Category Archives: Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

The ABC islands

Day at the Museum(s)

Feeling a little “jiggy”, I decided to take the dinghy out again.  Matt was still buried deep inside the starboard engine and had plans to stay on board doing boat projects so off I went.

On the 2nd day out, the dinghy ride to shore was uneventful until I got to the dock.  Just as I arrived, the shopping bus dropped a bunch of people off and the dock was packed.  I decided to circle outside the channel to avoid any collisions.  20 minutes later, I was able to head in with little to no issues.  I locked her up to the dock, chatted with a new couple who said they were going to Punda and offered me a ride (sweet).  Unfortunately, I realized I had forgotten my phone (aka camera) and had to go back to the boat to retrieve it.  More practice driving I guess.  Somehow, I managed to get my phone, tie the dinghy up, and still catch the 10 am bus into town – of course I had to run a block screaming, “hold the bus” and they either saw a crazed woman running toward them or heard my cry and let me on.  I was a sweaty panting mess when I boarded so I picked a seat in the back to cool off and recuperate.

I had a lot of places I wanted to see, but my first stop was the bank to get change for some large dollar bills into smaller dollar bills.  After being buzzed inside, I spoke to the armed guard, told him my business and he was not pleased that I didn’t have my passport, but he said I could make a transaction – even without my passport (who walks around with their passport?  I waited for about 15 minutes before it was my turn to ask for $1k in small bills which had to be calculated using my brain and not my phone as no phones are allowed inside the bank.  Good think the old hat rack still works!  The way they handle money is so strange, they fold the bills in half into certain denominations with heads facing all different ways, under their little desk – not in a locked anything – just there.  Wowza.

Anyway, mission accomplished.  Off to the Synagogue Mikve Isrtael-Emanuel (or commonly referred to as “SNOA”) which is the oldest continuously used synagogue in the Western Hemisphere.  There are only 200 members of this synagogue (out of the 160,000 residents on island) and the structure is over 285 years old!  Imagine that!  It was a lovely synagogue, but truth be told it was the first one I had ever visited.  They had sand on the floor for 3 reasons: 1) modeled after many traditional Spanish synagogues; protect the secret Jews who were not supposed to pray and had to muffle the sound of their feet on the floor; and to symbolize what God said “I will multiple your seed as the sands of the seashore and the starts in the heavens.”

I don’t know the names of the parts of the synagogue, so please forgive me for not titling , the photos – but as you can tell the synagogue is meticulously cared for and is stunning.


I do not know what this represents, but it was so beautiful I had to include it in the blog.

Between the synagogue and the museum is a little courtyard where they had these very detailed carved tablets (for lack of a better word).


My next stop was Fort Amsterdam.  We had actually walked by this fort many times as it is in the heart of Punda and had no idea it was actually a fort.  No, we are not dense, we just did not recognize the rebuild of the fort into a government complex.  Sure from up above it is a little more obvious, but we are looking at it from the street and it just looks like yellow buildings.

Fort Amsterdam in the heart of Punda

Fort Amsterdam in the heart of Punda

Fort Amsterdam was built in 1635 by the Dutch West India Company (DWIC)  immediately after they had taken Curacao from the Spanish. They built it on the point (Punda) of the eastern finger of land at the harbor entrance where the territory’s colonial masters lived safely within its confines and throughout the centuries. It served not only as a military fort but also as the headquarters of the DWIC. Currently it serves as the seat of the government and governor of Curaçao. The fort is named after the Amsterdam chamber of the DWIC and was considered the main of eight forts on the island and is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.

Walking entrance into the fort.

Walking entrance into the fort.

My next stop was the Fort Church which was established in 1769 and is currently a Protestant church. The Fortkerk, or Fort Church, was built to withstand siege and has survived in remarkable shape. The only visible bit of damage is a small cannonball embedded halfway into the facade. It was fired by the Captain John Bligh of England, who was attacking Curaçao from his famous ship, The Bounty.

Can you see it in the photo?

