Monthly Archives: February 2021

Tikehau Anchorage

Tikehau Tranquility

We visited Tikehau last year and frankly, it was not one of our favorite atolls in the Tuamotus.  However, we did not really give it a fair chance.  The weather was horrid and we ended up hiding inside our boat at one anchorage during most of our stay (blog post 12/2019).  So, we decided to return to Tikehau on our way through the Tuamotus.

After our wonderful sail from the Society Archipelago, we had a smooth entrance through the pass and headed straight for our anchorage.  There is only one channel inside the lagoon which starts at the pass and ends at the village.  The rest of the lagoon is littered with bommies and small motus that pop up in random places.  In order to traverse the lagoon, you have to constantly monitor the charts and have a look out.  The photo below shows Sugar Shack at the pass anchorage (the red arrow), then the channel pink lines with red markers (that look like “i”) down to the village.

Tikehau Navionics Chart

Tikehau Navionics Chart

We ended up anchoring about 1 mile from the village at the first orange anchor. After the channel ended we navigated our way to an anchorage in front of the Pearl Beach Resort Tikehua.  Our friends on Jolly Dogs, Maple, and Moggy were here as well. 

Exploring the Motus

Matt and I had great fun exploring the surrounding motus in search of sea treasures.  Each motu is unique but they all share basic characteristics.  They are fairly flat, covered in coral, little bit of sand, and lots of coconuts.

The first motu we came to actually had this really pretty pinkish sand.  When the sun shone on the sand it would turn maroon, brown, and a little orange.  Really pretty.

In between the motus are little rivers or pools of water that flow from the Pacific to the lagoon.  Top photo shows us at one motu, overlooking the water between to another motu with the boats at anchor behind.

The water inside the Tikehau lagoon is really warm, like bath water.  Which is super fun, but not as refreshing as you’d like on a hot day.

Motu Tohuarei

After a few days at the Pearl Beach Resort anchorage we picked up the hook and headed to a new motu.  Only 3nm away, yet it feels like a new world.    This pretty little spit of land is literally in the middle of the lagoon surrounded by its own reef.

Matt breaks out the drone to give you a bird’s eye perspective.  Truly beautiful.

Tikehau Anchorage

Tikehau Anchorage

We explore the motu and snorkel all over the reef which are teaming with schools of fish and coral.

Blessed with a beautiful sunset each night.

Pass Anchorage

It was hard to leave considering we had this little motu all to ourselves.  However, it was time for us to head to the pass anchorage to prepare for our departure from Tikehau.  We took a new route across the lagoon instead of backtracking.  Sugar Shack have 3 sets of charts and me at the bow as a look out – so why not.

On the way, we passed by another little motu called Motu Mauu which would have been fun to anchor at if we had time.  Super pretty with lots of coral and fish around it.

Always on the look out for the bommies which can be small bits of land sticking out or coral heads just under the surface. The one in the photo was pretty easy to spot, but some are super hard to see if the sun is not just right.

Bommie hiding under the water surface

Bommie hiding under the water surface

7nm later we arrived to the pass anchorage where 9 other boats were located.  So much for the peace and quiet.   The good news is our friends on Hoodoo are here along with a lot of birds!

We enjoy snorkeling the pass and doing slow drifts with the incoming tide.  The pass is full of lots of fish including a huge school of barracudas, tons of puffers, a few eels, and flounders.

We are so glad we came back to Tikehau.  The tranquility of this little atoll (during good weather) was amazing.  The warm waters, friendly people, and pretty motus were wonderful to explore.

Events from this blog post occurred around the 3rd week of November, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

The Perfect Sail to Tekihau

Wowza!  We had truly one of the best trips under sail!  We left Opunohu Bay, Mo’orea at 0500 for the 175nm journey to Tikehau.  This trip takes us from the Society Archipelago to the Tuamotus Archipelago over the course of 26 hours.  We had been waiting for a good weather window for 10-12 days and seized this one.  We needed either northerly or southerly winds to take us east, preferred no rain, no thunder or lightening, and low swell.  Not much to ask for considering the prevailing winds come from the NE :).

