Monthly Archives: October 2020

The Marvel of Maupiti

Maupiti is so exquisite that we treated ourselves to a long stay.  The waters are just stunning. With blues ranging from a clear, turquoise blue, to dark blue and with many various shades in between.  The people are lovely, the town is quaint and there are both land and water sports to entertain us.

Matt and I went to explore Motu Tuanai which is a rather large motu with the small airport.  It was a blustery day with rain sprinkled in to keep it interesting.  We left rather late in the afternoon so we knew it would be a short exploration.  The beach is really nice and there are super cool inlets that fill up with the rising tide.

Walk About

Matt and I decided we wanted to take a walk to stretch our legs.  Maupiti is pretty flat all around with the exception of one rather large hill.  We decided to walk the long way around which was flat toward Chez Mimi.  We saw this cute little eatery on our bike ride and wanted to come back when it was open.  It was a 3.5 mile walk on a flat, well paved road.  We stopped along the way to admire the magasins and views.

Chez Mimi is on the beach.  It is a quaint little eatery run out of the local’s home.  We were the first to arrive at 11:00, but we brought our hunger one!  Matt ordered poison cru and I had a ham sandwich.  Not bad.

A different route back

We took a different route on the way back. We wanted to walk along the ridge, up and over the mountain.  However to get there we had to cross a local’s property. We walked up the large paved hill to get to the entrance to the trail. When we got there, the local who lived by the entrance told us it was not cleared and we could not go.  Drat.  But we did have pretty views from the top of the hill.

Maupiti view from the top of the hill

Maupiti view from the top of the hill

Maupiti has several magasins but they are all counter service.  Meaning you walk up to the counter and tell them what you want.  The problem is with our inability to speak French.  But Google Translate works and we are good at pointing and sharing photos of products.  You take for granted how nice it is to be able to roam among the products while in the States.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

Celebration of Life: Eddie

We met the boat “September AM” in Tahuata a few months ago.  Onboard was Barbara and Harry and their two kids Eddie and Amelie.  Super sweet and amazing family.  Eddie and Amelie are both musicians and are very passionate about sharing their love of music.  Eddie was brilliant, compassionate, inquisitive, kind, helpful, and a truly genuine soul.

Several months after we met them, we ran into them in Papeete Marina where I introduced them to my sister.  However, we left shortly thereafter to begin the Konis Tour.  September AM had decided to move over to Mo’orea for the weekend which is only a short 25nm sail.  When they dropped the hook in Oponohu Bay tragedy struck. 

Tragic Accident

Cruisers swim on their anchor – it is a common practice and frankly, an expected one.  What does that mean?  After you drop the hook, you jump in the water to make sure the anchor is buried and not encumbered by anything (bommies, pipes, etc…).  Notably, this helps ensure your boat is secured and safe and protects the environment.

Eddie, a 14-year old son, brother, and crew member of September AM jumped into the water to check their anchor.  It is something he has done hundreds of times in dozens of anchorages.  He was a mere 2 meters away from the boat when a rented, speeding, motor boat, driven by a distracted tourist ran over Eddie. 

One, the tour boat company does not require any special license to rent or drive the boat.  Two, the tourist was unfamiliar with boating protocols (you don’t drive that close to anchored boats) or speed in those areas.  Three, the driver was not paying attention to the waters, but was chatting with a female companion.  In other words, a cataclysmic accident.  As a result, the Polynesian government opened a wrongful death investigation 5 days after the accident.  Not sure why it took 5 days to open. Hopefully, justice will be served.

Eddie did not survive this accident, but the memory of his beautiful soul will live on forever.

Celebration of Life: Eddie

The family decided to have a celebration of life Polynesian surfer style.  What does that mean?  People gather on the water, form a circle, hold hands, say prayers, share memories, and the release flowers into the sea.  This is called a Polynesian Paddle Out.

There was one small problem.  The family was located in Papeete, Tahiti. Cruisers everywhere wanted to celebrate with them.  So, we spread the word on Social Media, local media, and SSB nets.

We asked that everyone share photos from their celebration so the family could see the overwhelming show of love and support.  It is truly a blessing to see the cruising community come together for those in need. 

Photos from Maupiti (where Matt, Yannel, Missy and I) were located

We had a few local ladies from the church say a prayer and sing a beautiful Polynesian song just before releasing the flowers.

Cruisers made floral reefs, floral necklaces, boats, floats, and arrangements.  All dedicated during the ceremony.

Papeete had the largest crowd of well over 100 people. Respecting the social distancing and wearing masks.

People held Celebrations at:

  • Sandwich Bay, England
  • Papeete, French Polynesia
  • Mo’orea, French Polynesia (Cook’s Bay and Oponohu Bay)
  • Raiatea, French Polynesia (two anchorages)
  • Maupiti, French Polynesia
  • Huahine, French Polynesia (South and North Bay)
  • Taha’a, French Polynesia
  • Tahuata, Marquesas, French Polynesia
  • Marshall Islands
  • Isla San Marcos, Mexico
  • San Blas, Guna Yala, Panama
  • Bocas, Panama
  • United Kingdom
  • Malolo Lailai Island, Fiji
  • Bay of Virgins, New Zealand
  • South Coast France
  • Marazion, Cornwall
  • New Caldonia
  • Liencres, Spain
  • Hermosa Beach, California
  • San Diego
  • San Francisco
  • Seattle

In addition to the celebration of life, the family had the casket designed and drawn by a local tattoo artist.  – Mana’o Tattoo Studio Tahiti who stepped up at the last minute to create this amazing tribute on his casket.  The symbols and designs represent Eddie’s life, dreams, and interests.