Cannon Ball wedged into Fort Church wall

Cannon Ball wedged into Fort Church wall

The church is of modest size, but quite pretty. The roof, painted a deep sea blue, has a clock right in the middle of it.

Fort church ceiling with clock in the center.

Fort church ceiling with clock in the center.

Fort church organ which was donated a century or so after it opened.

Fort church organ which was donated a century or so after it opened.

Fort church organ up close - just because it takes your breath away.

Fort church organ up close – just because it takes your breath away.

Fort Church pulpit.

Fort Church pulpit.

Another curiosity is the Fortkerk’s cistern, found between the church and an alcove that houses a small museum. In the days of siege, a large supply of water was vital, so the church was built in such a way that rainwater would filter through the walls, and collect here.

Fort church cistern.

Fort church cistern.

The church’s adjoining museum is small but packed with history, mostly old maps and portraits. The best piece is the antique clockwork, dating from 1788, which ran the original clock tower.

Beautiful stain glass window in the museum, not tagged so I am not sure who did it or where it came from.

Beautiful stain glass window in the museum, not tagged so I am not sure who did it or where it came from.

Old clock and bell tower

Old clock and bell tower

It’s easy to imagine invading pirates stationed at the mouth of Saint Anna Bay, laying siege to the island, while from the fort, the Dutch defended themselves and their valuable new American property.

Just across the parking lot is the governor’s palace which is both a residence and a place of work. I was not able to go inside but here is a nice website of the history of the governor’s palace.

Governor's Palace which had no entry, used as working and residence.

Governor’s Palace which had no entry, used as working and residence.

Cannon to keep unwanted visitor out of the Governor's Palace.

Cannon to keep unwanted visitor out of the Governor’s Palace.

My last stop for the day was the Kura Hulanda Museum in Otrobanda which just meant I had to cross the Queen Emma floating pontoon bridge to get to it – a short hop and a jump.  The Kura Hulanda Museum is an anthropological museum that focuses on the predominant cultures of Curacao. It offers a world-class chronicle of the Origin of Man, the African slave trade, West African Empires, Pre-Colombian gold, Mesopotamian relics and Antillean art.  They had beautiful sculptures, skeletons, artwork, educational information.  I was heartbroken at how we treated our fellow man, especially when I saw the KKK outfits – I could not even take a photo of it as I know they still exist today and I am horrified.

Entry to museum - greeted by a pretty sculpture.

Entry to museum – greeted by a pretty sculpture.

Ancient tablet

Ancient tablet

There was a small sculpture garden with not much written about the sculptures, but they were fascinating.

I liked these ones in particular – not sure, but they inspired me – especially the one in the front right looking up at the heavens.

This was horrifying - a slave ship dungeon where they kept hundreds of slaves, side by side in 3x3 space for months. It broke my heart at the cruelty of it all.

This was horrifying – a slave ship dungeon where they kept hundreds of slaves, side by side in 3×3 space for months. It broke my heart at the cruelty of it all.

Evolution of man exhibit as man is a descendant from apes.

Evolution of man exhibit as man is a descendant from apes.

I don’t know the meaning of this piece, but it moved me.

Large sculpture in the center of the courtyard.

After my busy day at the museums, I decided to reward myself with an ice cream from Champs where they state “You are 1 minute away from an ice-gasm (see right window). Well, let me tell you it was no Amy’s Ice cream but it was pretty darn good.

After I got back to the boat, we cleaned up and Matt made is amazing pork chops!  I love him so much!

 

Accomplishments:

  • Great day exploring
  • Learned a lot
  • Got a bit of exercise
  • Beautiful sites

Dinghy: Foot Loose and Fancy Free

It might come as a surprise to most, but I am not a qualified dinghy driver.  In fact, when we had our smaller 8 hp outboard I only tried to start it a few times and got frustrated when it would not start as easily for me as it did for Matt (lack of strength, style, something).  So, when we got the 25 hp outboard, I had resigned to never driving.  I mean, really, it’s hard to pull start that sucker (yes, I know men everywhere are laughing out loud).

