22 per person to take a tour with Captain Good Life who takes you by boat to the Mushroom Forest, the blue room, black sand beach and lover’s beach.  We drove straight to Playa Santa Cruz and arrived around 11:30 am, we easily found the trail and headed off with our snorkel gear, water, and camera equipment.  It was a fairly easy trail, nice dirt path, and not many cacti to avoid, step over or run into.

Matt & Steve on the initial hike

Matt & Steve on the initial hike

Within about 15-20 minutes we arrived at Playa Pretu which is also called black sand beach.   I will have to admit that the sand is darker than most, but I hesitate to call it “black” as it is really dark brown (in compared to other black sand beaches I’ve visited). None the less it is really pretty and deserted – no other people around.  We only stayed a short while as the blue room was beckoning us.

Playa Pretu

Playa Pretu “Black Sand Beach”

Playa Pretu

Playa Pretu “Black Sand Beach”

Matt found a small trail up a hill and off we went.  This trail was dramatically different from the first part of the trip in that it was small, narrow, ran along the cliff, and had tons of cacti to avoid (both on the ground and above ground).  It was not too terribly difficult in flip flops but it was a little challenging.  Our trusty maps.me app kept us pointing in the right direction until we finally came to the elusive cliffs at the blue room!

As we arrived, a group of four girls were just preparing to jump off the cliff (about 2-3 meters high) so we took our time to gather our gear and equipment before we followed them off the cliff.  Steve jumped in first and Matt tossed his snorkel gear after him, then I joined him.  I am not a fan of heights and jumping off a cliff in my bikini was not on my top 10 list, except I really did want to see the blue room so off I went.

Trying to convince myself to jump.

Trying to convince myself to jump.

Matt soon joined us and we headed into the cave.  The cave was U shaped so the highest entry point is in the center at 1-2′ from the water to the ceiling.  As you snorkel in, you are immediately greeted with the most amazing turquoise blue water.  It was spectacular!  Toward the back was a protruding rock that you could stand on and behind that rock were several schools of fish.  A breathtaking experience!

Entrance to

Entrance to “Blue Room”

​As it was past lunch time, we decided to head back. to the car  We scurried up the cliff and back down the trail – but wait!  We noticed a little intersection that presented us with a nice flat, dirt path about 3 meters wide and the original path we came on (narrow, by the cliffs).  We decided to take the new path which deposited us right back to Playa Pretu.  As we looked around we saw that there are two paths – the one we took to get there that was more challenging up along the coast and the much easier one down a dirt road.  Oh, well, it is an adventure after all.

Easy trail back to Santa Cruz

Easy trail back to Santa Cruz

We arrived back at the car hungry so we headed to Playa Lagun to eat at Bahia.  After we were fat and happy we decided to head back to Playa Piskado which is where we swam with the turtles.  This place is worthy of multiple visits. The majority of the turtles at Playa Piskado are juvenile green turtles.  As juveniles, they are omnivores which means they eat meat as well as plants.  At this beach, they primarily eat fish scraps from the fisherman’s daily catch.  As they get older, they will become herbivores eating mostly sea grass and algae.


Fishermen cleaning fish & feeding turtles

Fishermen cleaning fish & feeding turtles

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Some turtles have names & are tagged.

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

Entrance Playa Piskado: Fun Art

We wanted to squeeze in one last stop before heading back, so we continued north and stopped at Playa Kalki which is in Westpunt at the far northern tip of the island.  This was a new spot for all of us, so we piled out of the car, headed down the short stairwell and were presented with a beautiful little rocky beach with a few palapas, a small eatery, and gorgeous water.  We were running low on time so we did not snorkel here but I made a note to come back at a later date.

Playa Kalki eatery

Playa Kalki eatery

Playa Kalki

Playa Kalki

Just your neighborhood goats crossing the road to get to the other side – somewhere on our drive back into town.

Goat traffic on opposite side of street

Goat traffic on opposite side of street

Conqueror:

  • Jumped off a cliff
  • Swam in a cave

A Hairy Chain and a Hot Hike

Spanish Waters is a relatively big bay with four distinct anchorages and 5 marinas.  Despite the large sailing community in this area, both permanent and transient boats, there is not sufficient water flow within the anchorage which causes significant growth on your bridle and anchor chain.  We had installed a 100 meters of brand new stainless steel chain while moored in Bonaire.  Within a few weeks at our Curacao anchorage we had significant growth.  What does “significant” mean?

Let’s rewind for a minute.  You might recall, we had a bit of a challenging time finding a good place to set the hook when we first arrived.  After several attempts we ended up about 100 meters into one of the many channels but since the winds were blowing 25 kn we decided to stay where we were.  Then we had to let out another 10 meters of chain because another boat anchored too close to our bow so we were even further in the channel. It was not “the main” channel, but a channel none the less.  When we let our chain out another 10 meters we had to pull up the chain to remove the bridle in order to let more chain out and that is when we saw just how bad the growth was.  You could not even see the stainless it was so long and thick. I would have taken a photo, but we were in the midst of re-anchoring and I just couldn’t get to my camera. Matt tried to clean the top part as best he could before we dropped it again.

