Category Archives: Daily Lime

Kwajalein, a Remote U.S. Army Base

The U.S. Navy has hosted a Naval base on Kwajalein (Kwaj for short) since WWII (1950’s). Since then and continued today, the Navy base is widely used for all sorts of missile tests.  It is part of the Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defense Test Site, with various radars, tracking cameras, missile launchers, and many support systems spread across many islands. One of the five ground stations used in controlling the operation of the Global Positioning System (GPS) navigation system is located on Kwajalein.

Kwajalein atoll is one of the largest atoll in the world and has a 90+ small islands surrounding the world’s largest lagoon which covers 2,174 sq. kilometers (839 sq. miles).  It is home to many wrecks from WWII including over 160 planes and more than 25 ships.

Photo by underwaterkwaj

Photo by underwaterkwaj

How to Visit Kwaj

Kwajalein (Kwaj) is very difficult to visit.  Here are the many steps we had to take to get approved for a visit. 

  1. Identify a sponsor.  The sponsor is 100% responsible for you during your visit.  This includes your actions, behavior and expenses.  The sponsor is responsible for any and all medical treatment including evacuation.
  2. Complete the USAG-KA 480 form
  3. Answer a lengthy list of questions.
  4. Pass the background check.
  5. Obtain medical evacuation insurance.
  6. Solidify the dates of your visit.

It took me 3 months to find someone who was interested in sponsoring us.  He was apprehensive at first because he did not know us.  However, he spoke to our friends on Hoptoad who told him we were good people.

Photo by USGS.gov

Photo by USGS.gov

The Plan to Visit Kwajalein

In December through February we were sailing in the northern atolls. We thought we could sail down to Kwaj then try to find a way to sail to Majuro.   We requested our visiting period to be 1/28-2/20. 

Our plan was to arrive late January, stay for a few days, then use three weeks in February to get back to Majuro.  The problem is that the passage is almost due east (into the wind/seas).  We mapped out alternatives such as Kwaj to Rongerik to Majuro and Kwaj to Likiep to Majuro.  Each option added hundreds of miles to our return trip back.

I started getting anxious because I had to be back in Majuro to catch my flight back to the states.  The chances of a good weather window occurring is rare and unusual.  We were gambling.  

We decided to wait for the approval until the 29th January. That would give the government 2 weeks to approve the application.  We did not hear anything on the evening of the 28th January. So, we made ready to depart Alinginae and head direct to Majuro on this weather window.

And wouldn’t you know it, the approval came on the 29th while we were at sea.  It was too late to change our trajectory.

Such a Disappointment

We both had really wanted to visit this unique atoll and military base.  But it was not meant to be.  Our sponsor was incredibly kind and understanding.  We felt horrible because our sponsor put in a lot of effort and time into our application.

What Can you do on Kwaj

  • Hear about the rich history of Kwaj. 
  • Visit the monuments around the island. 
  • We needed to get fuel, propane, and provisions. 
  • The cool factor of visiting an active military base.
 

Fun link: Underwater Kwaj: www.underwaterkwaj.com/Marshalls.htm  

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind live events.  We tried to go to Kwaj in early February 2025.

We blogged about our passage between the two island chains. Check it out.

The Abundant Treasures of Alinginae

We had so much fun exploring the outer islands of Alinginae. We walked 10 islands and found some great treasures.

The first island we visited was Ucchuwanen Island.  Our friend told us he found lots of glass floats here.  We ended walking over 5 miles, searching through the bush, rocks, and debris.

We found one 6” float, one rolling pin, and 9 various sizes of small floats.  It was a big haul out for us!  Read about the origin of glass floats in our blog “Rare Japanese Glass Floats.”

Animal Treasures

A large coconut crab hid inside a dead tree stump. 

These coconut crabs taste absolutely delicious.  However, we let this one live despite our desire to have him for dinner.

A log of birds, bird nests, and babies can be found on several islands. 

I love this fuzzy baby bird.  His mama sat on him to keep him warm and happy.

Remnants of a whale washed ashore on the windward side of the island.  It was a heartbreaking find.  The head, jawbone, ribs, vertebras, and jaw were laying on the beach.

Whale carcass on Alinginae

Whale carcass on Alinginae

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events. 

We visited Alinginae in late January.  Our last blog post has a lot of gorgeous photos of Alinginae’s waters.

The Blues of Alinginae

The Blue Hues of Alinginae

Alinginae is a relatively small, uninhabited atoll. There are only 25 islands that total 2.8 square kilometers (1.1 sq. mile) that enclose a lagoon of about 105 square kilometers (40.91 sq. miles). Its location has the atoll positioned east to west making it hard for cruisers to go there as there is not much protection from the tradewinds.  We  were the 4th boat to visit the atoll in 6 years.  A true pleasure and adventure for us.

Only yachties get to visit this pristine atoll as there is no other way to get here.

Ailinginae supports habitats and species that are otherwise vanishing from earth. At present Ailinginae’s continued protection is essential for the survival of many species and habitats and related natural and cultural values in the Marshall Islands.

In Route to Alinginae

Our sail from Rongelap to Alinginae was gorgeous!   During the passage, we had 1-1.5-meter seas coming from aft of the boat.  The winds were a modest 15-17kts making this a downwind sail.  We put our large parasail (170 sq meters).  She is such a pretty sail!

A strange thing happened about half way through our passage.  A number of birds circled the boat looking for lunch.  But one strange bird got tired and landed on the boat.  In the past, several birds have landed on the boat and rested.  But they usually land on the life lines or the bow peaks.  Today’s silly bird landed on the mouth of our spinnaker.  He only stayed for 10-minutes.

We arrived Alinginae after a 6-hour sail, dropped the hook and enjoyed a stunning sunset.

Sugar Shack anchored at Bokoryuren Island.  We take the dinghy 3 miles in each direction to explore more islands.

We were the 4th boat to visit Alinginae over the past 6 years. Can you believe that?  This atoll is difficult to get to.  But it is really pretty!

Beautiful Blue Hues

The color of Alinginae’s lagoon are a variety of blue hues.  Simply breathtaking!

The islands are lush and teaming with wildlife.

Our blog runs 4-6 weeks behind actual events. 

We stayed in Alinginae during the last part of January 2025. 

Don’t miss out on the beautiful sunsets and sunrises of Rongelap – read our last blog post.