I had only ventured out on my own once before and that was when I had to go into customs while Matt drove Sugar Shack in circles because there was no room in Cruz Bay, St. John.  It was a very short distance, the motor was already warm and primed and I did not have to do much other than drive straight.  So, here we are many months later and I still have not taken Sweet N Low out on my own.

Until the day came when I really wanted to get off the boat and Matt was up to his eyeballs in grease and boat projects.  I asked him to drop me off and in his infinite wisdom he said it would be better if I just took the dink. Jeeeeesh!  Lots of wining and pouting, I prepared to take the dinghy on my own.  Pumped the little ball (fuel primer bulb), pulled out the choke, took my fighting stance and pulled with all my heart.  Little rumble, pushed the choke back in, pulled again, and again and low and behold it started to rumble!

I love the sound of the 25hp outboard!  After releasing the painter, I started to drift away from the boat, which was good as I did not want to have to put it in reverse-baby steps.  Slowly I circled around and headed toward the dock – downwind is fine, going with the waves and current.  I turned around and Matt waived happily and joyful to have the boat to himself.

The 25 ponies take off.

The 25 ponies take off.

Little worried about my approach to the dinghy dock as there were tons of dinghies there.  Great.  I thought, well, I will go in with balls blazin and wedge myself between a small dink and a medium one, forward motion, head to the bow to maneuver between the dinks and WACK-STOP.  The two short dinks on my left were short tied meaning they were not going anywhere!  If you are boater, you know that you should always tie your dinghy with a long painter to make room for other dinghies coming in – either they are newbies or just not very nice.  Bummer. Circle back and try again.

This time I put it in gear, headed between two other dinks and just as Sweet N Low hit the transom of the medium one, I lept forward with our painter, jumped onto the other dinghy and crawled onto the dock! Success.  I’m sure it was a site to behold as I am in a skort and had arms and legs all over the place.  Tied off, jumped back in my dink to get the lock, my shoes, and the key, then secured her to the dock, and headed to the bus stop!  I am feeling pretty darn proud of myself!

I was heading into town to see Wonder Woman and I am feeling like I should be wearing her costume.  Ok, maybe a bit of an exaggeration!  The movie was spectacular!  I was feeling the girl power all over me as I headed back to the boat.

If you squint, hold image far away & go back 30 years it looks like me in my dreams.

If you squint, hold the photo far away & go back 30 years it looks like me in my dreams.

The ride back is always a wet one as you are going into the wind and waves so I took it slow and easy and arrived just as Sugar Shack turned giving me the perfect landing!

Focus-don't hit the big boat.

Focus-don’t hit the big boat.

Why Didn’t I learn to drive the dinghy before?

  • Matt normally drives, even with cars
  • It can be confusing moving the steering in the opposite direction
  • A bit afraid of drowning

Scutwork, Beach Resort, & a Foresaken Hotel

Since we still had the car, Matt and I decided to pick up some heavy items at a few of the bulk stores.  Our goal was to do some scutwork and then reward ourselves with a visit to Cas Abao beach.  We started out at my favorite place, Kooyman as Matt had seen some hinges on sale and wanted to pick up some Muratic Acid.  Unfortunately, the hinges were gone, but we grabbed the Muratic Acid and headed toward our second stop, Building Depot.

Tom and Bianca suggested we check it out as an alternative to Kooyman.  I was not expecting much as I had just left my new favorite store, Kooyman.  We walked in and gasped at the size of this store.  It was two stories and had to be triple the size of Kooyman.  Think Home Depot, Target, and Bed Bath and Beyond all in one clean and orderly store!  It was immense and I actually got a little lost on the 2nd floor!  We managed to get away with spending less than $100, phew, lucky day.  We will certainly come back here as the prices were reasonable, people were friendly, and just about everything you need is under one roof.

This is 1/3 of this massive building.

This is 1/3 of this massive building.