Fast forward, 6 days later, we finally had a low wind day (blowing 15 kn) and a spot opened up in front of us so we decided to to move the boat.  Which meant we had to pull up all of the chain.  Much to our surprise, it was not as bad as we thought.  The chain that was dangling in the water along with our bridle were of course the worse because the remaining 55 meters rubbed against the sea floor keeping the growth down to a minimum.

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

Clean chain as viewed thru the trampoline

After 6 days, the belly (or kellet) of the chain that hangs in the water already is growing hair.

6 days of growth.

6 days of growth.

Our bridal has been submerged for 3 weeks and check out the long locks on it – can you even see the stainless hook we use?

For our landlubbers, a bridle is used to limit the movement of the boat at anchor.  One line is tied to the starboard bow, another line is tied to the port bow and they are connected by dyneema (a really uber strong line) and stainless steel connectors.  The image below are the two lines and the stainless steel connection point that is hooked on to the anchor chain to limit movement.  Here is an interesting blog with images for anchoring Best Practices for Anchoring.

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where's the stainless?

3 weeks of growth on bridle. Where’s the stainless?

Matt also had to pull up our 2nd fortress anchor that we put out for the storm.  It took him awhile as the anchor had a lot of load on it for several days and he had to pull it up by hand, in strong winds and current.

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Matt pulling up 2nd anchor by hand

Now we are safely anchored inside the anchorage (well technically we are right on the corner), but inside is better than outside.  As soon as we moved a monohull came in and took our old spot – in the channel.

As we look out our boat, just off the starboard side, there is a mountain called Kabrietenberg (or mountain of the goats).  The entire trip is about 5.4 km and the highest peak is 78 meters high – should take a few hours.  We were told that there are a few caves toward the top and a really cool Indian statue next to one of the openings.  So, Matt and I decided to go exploring.  We took the dinghy over to the dock and began our walk.

We walked past Pop’s Place and Fort Beekenburg (which we had already visited on a previous adventure) and the Quarantine House.  In 1874 the area of ​​Caracas Bay was designated as a quarantine station for ships of infectious disease on board. The garrison buildings near the fort were set up as a hospital for sick seamen.  South, on the corner of the bay, in 1883 the observation device for healthy sailors built, the Quarantine Building which is where the sailors had to stay until it was determined that they were not infected. There is a legend that this building is haunted, but if you are interested it is for sell for a mere 270,000 euro.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House on top of hill.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House entrance.

Quarantine House interior.

Quarantine House interior.

We left the quarantine house and rounded  the corner to Tug Boat Beach.  We were so excited to visit this little beach which was named after the tug boat that was accidentally sunk years ago.  A new beach bar was recently built in June by using random parts and pieces around the island.  Unfortunately, we did not bring our snorkel gear and the bar was closed so we will have to come back another time.

Tug Boat Beach.

Tug Boat Beach.

After we left Tug Boat beach we headed up Kabrietenberg mountain with the hopes of finding the caves and our Indian.  It was a relatively easy hike with a small dirt path and lots of cactus to duck, dive, twist and jump over.  We ventured off several smaller trails, came across some beautiful scenic stops with views of Santa Barbara Beach and marina, Spanish Waters, and the ocean.  We found several caves, but no Indian.  Hmph….we must be in the wrong spot or did we miss him?

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Matt found a wee cave to play inside.

Small cave we walked around.

Small cave we walked around.

We decided it would be best if we just kept moving forward instead of circling back as we had already circled most of the mountain.  Not sure we were still on a “path” but we found a walking area by the mangroves and ended up back by the main road.

Our little Indian will have to wait for us, until, we go exploring again.

A New Mate, Marina and Canteen.

A few days after arriving in Spanish Waters, we visited the fuel station at the Curacao Yacht Club.  As we were leaving, a new dinghy pulled up and we introduced ourselves to its captain.  His name is Steve and he is the captain on a boat called Kialoa III which will be staying here for a few months.  After we realized that he had not cleared in, we quickly shared our experiences with Curacao formalities with the hope of sparing him some frustration and time.   He was really nice, so we had hoped to meet up with him later.

We had seen Kialoa III in several races earlier this year and she is a magnificent sailing machine!  Kialoa III was designed by Sparkman and Stephens as a 79ft ketch and built by Palmer Johnson in 1974, before being converted to a sloop in 1976. She held the Sydney to Hobart race record for 21 years and had many victories worldwide – see her various race results.

