Monthly Archives: December 2019

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

The Tuamotu Archipelago

The Tuamotus archipelago is the widest of the five French Polynesia archipelagos.  Makatea and the 4 Gambier islands are the only high islands.  However, the remaining 83 motus or atolls are not actually islands.  Only 6% (roughly 19,000) of the Tahitian population live in this region, which is surprising considering it has the most islands and covers the widest area.

Tuamotus (Image from Google Images)

Tuamotus (Image from Google Images)

This region is famous for its colorful and perfect pearls (Gambiers).  However, its first quality is the purity and wealth of the underwater world.

The Tuamotus were named “the dangerous archipelago” because of their hazardous passes and abundant coral heads “bombies.”  The first European settlers aptly named the region because of the immense risks it presented to the ships during that era.  Alternatively, today, many vessels visit the area thanx to navigational charts and Google Earth.

Google Earth will give you high level images of the archipelago. As well as many other images (as you know).

Google Earth Image of Tuamotus

Google Earth Image of Tuamotus

In addition, you can zoom in to see a particular region.

Google Earth Islands

Google Earth Islands

Alternatively, you can zoom in to see a specific motu.  You can even zoom in enough to see the coral heads.

Google Earth image of Tikehau

Google Earth image of Tikehau

The archipelago is divided into the Western and Eastern islands.  The western islands were discovered long before the Society Islands.  The Spanish navigators discovered them in 1605 and then the Dutch in 1616.  However, despite these discoveries, it took an additional 230 years for the world to learn about this archipelago.  The whaling captains plowed through these seas refusing to talk about them.  Probably trying to protect their fishing zones. Because discovering an island was not a priority.

Easter Tuamotus

Explorers left the Eastern Tuamotus mostly undiscovered.  That is until the The French Government decided to put the Centre d’essai du Pacific Experimentation Center (CEP) in these atolls in 1960.  Which is just a fancy name for nuclear testing facility.  These tests continued for 33 years before it was shut down in 1996.

By way of example, a typical Tuamotu island will look like the photo below.  In particular, with a reef surrounding the motus and a lagoon in the center.

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

Typical atoll in the Tuamotus

Islands we have already visited in the Tuamotus (as of 22 Sept. 2019)

  • Hao
  • Makatea
  • Tikehau
  • Rangiroa
  • Hao

Islands we hope to visit in the Tuamotus:

  • Apataki
  • Kauehi
  • Fakarava
  • Tahanea
  • Makemo
  • Ahe
  • Amanu
  • Manehi

Considering the above list, if we were to hit all of those islands, we would have visited all of the passable atolls in the Tuamotus.  The fact that it is the largest archipelago, that is a huge feat.

Tikehau Beach

Tikehau Full of Sea Treasures

Tikehau Adventures.  Our friends on Alrisha gave us the low down on the motu.  It did not take long as it is a super small village.  There are only two streets that run parallel to each other where everything can be located.  We left the boat the next morning to go exploring.

Not many decisions to make when it comes to directions.  We left Sweetie at the little marina, walked out to the first street and decided to go to the 2nd street.  Right on the corner is the bakery.  You can order your bread in the morning and pick it up at 1600h.  They also sell propane and fuel because why not get those while you are picking up your croissants and baguettes?  To the left of the bakery and about 100 meters down is the one and only magasin (market).  We walked in, picked up some coldish beverages and continued on.

Nothing left in that direction on the 2nd road so we turned around and walked the opposite direction.  At the first opportunity, we turned left onto a dirt road hoping to come to the end of the island.  Even their dirt roads are pretty.

Dirt road on Tikehau

Dirt road on Tikehau

We walked all the way around the island along the shore of some very pretty beaches.

Tikehau Beaches

Tikehau Beaches

The black tip sharks like to swim up to shore to check you out.  We saw a half dozen just hanging out and watching us.

Sharks in 6" of water

Sharks in 6″ of water

Sea Treasures

As we walked along shore, we collected lots of sea treasures.  The beach was full of shells and bits of corals and sea urchins.  I am hoping I can figure out how to make some jewelry out of the purple urchin shells.

Sea Treasures

Sea Treasures

We stopped and at a snack shack for lunch.  Matt had a fish burger and I had chicken.  We enjoyed the cover as a squall rolled in while we ate.

Snack shack on the wharf at Tikehau

Snack shack on the wharf at Tikehau

On the way back we went back to the beach to finish our circumference of the island.  Got this great shot of Sugar Shack at anchor.