Each time we visited Kooyman, we passed a place called Roti Mahal.  Since we are both roti fans it became our lunch stop.  As we bellied up to the counter, they were serving a chicken roti and chicken/pasta combo plates so we just said we will take one of each.  We were served quickly and dove right in.  Our meals were a mix of Caribbean flare and Indian and they were packed with flavors!

Matt's pasta chicken plate.

Matt’s pasta chicken plate.

We were on the hunt for large water bottles and could not remember where we purchased them before.  Somewhere, we had found 2 gal jugs that came in a pack of 6, but where was that?  Cost U Less did not have them, so we headed to Best Buy.  Although we did not find our water, we did manage to pick up some other essential items (razors, conditioner, soda).

In an effort to break up our day, we took a break and headed to Cas Abao beach.  We had heard that this is a really beautiful beach with white sand, palapas, and pretty water.  We had passed the entrance several times so we found it with no problem.  There was a $6 entry fee, which was a first for us, but we paid it and headed in.  It was a bit crowded, considering it was not a cruise ship day, but I managed to get a few shots with no people.  We enjoyed a nice stroll on the beach and a cold beverage as a little yellow bird entertained us.

Cas Abao entrance makes a statement

Cas Abao entrance makes a statement

Matt seeking out a quiet spot.

Matt seeking out a quiet spot.

Friendly bird visited us--called her Cathie!

Friendly bird visited us–called her Cathie!

On the way back from Cas Abao, we decided to stop at Santa Martha Baai as this is one of the other anchorages we are allowed to visit with the big boat.  We wanted to check it out by car before we picked up anchor and moved Sugar Shack to a new location (even if it were only for a few days which is what we are allowed).  All I can say is “thank goodness” we checked it out first.  There is no bus stop so we would be pretty isolated (which also means no internet).  The water was pretty shallow, the channel was super narrow, and there were no other sail boats around.  Probably not the anchorage for us

Santa Martha Baai

Santa Martha Baai

After leaving Santa Martha Baai, Matt had noticed an abandoned hotel on maps.me so we decided to check it out!  For some reason, I am drawn to these types of places even though it makes me so sad.  The Sunset Waters Resort (this is a link back when it was open and gorgeous).  It lies on a beautiful stretch of beach, which is private to the hotel, there is a separate building which was probably a restaurant, restrooms, and water sports area.  The actual resort had a large swimming pool, swim up bar, and Jacuzzi.  Each room had ocean views with balconies and were of a decent size.

Sunset Waters Resort in her hey day.

Sunset Waters Resort in her hey day.

It has been forsaken since 2009 due to financial problems and everything has been stripped, graffiti is peppered on the walls, foliage is all overgrown, and trash liters the site.  This is what it looks like now – Sunset Waters Resort .

Sunset Waters Resort today with no roof

Sunset Waters Resort today with no roof

Sunset Waters Resort pool all dilapidated. .

Sunset Waters Resort pool all dilapidated. .

Our next stop was a new store called Centrum Grocery Store.    Steve had told us about this store and it was pretty darn nice.  Again, we went in looking for water and came out with spices, jalapenos, diet gingerale and a few other necessities. Still in need of water, we hit Goisco.  As you might recall, I was pretty impressed with Goisco, but today, after visiting Centrum, Best Buy, and Cost U Less I realized that all of these stores are amazing for different reasons.  Still did not find our bottled water, but we managed to fill up a few more bags.

You see, we use Pepper Plate which is a food app and keeps your shopping list on our phone. When we go shopping we take things off our list as we find them and leave the missing items on our list – you can never seem to find everything at one store when it comes to groceries.  Probably like going to Whole Foods, Vons/Randalls, and the Farmer’s Market.

Feeling a little defeated about our water acquisition, we headed back to the boat.  Luckily, I saved all of our receipts, so I looked up where we bought them last month so we could head there in the morning – it was Cost U Less!

Always good to feel accomplished

  • Errands
  • Discovery