Matt and I are up before dawn to ready the boat for the sail.  We lift the anchor and are underway by 0500 and the sails are out by 0530 as we exit the Opunohu Bay pass.  We have a gorgeous sunrise send off including a sneak peak at Adromeda Motor Yacht.  Adromeda is a107 meter expedition that was built in 2016 and has a crew of 43 people!  Check out her tender which is larger than Sugar Shack!

Teti’aroa in Passing

Our direct route has us crossing over and through Teti’aroa (aka Marlon Brando’s Island).  Clearly we can’t do that so we have to divert off course to go around this pretty picturesque island.  Just a few weeks before we pass this small atoll, Kim Kardashian celebrated her 40th birthday to the disgust of many of her fans (being that we are in the middle of a pandemic and they didn’t follow any protocols).  We didn’t stop here this time past the island.

If you are interested in learning about the history of Teti’aroa, check out our blog post.  And if you’d like to check out our visit to Brando island, check out this blog post.

Brando Island

Brando Island

As we are leaving the lee of Teti’aroa we came across a rather smelly fishing vessel.  Love how the birds feast on the left overs.

We had a perfect sail with winds coming out of the ENE at 10-14kts, less than a .05-meter swell, no rain, no squalls, and an average boat speed of 7kts.  Pretty good for us!  The sunset was amazing all is well as we enter the evening portion of the passage.

A Sail at Night

Navigation is imperative on all passages.  However, you tend to rely on it more at night when you lose sight from the dark.  We utilize a lot of instruments to keep us on track.

Our Raymarine keeps track of our True Wind Speed (TWS) 10.8, depth (showing at zero as its too deep in the middle of the ocean), Speed over Ground (SOG) 6.7, Distance to Waypoint (DTW) 45.95, Cross Track (XTE) -5.84 (shows we are off course which occurred during a small squall), and Heading 046T.  This is where we control our autopilot.

The B&G chart has a wealth of information.  This and the radar screens are what I use most.  This particular screen has (down left side): Boat Speed, TWA: True Wind Angle, AWA: Apparent Wind Angle,, TWS: True Wind Speed, and TWD: True Wind direction.  The center column is our directional map.  The far right has SOG: Speed over Ground, COG: Course over Ground, POS: position, Depth, Steer, and WPT: Waypoint.  The large circular diagram in the middle shows you the boat, the apparent wind (large triangle upper right), true wind (smaller triangle upper right), swell/current (center of boat arrow 1.3) and steerage (red hour glass in red area).

Then of course we have our mapping charts.  We use three different charting systems.  The handheld Garmen GPS has one chart, the iPad has Navionics, and the computer has Open CPN. All tracking us and telling us where to go.

Fishing

We had three lines in the water and one teaser.  We were so hopeful to catch something as we had not been able to fish for awhile.  A large silver fish bit the hook and went running in the opposite direction of the boat. We were under full sail and couldn’t slow the boat down fast enough.  We headed into the wind and started bringing in the other 3 lines but by the time Matt got back to the fish he had either wiggled off the hook or the hook ripped out of his mouth due to our boat speed.  So sad!

Birds are always circling our lures.  Poor silly creatures think they are edible and always try to catch them.  One unlucky bird dove down to grab the lure and got caught up in our line.  Poor thing was dragged behind the boat for a few minutes before we realized what was going on.  It squawked at us.  Matt tried to pull it in but she got off before getting too close to the boat.  Top photo has the bird and the line comes in from the left side of the photo.  Bottom photo has arrows to show you the bird and line/lure.

So, that is 1-caught and lost, 1-caught and released and 0-onboard.

Land A’Ho

About 12nm from Tikehau, the winds divert our sail.  We get pushed off track and end up having to motor sail the last 4/5nm to the pass.  Not terrible considering we have sailed the other 170+nm.  We carefully navigate the pass as we have missed the optimal slack tide.  However, we did not have any issues coming in .

