Monthly Archives: December 2019

Nirvana on Rangiroa

Nirvana on Rangiroa: Motu Faama & Blue Lagoon

After a fabulous time celebrating the festival near the Tiputa village, we decided we needed some alone time.  Our new destination is a motu called Faama which is on the southern side of the Rangiroa atoll.  It would be a short 14 nm sail if the winds cooperated.  We hoisted up the sails, set our course and to our great joy it was a perfect run.  With full sails we averaged 6 kts in 10-12kts of wind.  Not uber fast, but extremely pleasant.  We arrived at the western end of the motu, dropped the hook in 9 meters of sandy water.  Immediately you could tell that Motu Faama was nirvana.  You might recall that the Rangiroa atoll has over 415 motus (islets or little islands) within its lagoons.  How did we know to come here?  Our good friends on Halcyon mentioned this little slice of heaven.

Motu Faama Google Earth view

Motu Faama Google Earth view

The view took our breath away.  We anchored sort of near a very small pass between Motu Faama and another small motu.  You can see another motu in the background (just over the reef).

Motu Faama a little nirvana

Motu Faama a little nirvana

Just a stunning piece of heaven on earth.

Motu Faama waters

Motu Faama waters

Exploring inside the motus:

It did not take us long to blow up the paddle boards and jump right in.  We could clearly see a reef between us and the motu which made navigating by dinghy impossible.  It is a little maze around all the motus with little passes and lots of shallow spots.  We had to carry the SUPs several times over the reefs.  The terrain was diverse and remarkable!  From pink sandy beaches, to coral, volcanic rock, reef and vegetation.

Terrain on the motus in Rangiroa

Terrain on the motus in Rangiroa

The water would fluctuate from turquoise to a brilliant blue between the motus and up the passes.

Every shade of blue represented in these waters

Every shade of blue represented in these waters

We found several cool spots to hang out including this little gorge on the coral.  No coral was damaged during our visit.

All sorts of fun found

All sorts of fun found

The coral was a brilliant display of color under the sea.  We fund many fields of branching corals (elkhorn?)  Some of the corals were so vibrant they melted my heart  Such beauty in the different hues of purple, blue and green.

Corals around Motu Faama

Corals around Motu Faama

This little fish (top photo) was protecting the large purple lipped clam.  A little tilapia was hiding from me (bottom photo).

Corals around Motu Faama

Fish around Motu Faama

We loved this anchorage and the waters as it was truly nirvana. However, one of the locals was burning copra (coconuts) and we had been living in smoke for many days.  The boat was covered in ash and our throats were hurting so we decided to move to Lagon Bleu (or Blue Lagoon).

Blue Lagoon – western side of Rangiroa Lagoon

We got an early start to Lagon Bleu which is located on the western side of the atoll.  Based on the weather, we could sail there, but would have to motor back (into the wind and waves).  It was “almost” a downwind sail, so we set up to fly Big Bertha, our large spinnaker.  It would be a stretch to fly her as it was not really a downwind sail.  To our great surprise, we were able to fly her with 8-9 kts of wind coming on the beam!  We had no waves or swell so she managed just fine.  This is not typical at all. It was crazy good fortune to be able to fly the spinnaker in these wind conditions.

Sailing inside Rangiroa lagoon

Sailing inside Rangiroa lagoon

As we were making 8 kts of boat speed, we saw a small blip in the distance.  Nothing was on our charts (we were running 4 of them).  As we approached and zoomed in really close, we found this tiny island, smack in the middle of the lagoon!  Good thing we were not traveling at night. 

Small island Tariari

Small island Tiaari

Lagon Bleu

We slowly approached the Lagon Bleu area as we had heard there were lots of bombies (coral heads).  A string of motus and coral reefs formed a natural pool on the edge of the main reef, a lagoon within a lagoon. Another nirvana gem inside the Rangiroa atoll.

Lagon Bleu Google Earth Shot

Lagon Bleu Google Earth Shot

We decided this was a “lunch” stop as the weather conditions were such that it would make for an uncomfortable evening.  We hopped in the dinghy and made our way to the small reef opening. 

