Monthly Archives: June 2020

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies on Taravai

You would think we were smarter than the average bear, but sometimes, no.  After 5-days of constant rain we decided we needed to stretch our legs.  There was a hike to the top of the ridge of Taravai that had several ascending peaks.  We decided to shoot for the first peak and if we were feeling “jiggy” after that we might go to the next one.  Ha, that is funny because we did not account for the swamps which quickly turned us into the mud buddies!

It was Leela (Graham and Janicki), Pitufa (Birgit and Christian), and Matt and I.  We all met on shore at Edouard’s house.  He is one of the 7 inhabitants of this island.  He and his wife are the only people who live on the southwest side of the island and they have a huge property.  It is amazing to see the ingenious things they have done.  Edouard and Denise have the only home in the Gambiers that has a natural water fed source.  They have a pipe leading from a waterfall pool, down the hillside, direct to their home.  They also have a large solar panel system that provides all the electricity, and a strong breakwater wall to protect their home.

Edouard's House off Taravai

Edouard’s House off Taravai

Garden of Eden

Edourd and Denise sustain themselves with their bountiful garden.  They have a large green house that is currently being replanted, where they grow tomatoes and cucumbers. In addition, they grow sweet potatoes, lettuce, and mint.  They also have an abundance of fruit trees (pomplemouse, avocados, bananas, papaya, mangoes, lemons).  We each received bags of fruit for 1000xpf ($10 USD) which included a small stock of plantains, stock of bananas, avocados, lemons, and pomplemouse – a huge score for us!

Mud Buddies

Our friends on Pitufa knew of a trail that went around the Taravai ridge.  Thank goodness Christian led the group with a machete in hand.  The start of the trail was not actually a trail, but a break in the bushes.  We tromped through the knee-high grass and fallen trees right into a giant muddy swamp.  For the most part we could walk across the fallen trees to avoid the majority of the mud, but a few weren’t so lucky.  Janicky and Birgit became our first mud buddies.

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies

Spirits high, we forged ahead.  Under giant tree limbs, over rocks, through the bushes, as we continue to look for the “trail.”  It was a slow hike up because of the mud and slippery hillside.  In addition, whoever was in the lead had to whack the bushes to make a space for passage. Poor Matt became the lead whacker.

Mud Buddy Trail

Mud Buddy Trail

The other fun thing we had to contend with were the wasps.  They build their nests in the tall grass and bushes.  They were fine until we came through with the machete and our feet.  Several of us got stung which was certainly unpleasant.  We had planned ahead and brought several lemons with us as that takes the “bite” out of the sting (sort of).

There were several beautiful views along the way.  One was of the boats (the left photo is Sugar Shack and Yelo – both Catanas).  The top right is a view of the Taravai village and the bottom right is a photo of another island.

We finally made it to the “flat” ridge point, albeit wet and muddy.  The mud buddies made it!

Top of Trail at Taravai

Top of Trail at Taravai

We decided it was too wet to continue on and frankly we were too tired.  It was not terribly far or high, but for some reason we were all tired.  Total of 2.5 miles up 29 floors and 6,603 steps.    We tracked our trail on the way down, but the silly track is yellow on a yellow background.

Mud Buddy Track

Mud Buddy Track

We descended down the mountain with no issues but decided to take the beach route back to avoid the muddy swamp.  It was truly beautiful.

Paradise After Mud

Beautiful Beach Bath

Mud Buddy Track

We made it back to Edouard’s house where we collected our fruit.  He is a super nice, albeit shy man.  He only speaks French so our friends had to translate for us.  We were super grateful for the fresh produce and his hospitality.

Edouard and his girls

Edouard and his girls

Some pretty shots

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Moonrise

Moonrise

Matt just hanging out

Ile Agakauitai Ridge Walk

We hid from a storm between Taravai and Ile Agakauitai with a few of our friends on Leela (Graham and Janicki) and Pitufa (Birgit and Christian).  It was 5 days of constant rain and high winds.  Strange considering it is their summer, but from what we have heard, this has been their wettest summer in 5 decades.  It’s what keeps the mountains so lush and green!  Below is a photo after the rain and during the rain – the entire Mt. Duff disappears.