Navionics showing the pass

Navionics showing the pass

The pass was relatively calm and super pretty!

Tikehau Pass

Tikehau Pass

We have several friends who are anchored near the Pearl Beach Resort Tikehau so we head to the south side of the atoll.  It is about 1.5 hours across the lagoon to the anchorage spot.  Super purdy!  We drop the hook a short distance from the resort.

Pearl Beach Resort Tikehau

Pearl Beach Resort Tikehau

Passage Details:

  • Mo’orea to Tikehau
  • Miles to Dest. 175nm
  • Actual Miles Sailed: 188nm
  • Average Speed: 7.0
  • Max Speed: 11.1
  • Total Moving Time to Pass: 26 hours
  • Total Moving Time to Anchorage: 27:46

Events from this blog post occurred on 17/18 November 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

What’s Inside Sugar Shack?

We have posted bits and pieces of our beautiful home in each blog, but I am not sure we have ever dedicated a blog post to showcasing the interior of Sugar Shack.  So, why not now?  As Matt loves to say “pourquoi pas?”  I will try to explain as much as I can without putting you to sleep so if you have any questions, please send them in the comment sections.

You board Sugar Shack by either the port or starboard sugar scoops.  A sugar scoop is the nautical term for the aft (transom) which has “swim steps.”  It is easiest to board on the starboard side as we have hand holds and cleats to tie off guest dinghies.

On the top step is a hatch that leads to each engine room.  The engine room is large enough for Matt to work all around the engine (front, back, sides).  The front is a little challenging to get to as he has to lay across the top of the engine to get to it, but he manages.

The Cockpit

We can operate all of the lines and sail the boat from the cockpit.  The only time we have to go forward, while underway, is when we launch or take down the spinnaker.  Most of our life is spent in the cockpit: happy hours, passages, reading, dining, and hanging out. 

The beautiful teak table opens up and doubles its size easily seating 8 people for dinner.  In addition, the table itself is storage for most of our fishing gear and tackle.   

There is also storage in each of the floor hatches.  The one under the table has a spare outboard, spare anchor, drogue, and lots of other “stuff.”  The other hatch has all of our snorkel gear, cleaning products, boat towels, and drinks.

We have “pockets” installed to hold miscellaneous stuff that tends to muck up the cockpit (lines, hoses, scrub brushes, etc…).  You can see here that all the lines come to the cockpit.  The main electric wench, main halyard operates back stay, 3-foward reefing lines, 3 aft reefing lines. The two smaller wench handles operate the dinghy lines and main sheets.

Of course, we have our two helms on port and starboard.  The starboard helm is the “main” operating helm as it has the engine controls. However, both helms have instruments, autopilot controls, and a steering wheel to operate the boat.  We take lots of photos from the helm looking out and at the helm.

The Salon

There is a large glass door and glass window that remain open 98% of the time. The exception is when we are away and/or asleep.  This lets the outside in and brings the two areas into one. (upper right photo).  The salon has super soft alcantera seating in a U shape that allows for fun movie or game nights.  There is lots of storage under each of the settees (cushion seats) for our house batteries, canned goods, pots, pans, inverter/charger, etc…

The inside table also flips open and doubles its size.  This is a great place to do our sewing projects.  Under the table is another storage unit for glasses and a few select liquor bottles.  And below that is a large drawer for large, paper maps and charts.

Navigation and Control Center

The nav station where we set our course, monitor conditions, and operate the boat while underway.  It is the heart of the boat while navigating.  However, the heart of the monitoring is our CZone control panel which tells us everything from battery state and amp usage, to controlling “everything” electronic on the boat.  It is the main control panel.  We have it in triplicate.  You can access the control panel here or on Matt’s ipad or on the small control panel in the master suite.