We ended up meeting with Steve at a happy hour at Pirate’s Nest (which is where most of the boaters can be found between 5p-6p daily).  We invited him over for dinner since he had not been on a boat like ours before.  The day before, Matt had tried out a new recipe that he received from our friends on Contrary Mary – chicken roti!  Matt made the roti bread (similar to a tortilla) and the super scrumptious chicken curry fixins for the inside all from scratch!  It was so spectacular, we ate it two nights in a row.  It was super fun hearing all of his stories.  He is a Kiwi by birth and has traveled all over the world.  His unique talents are highly sought after by many a yacht owners as he is not just a captain, but also a marine genius.  He, like Matt, can fix almost anything.

We decided that we wanted to explore Curacao Marine Ship Yard so the three of us hopped on the 6A bus to Willemstad.  Steve had ridden on the small buses, but this was his first adventure on the big bus (which are pretty darn nice with AC, decent chairs, and turnstiles at the entrance and exit).  For a f1.70 (or $.85) you can ride all the way into town.  Once in town, we pulled up our maps.me app and walked the couple of miles to Curacao Marine.  It was not a direct path and took us through some shabby parts of town (we’d seen this already, but it was new to Steve).  We ended up crossing “the ring” which is the main highway and scampered up a hill to see the yard.

Panorama view of the city from a top our hill.

Panorama view of the city from a top our hill.

Curacao Marine Shipyard and Marina.

Curacao Marine Shipyard and Marina.

Right when we walked in, we noticed a HUGE travel lift that could easily accommodate our boat and even Kialoa III.  This lift had a maximum capacity of 60 tons (to give you an idea of how big that is, we are only 11 tons and Kialoa II is 40 tons).  We toured the yard, took a few photos, visited the main office and ran into a Frenchman who is staying in the marina.  He was very chatty and informed us that the yard had recently went through management changes and life was excellent now!  He said the service was great, they were really friendly and did good work.  He was a a great salesman for the yard and for Curacao.

Curacao Marine Bar.

Curacao Marine Bar.

Huge lift for hauling boats. This is 1 of 2.

Huge lift for hauling boats. This is 1 of 2.

Steve is not a walker but he hung in there with us.  He is an avid mountain biker, runner, and swimmer but walking is not “his thing.”   We were all starving, so after we arrived back in town we needed to get something to eat.  A few weeks ago, Matt and I had walked by a large nondescript building with lots of seating inside and a row of cooks against the back wall.  We made a mental note to come back another time but we soon forgot.  Steve mentioned it during our walk so when we arrived back into town we head to it, Zus di Plaza.  A half dozen vendors line up along one side of the wall creating their specialty menus as customers sit on family style benches to enjoy their feasts.  The 2nd to last booth had arepa di pampuna or pumpkin pancakes so that is where we headed.  As we sat down, we started chatting with 2 locals who were already eating.  Their meal looked so good we decided to order two of our own.  It was a local, white filet fish, with TuTu (a black eyed pea concoction), salad, and mashed potatoes.  Let me tell you—it was fabulous!  We will certainly have to return here soon.

Exterior of Zus Di Plaza - looks nondescript.

Exterior of Zus Di Plaza – looks nondescript.

Interior Zus Di Plaza, before the lunch rush.

Interior Zus Di Plaza, before the lunch rush.

Fish Filet

Fish Filet

Tutu which is black eyed peas mushed with other yummy stuff

Tutu which is black eyed peas mushed with other yummy stuff

As the week progressed we were nearing the finale of the America’s Cup.  Steve is of course rooting for New Zealand (as he is a Kiwi) and we were just interested in seeing these spectacular flying machines.  Since Steve is staying at the Santa Barbara Beach Resort Marina he suggested we meet him at the poolside bar, Splash to watch the event.  When we arrived, he was seated next to a lovely couple who are also staying at the marina (they are American and rooting for Oracle, team U.S.A.).  I was torn, as I wanted America to win but they only had 2 American’s on their team and they weren’t even starting so they really aren’t an American team.  Besides Oracle had won a lot and it was time for a new country to take the win.
We ended up watching the last 3 days (or last 6 races) with Steve up at Splash which was proved to be a really fun outing.  We would swing by the dock, take a dip in the ocean, walk up to the bar, have a snack and some water and enjoy a fun event.

On Sunday, it was a bit of a $h*t show at the dock.  You see, it is free to tie your boat here and anyone can enjoy the beautiful turquoise water and white sandy beach.  The top photo is the dock on any normal weekday and the bottom photo is the weekend.

Week day and weekend shot of Santa Barbara dock.

Week day and weekend shot of Santa Barbara dock.

On Monday, we arrived a little early so we decided to explore the property a little bit.  They have a giant chess game (life size), horse shoes, a yoga platform (also used for weddings), and a beautiful golf course.

Santa Barbara Golf Course.

Santa Barbara Golf Course.

Santa Barbara eating area - can you imagine a romantic dinner here?

Santa Barbara eating area – can you imagine a romantic dinner here?

Stay tuned for more adventures with our new friend Steve.