Now you see Mt Duff...Now You Don't

Now you see Mt Duff…Now You Don’t

A Walk on the Wild Side

At the first clearing, we decided to go for a walk along the ridge of Ile Agakauitai that starts at the bay and wraps around to the lagoon.  Sweetie (our dinghy) has a long shaft outboard so we decided to take Leela’s dinghy with a much shallower draft. This would allow us to cross over the reef to get to the ridge.   Matt and Graham tied the dinghy to a tree and then pushed her away from the rocks.  Didn’t do much good as the tide brought her right back to the rocks, but what can you do?  We started off walking along a fairly flat area with protected pools of water. 

Ridge Walking

Ridge Walking

We came across these little inlets that I later learned from my European friends were called “tickles.”

Tickles

Tickles

There was this beautiful lava or rock table that had such great texture that it looked man-made.  But, no, it was embedded into the rock below.  Mother nature is an artist.

Awesome Lava Formations

Cool Lava Table Structures

Cool Lava Table Structures

As we turned left, around the corner leaving the bay, we started seeing a lot more pools of water.  These would range from 1’-6’ in depth.  It was really interesting to see the different growth in each pool – based on the amount of water coming in each one.

Pools of Water on the Ridge

Pools of Water on the Ridge

As we continued on our way along the ridge of Ile Agakauitai, we crossed over several lava formations.  We were told that lava would come up through a crack or fisher and create these formations that looked like roads to me.

Lava Road

Lava Road

The water in some of the pools was crystal clear.  In some of the photos (top two) you cannot even tell I am shooting through water.  The top right is a large crab saying “hello Christine” the middle is a landslide with a fallen tree and lots of rocks.

Beautiful Scenery on our Walk

Beautiful Scenery on our Walk

Yep, I win for best photo sequence

We found one fairly large pool that Matt decided to take a dip in.  I took this hysterical sequence of photos as he jumped in – I cannot believe I captured some of these! Matt starting out checking the depth, then assuming the position.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

Things start to fall apart as he loses his form and tries to break dance on the surface of the water.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

And he gets a 10 for style points, but a 2 for splash factor.

Dare Devil Matt

Dare Devil Matt

Unfortunately, there were lots of goat heads on Ile Agakauitai.  Not sure where the rest of the body ends up…

New Hat Attire?

New Hat Attire?

Snorkeling

We were hiding from a strong easterly wind for several days.  On the first day, we went for a snorkel with a few friends from Leela (Graham and Janicki) and Yello (Daniela).  It was our first snorkel near Ile Agakauitai and it was really interesting  with shallow reefs and a good variety of fish. 

We anchored the dinghy in a little sandy patch and jumped in.  We swam over the large reef in about a ½ meter of water.  It was really cool to see the little fish, crabs, and sea creatures in the nooks and crannies of the reef.

Reef

Reef

I found this purple lipped clam that was sewn into a two-layer coral shelf with half of its body on the upper shelf and the half on the lower shelf.

INSERT PURPLE CLAM

As you continue to swim along the reef, you come across these large pockets or areas that dive 10-15 meters deep.  Here you will find the large napoleons, angels, and groupers.  There were several that were well over a meter in length.

Beautiful Purple Lipstick

Beautiful Purple Lipstick

Some large fish exploring us exploring them

Some large fish exploring us exploring them

Lots of large coral tables or shelves, not sure what they are called, but it looks like you could sit down to tea.  And they come in all sorts of colors. 

Beautiful Coral Tables

Beautiful Coral Tables

I tracked several fun looking fish.  I found these four dual colored fish.  Half their bodies were one color and the other half another.  Maybe juveniles?   And of course, a little puffer fish.