Equally important, the family created a Just Giving Page to help raise $15,000 to transport the casket and his body back home to the U.K.  The family will use any additional monies to create a fund to help children with education and music.  Please contribute.

Together with the support of the local community, their friends and family and the cruising community, the family was able to raise enough money (15,000 euros) to bring Eddie’s body home.

Here Is a link to the video of the TV interview in French Polynesia

Instead of focusing on this horrific accident, we are rejoicing in his life and the fact that the cruising community came together for this family.

Remembering Eddie…after all it is about loving thy neighbor. In the hope that we all can change, be aware, be careful, and respect the water.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

The Stunning Island of Maupiti

Maupiti is a luscious, remote island located 27nm west of Bora Bora.  We had always hoped to visit this lovely piece of paradise but were unable to make it happen until now.

Maupiti Island

Maupiti Island

We visited the Society Archipelago (where Maupiti is located) last year but did not have time to navigate to this distant island.  An opportunity arose after we dropped off my family at the Bora Bora airport.  This island has a challenging pass to enter and depart the lagoon.  It is known to be difficult as you cannot enter when the winds are close to 20kts, or when there is a 2+ meter swell or if winds are coming from the south.  The prevailing winds come from the south a lot.

Where the pink and red lines meet is the entrance of the pass.  The green ships are other boats on AIS and the blue area is the channel from the pass to the village. 

Mauipiti

Mauipiti

This is a good photo of the island with all the motus around it.  You can see the one pass at the bottom of the island/photo.

Mauipiti

Mauipiti

Traveling to Maupiti

However, we picked a travel day with virtually no wind (2-5kts) coming from the east with less than a meter swell.  We arrived promptly at 1130 and on the approach swallowed hard as we noticed the huge swell breaking on the reef.  The photo below shows the reef and the small pass entrance and then the reef again.

From the photo below, you can clearly see the reef on either side of the small pass.  It is a tricky one.

Pass from high view point

Pass from high view point

A few locals were fishing off the reef of the pass indicating just how calm it was when we entered.

Pass to enter the lagoon

Pass to enter the lagoon

Once we lined up the two markers and put the boat in the center of the pass we only encountered 1kt of outgoing current.  It was smooth as silk!  We hung a left and picked up a mooring just outside the pass and close to the manta ray cleaning station (more on this later).

Our friends on Hoodoo showed up an hour later and decided it would be a drinking day!  It was great fun catching up with Yanell and Missy!

Hiking to the Top Mount Teurafaatiu

There are several towering mountain peaks that scream for our attention.  We started out around 0930 and easily found what we thought was the start of the trail.  We were using maps.me and gps coordinates from a previous cruiser.  Locals had marked the trail with 3 lines: white, red, white.  However, somewhere at the beginning of the hike we got on another trail marked with red, black, yellow.  Hmmm…well it is still a trail so we continued on.

It was almost straight up the mountain, over rocks, under trees, and with the use of a few climbing ropes on the slippery parts.  The boys forged ahead while Missy got stuck with me lagging behind (poor thing).  But, we caught up to the boys maybe 7-8 minutes behind them.

Missy (Hoodoo) and I

Missy (Hoodoo) and I

The top offered spectacular views of the lagoon, pass, and outer motus.  We also found several other trails that needed to be conquered.

The views are just amazing from the top.

Always wanting to mix it up, we traversed down the opposite side of the mountain and found the original white, red, white trail!  This trail going down was very well marked.  It is more exposed to the sun so it was also drier and easier going down.  Interesting.  Oh well, new sights and adventures.

  • Miles Hiked: 5.1
  • Steps:  13,221
  • Flights Climbed: 90 floors
  • Elevation: 1250

Bike Ride Around the Island

Missy and Yanell have fold up bikes so Matt and I rented bikes for 1,000xpf ($10) per day.  The island is not very big, a total of 7 miles all the way around, but we did manage to go down every road, dead end, and dirt path.  There Is one huge hill with a 21% incline and a 20% decline.  I walked down part of the hill as the brakes on my biked slipped.  However, the brave ones rode down the hill.

On the west side of the island we found a beautiful beach and park with the prettiest turquoise waters.

Palace by the Sea

On The way back, we stumbled across the Le Palais de la Mer (Palace of the Sea) which was incredibly beautiful.  One man has been working on the Palace by the Sea for over 20 years.  He offers tours for $20/pp which seems expensive but our friends said it was worth it.  He provides entertainment, free hand weaved palm front hats, shell jewelry, and coconut champaign.

Photo taken and posted by Les Deux Peids Dehors.

Petroglyphes

We found a sign that read “Petroglyphes.”  Superb!  We turned down the road (in Haranae Valley) and followed the trail.  

Fun Photos

Me enjoying being princess for a moment as Missy and Yanell pull Sweetie across some shallow waters.

Town markers around the island.  

Sunset and sunrise photos in Maupiti are simply stunning.

One morning I captured the sunrise and the moon (see top photo)

History of Maupti

  • Population: 1200
  • Living on 4.2 square miles
  • Technically an atoll with an island in the center (meaning it is an older island)
  • Highest peak is 1250’
  • Primary economy is noni production
  • There are ancient Polynesian archaeological artifacts dating from at least AD 850.
  • The island has had many names including Vaitu and Maurua.
  • Maupiti created the stone called “penu” a utensil used to mash food.

Maupiti’s lagoon is well-known for being one of the most beautiful! The different shades of blue will astonish you.  The coral reefs and sandbanks really bring out the shallow crystal-clear water in some places.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.