Waters of Blue Lagoon

Waters of Blue Lagoon

We had an amazing shot of Sugar Shack just beyond the reef.

Sugar Shack off the reef at Blue Lagoon

Sugar Shack off the reef at Blue Lagoon

After a short walk around the motu we found a nice shallow place populated with dozens of black tip sharks.

Checking out the black tip sharks

Checking out the black tip sharks

We sat in 1’ of water and just admired the graceful beasts.  They ranged from babies to about 3.5’ long.  I mean really, we were sitting in 12” of water with over 20 black tip sharks around us!

Life is good when you find a hidden nirvana.

Cool links on Blue Lagoon and photos.

A Project and a Laugh:

I did manage to complete one project.  Our life line gate pulleys were falling apart.  I had made them about 3 years ago out of para-cord.  It was time to replace them with new knots and this time I went with a diamond knot.

Gate pulley project

Gate pulley project

A friend sent me a photo of another Sugar Shack in Seattle.  This is funny.

Seattle Sugar Shack

Seattle Sugar Shack

A nirvana it is not, but still fun!

Farerei Haga_Team Tiki Tiki

Rangiroa Festival: Farerei Haga

Le Maire, Julien Mai of Makatea told us about the Rangiroa festival called Farerei Haga.  The festival was scheduled to start in mid-September.  We had missed the majority of the Heiva festival in July.  So, I really wanted to attend part of this festival, even though it would be much smaller.

Fishing Competition

Sugar Shack was anchored right outside the commune area where the majority of the events were being held.  We went ashore and were able to see a lot of events.  The first event we watched was the spear fishing while free diving results.  Each competitor brought their catch to shore.  The fish were categorized, weighed and strung together.  Winners were based on quantity, weight, and we think difficulty to shoot.

Fish caught by spear fisherman

Fish caught by spear fisherman

We also watched the sport fisherman bring in their catch:

Sport fisherman catch

Sport fisherman catch

All the fish from both events were sold to benefit the games.

Outrigger Races

While on board Sugar Shack we watched the two different outrigger races.  First were the solo outriggers.  They were so extremely fast right out the gate. The competitors went right in front of Sugar Shack, around an orange marker and back to the docks.

The next race was the 6-man team outriggers.  The winner paddled for an hour traveling across the shore, out a few miles, back to Avatoru and back to the dock. The teams were closely followed by spectator boats making it hard to see the outriggers.  They are between the shore and the fishing boats.

Solo Outrigger Event

Solo Outrigger Event

The outriggers are crudely made, but somehow withstand the power of 6 Tahitians catapulting them through the waters.

6-Man Outrigger Canoes

6-Man Outrigger Canoes

The competitors for Farerei Haga are all locals living in Rangiroa.  We are thinking they do this competition to determine who will represent them at the larger inter island festivals.

Coconut Javelin Toss

Matt had really wanted to watch the coconut javelin toss.  We heard about this sport while we were in the Gambiers, but had never watched it.  Each competitor builds their own javelins (between 12-15) that are clearly marked.

Javelins for coconut toss

Javelins for coconut toss

The competitors make their poles out of a light wood with spears on the end (made of rebar).  Colorful tape holds the spears onto the pole.  They are aiming for a coconut that has been wedged on a metal pole 15 meters up in the sky.  The officials mark the coconut into 4 sections.  The top section is worth 10 points, the next section is worth 8, the next is worth 6 and the bottom is worth 4.  The goal is not only to hit the coconut but to hit it near the top for the most points.

Women’s Competition Javelin Toss

We watched the women first.  They take one of their very light and wobbly poles and get into position.  I befriended the woman in black only to realize she is the reining champion.  And boy did she prove it today!  I tried to capture her incredible toss below.

In position, then balance on pointer finger, then pull back for a throw, and then full release.

Women's Javelin Contest

Women’s Javelin Contest

She was the only one that hit the coconut in almost every round.  The officials pulled the pole down to determine where the coconut was hit after each 5 minute round.