Underwater friends in Agakauitai

Underwater friends in Agakauitai

Mt Duff from the trail

Wet and Wild Hike

Matt and I decided we needed to get up and move.  We had not been hiking since the Marquesas (several weeks) and needed to re-engage our legs.  The only drawback is that we have had lots and lots of rain since we arrived.  So, we knew it would be a wet and wild hike.

We started out on the main road heading over the ridge.  Along the way we passed by the local school.  This is the only school in the Gambiers and it was in need of some lovin the last time we were here.  It was great to see that they were building new classrooms for the young people.

School Expansion

School Expansion

Tombeau de Roi

Further down the road we came across the “King’s Tomb” which is called Tombeau de Roi.  We couldn’t read the head stones, but I imagine that it will be grave sites of the past chiefs and rulers of the Gambiers.

Tombeau de Roi

Tombeau de Roi

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Just past the Tombeau de Roi is the weather station called Meteo France Station de Rikitea.  We explored the facility but missed the opportunity to see them launch the weather balloon.  Evidently, they launch the weather balloon on weekdays at 1400 which would have been fun to see.

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Couvent de Rouru

After the road turned into a dirt road and about 1 mile down, we stumbled across an old convent.  The name is Couvent de Rouru.  As you walk up the green grassy path you walk along an old stone wall.  There were two stone buildings still standing on property.  The first is still proudly standing, albeit in ruins.  Plants, trees, and vines are trying their best to take over (upper right corner photo).  Inside there is one carved cross still visible.

Couvent de Rouru

Couvent de Rouru

Further inside is another stone ruin plopped in the middle of the grassy field.  Behind the convent was a gorgeous arch that leads to a grassy path below the trees.

Couvent de Rouru

Couvent de Rouru

Baptismal Pond

We stumbled across the baptismal pond which needed some serious lovin as it was not something you wanted to be baptized in.  Hidden in the floral bushes was a mound marked by a sign that read “Baignoire de J.A. Princesse.”  Climbing up the mound is the pond overlooking the bay.

INSERT 3 COLLAGE (dated 24 May)

Chemin des 12 Apotres

We finally get to the start of the trail, Chemin des 12 Apotres (12 Apostles) which had a nice little sign, some old ruins, and a carved stone at the entrance.

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Within the first ½ mile we came across more ruins hidden in the trees waiting for someone to explore them.

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Chemin des 12 Apotres

The path was incredibly muddy, slippery, and wet.  Just a small part of the wet and wild hike.  But the good news is we came across several waterfalls that were flowing nicely with the recent rainfalls.

Two small waterfalls

Two small waterfalls

A huge squall hit us about 2 hours into our hike.  We hid under a giant rock to avoid being drenched.  It only lasted for about 15-20 minutes.

Hidden from the storm

Hidden from the storm

We had our Garmin GPS and maps.me to prevent us from getting lost.  But, you know how that goes.  The trail we were on was not on either instrument.  But what we could tell was that the road which ran above us had ended.  Yikes.  We decided to try to find a path up to the road to head back.  We were about 3.5 miles into our hike at this time.

Forging Our Own Path

There were no trails, not even goat trails.  We started up the hill and realized our path was covered in raspberry bushes.  Which sounds pleasant at first considering we did not bring lunch and we were starving.  But then reality sinks in as these bushes are covered in lovely little prickles that stick hard and deep into everything!  And to top it off, the raspberries were not ready for pickin!  So, we decided to go up the little river/waterfall to limit the amount of whacking we had to do to clear a path.

Matt led the way with a giant tree stump and whacked the path for both of us (so sweet).  Up we climb the waterfall, across stumps, boulders and debris.  Super slippery, wet, and challenging.

Forging our own path

Forging our own path

After about 1.5 hours of climbing we finally came across a dirt road, thank God!  We were both so tired and sore from being stuck by bushes.  I wanted to show you how high we had to whack our way to the top, but the bottom photo does do it justice.

Long walk home

Long walk home

When it was all said and done, our wet and wild hike was 5 hours, 6.4 miles, 15,520 steps and 33 floors.