Tikehau Beach

Tikehau Beach

Another pretty beach

Tikehau beach

Tikehau beach

Anchorage

Sugar Shack was anchored off of Tuherahera motu where the main village is located.  Originally, we had wanted to visit Ilse de Eden where the Garden of Eden is located, bird island, and a few other motus.

However, we were here for several days, but did not have much of an opportunity to explore the other motus due to bad weather.  During a maramu, we hunkered down and then decided to leave at a weather window.

We did motor over to Motu Mauu which is a known manta ray cleaning station.  A quick dip in the water allowed us to admire the fish.  However, we never came across any manta rays.  Maybe next time.

Motu Mauu Manta Ray Cleaning Station

Motu Mauu Manta Ray Cleaning Station

Tikehau History

Tikehau is part of the Tuamotu Archipelago.  The lagoon is rather large and spams 17 nmm.  There is only one passe that can be used by boats and it has to be used during slack tide to avoid damage.  This motu has an almost continuous barrier reef with numerous islets covered in vegetation and coconut trees.  One the south-west part, between the village (airport) and the pass, has a reef awash with no islets.

Tikehau map

Tikehau map

Jaques Coustea made a study on Tikehau’s lagoon during a visit in 1987.  He discovered that it contains a greater variety of fish species than any other place in French Polynesia.

Today, Tikehau is a tourist destination, popular for its pink sand beaches and its exceptional underwater fauna.

Only 500 Tahitians call this motu home where they mostly live on copra, fishing, tourism and a little pearl farming.  In 2001, Tikehau opened its first resort called Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort.

Blue Fin Tuna - 25-30lbs

Midnight Runner

After our all-day tour, we dropped off Yves and Martha back on Break Away and swung by a new boat that arrived earlier in the day.  They were on the center mooring which had a chafed line.  They wanted our mooring, but we could not tell how they wanted to get it while we were still on it (language barrier).  We planned on a midnight runner and agreed to call them on the radio when we left, but they never answered.

We had to time our arrival into Tikehau’s pass during slack tide which was at 0900.  With current sea conditions, the passage was estimated to be an 8-hour passage.   Matt hoisted the main and the jib and we were off at 6kts heading toward our destination.  I was not feeling well with my sprained ankle and bruised knee so I went back to bed once the sails were set.  Matt spent the night avoiding squalls and trying to hold course.  At one point he was 30 degrees off course but it kept the boat from banging against the waves.  Leaving at midnight would allow us to arrive around 0800 which was a little before the “slack tide.”  We had a full moon that lit our path and made it a beautiful midnight sail.

Blue Fin Tuna

After our midnight runner and about 45 minutes from the pass entrance, we spotted a lot of birds circling the waters.  We headed in that direction and ZING a line went spooling out!  We fell off course and brought in the jib to slow the boat down.  It took Matt awhile to bring this guy in, but he was worth it.

Blue Fin Tuna - 25-30lbs

Blue Fin Tuna – 25-30lbs

We arrived to the pass entrance at 0815 and it looked like the waves were pushing a strong current out.  We were already nose into the wind and with a strong current out it would make it challenging to enter.  So, we circled around for a half hour before putting the engines at 2000 RPM and heading in.  We made a whopping 3 kts entering the pass with the current and wind against us.  It took us an hour to get to the anchorage once we made it safely through the pass. 

Midnight Runner Passage Details:

Miles Traveled: 60.6 nm

Duration: 11 hrs (including waiting at pass & 1 hour across lagoon)

Avg. Speed:  6.1 kt

Max Speed:  10.7 kt

Wind Speed:  10-12 kt SE

Swell:  1-1.5 SE

We dropped the hook next to two other catamarans just off the long stretch of white, sandy beach.  Within 20 minutes, the 50’ Catana owners of “Oxygen” came over to say “hello.”  We invited Guy and Isobelle up to look around.  While they were still on the boat another dinghy came by from the catamaran closer to us.  It was a charter boat that had guests from Austin, TX!  Small freakin world.  A few hours later a small boat was entering the anchorage.  Matt was quirking his head and had a strange look on his face.  He grabbed the binoculars and shouted, “No way, that’s Alrisha!”  We met them in Panama and had seen them in passing in the Galapagos and Gambiers.

We invited Ferry and Bridgette (Alrisha) and our new friends Guy and Isobell on board for sundowners.  Our friends on “Alrisha” are German and “Oxygen” is French.  Somehow with our broken English we were able to tell great stories.