The Galley (Kitchen)

The galley faces aft (back) which is great as it allows the chef to chat with guests in the cockpit.  We have a decent oven (smaller than U.S. ovens), which allows me to bake until my heart is content.  We have a 3-burner propane stove, a 200-liter refrigerator (which can also operate as freezer) and a 100-liter freezer (which can also operate as a refrigerator).  Storage above each counter and below the sink.

Portside Hull

The port side or guest side, has two cabins and a shared head (bathroom).  The hall is full of tons of storage on each side of the hallway.  We have one tool cabinet, one towel cabinet, one foul weather gear cabinet, 1 tupperware cabinet, and two pantries. 

The port head is rather small but functional.  We usually have our guests shower in the master head or off the back of the boat.  The shower in this head is the sink faucet which pulls out.  It just tends to get everything wet.  Not a big deal as it is meant to be all wet, but really its just easier to have guests shower in the large head or off the back of he boat.

The aft cabin is a special option by Catana where it is called an “office/cabin.”  You can set it up as an office with a double bed or you can fold up the bed (to twin size) and use the cabin as an office.  It too has lots of storage behind the bed, under the floor boards, under the bed, and to the side of the bed (another pantry behind the curtain).

The forward cabin is the most comfortable guest cabin as it has a huge escape hatch that lets in tons of air, another large window, a closet, and a storage shelving unit for clothing.

Starboard Hull

The starboard hull is the “owners’ cabin” which means it only has one cabin, lots of storage and a huge head (bathroom).  It is another option Catana offered.  This is where you can clearly see I have “nested.”

Most of the décor is from the islands, but some I brought with me from the U.S.  Yes, I have put double sticky tape on most of the items so they don’t fall over while we are underway.  We are a catamaran which means that we are more stable than monohulls, but we are still a sailboat and $hit can go flying.

The hallway leads to the master head which is large and airy.  We have a full stand up shower (which is separated from the toilet and sink by a curtain).  This is a luxury as most heads are one space (like our port side).

The hallway has tons and tons of storage.  We have 3 cabinets for hanging clothes, set of shelves for Matt’s folded clothes, another cabinet for my folding cloths, 2 cabinets for electronics and a washer/dryer.

Under all of the floor boards is more storage.  We keep our medical kit, emergency evac bag, dried goods, spare liquor, milk, juice, filters, here.  In addition, the water tanks can be accessed from the floor boards.

Exterior Storage

We also have lots of storage on the outside of the boat.  At the mast, or the center of the boat we have 4 compartments.  We have two fuel tanks (one for each engine) and two large hatches.  We store our dock lines, spare fuel tanks (gasoline and diesel), extra anchor chain, main anchor chain, exterior hose and more in these two areas.

Each bow peak also has storage.  The starboard bow peak stows our 3 spare spinnakers, 2 lounge chairs, 2 bean bags, luggage and noodles. The port bow peak stows all of our fenders, anchor “pearl” floats, passerelle (gangplank), spare cushions, spare ceiling panels, and life jackets.

Sugar Shack

Our beloved Sugar Shack, a Catana 471 has been an amazing sail boat and home for us.  We have enjoyed being her 3rd owner for the pat 10 years and look forward to many more years and tons more miles under the keel.  I’d say the reason I love her most is because she is a sturdy, well-made, strong, safe boat.  This boat makes me feel safe while underway and comfortable while at anchor.  Sugar Shack offers tons of storage, wonderful air flow, and modern conveniences without compromising her performance.  She points well into the wind, she handles big seas amazingly, and she still looks great for being a 20-year-old broad.

More fun photos

Sugar Shack looking down

Looking down Sugar Shack 

Lounging on the bow tramp

Lounging on the bow tramp

For more photos of Sugar shack visit this link.

We are blessed to be able to have this experience and to live on Sugar Shack.  Thank you for coming along our journey with us.  Stay tuned for more fun adventures.

You can check out other Catana 471…most of these are newer than our boat, but still gorgeous.  These are friends of ours.