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Check out the photo below as it shows just how difficult it is to excel in this sport.  The top photo shows a javelin just above another stuck one and barely missing the coconut.

Near misses

Near misses

We did not stay to watch the men as the women’s event took forever.  But we did go back to look at the coconuts.  We found this one that had been 8 times!  Can you see the holes?

Coconut hit 8 times

Coconut hit 8 times

Dancing and Drums: Highlight of Farerei Haga 

A successful Farerei Haga festival would not be complete without dancing and drums. We witnessed two nights of competition and it was spectacular.

Team Tiki Tike Dancing

Team Tiki Tike Dancing

As the women shacked their hips, the men squatted and did a in/out movement with their legs.  The dancers thighs had to be killing them.

Team Tiki Tiki

Team Tiki Tiki

The final night was for the soloist to shine.  Each team had their own drum line and one male and one female dancer performed.

Solos from the dance competition

Solos from the dance competition

Team Tiki Tiki won the dance competition along with their drum line and the female soloist.  I can’t wait to learn how to move like them!

Sporting Events for Farerei Haga:

  • Soccer
  • Outrigger races (solo and 6-man teams)
  • Spear Fishing while free fiving
  • Sport Fishing
  • Bacchi Ball
  • Soccer
  • Coconut Javelin throwing
  • Coconut races (carrying pole with many coconuts on your shoulder)
  • Triathlon
  • Dancing
  • Drumming
  • Ukulele
  • Basket Weaving
  • Heavy Lifting of boulders

Unexpected Help

One time we went ashore and received help from a very sweet young man.  As we pulled up to the concrete dock, a little boy around 3-3.5 years old came up and reached for our painter (the line we tie up to docks).  I looked at him curiously, unable to speak French.  Matt said hand him the line, so I did.  He was so darn cute, he took the bitter end and wrapped it a BUNCH around a cleat.  We usually don’t use the bitter end as the painter is really long.  So, Matt took the center part of the line and tied a bowline leaving his knots as is.  

Little dock helper

Little dock helper

Sugar Shack at Tiputa Anchorage

Rangiroa, the 2nd Largest Atoll in the World

The weather gave us a nice window to get from Tikehau to Rangiroa.  It was a bit of a challenge to schedule our exit out of the Tikehau pass to the entrance of the Rangiroa pass during slack tide.  On top of that we had to calculate the approximate sailing time to get from one atoll to the other.  Not hard, just challenging.  The best time to leave and enter any pass is during slack tide.  Tikehau’s slack tide was at 1700 and Rangiroa’s was at 0800.  Which left us 15 hours to make 50 nm.  Typically, we could have made this passage during the day in about 9 hours.  However, the slack tides forced us to make the passage at night.

We had very little wind so we decided to just go with the flow.  This is a very typical sailor thing to do.  However, this is not typical for Matt and I.  Usually, we turn the engines on if we are going less than 3-4 kts.  But, since we were in no hurry we ran the jib and one engine at 1200 rpm.  

We managed to arrive in front of the pass at 0730 and decided to hang out for 30 minutes.  It was the first time we had timed the pass accurately.  It went smoothly and we dropped the hook near the Tiputa village.

Passage Details

Miles Traveled: 50.1 nm

Duration: 14.5 hrs 

Avg. Speed:  3.5 kt

Max Speed:  5 kt

Wind Speed:  3-8 kt SE

Sugar Shack at the Tiputa anchorage in front of the Kia Oro Resort.  They so graciously (unbeknownst to them) gave us their internet during our stay 🙂

Anchorage at Tiputa Village, Rangiroa

Anchorage at Tiputa Village, Rangiroa

Little Bit About Rangiroa

Rangiroa is the largest and the most populous atoll in the Tuamotus.  In addition it is considered the 2nd largest atoll in the world.  It has two villages, Avatoru and Tiputa that are located on separate, but connected motus. 

Rangiroa was discovered in 1616 by the Dutch, which is approximately 150 years before Tahiti.  It has a rather large lagoon at 45 nm long by 18 nm wide.    The atoll consists of about 415 motus, islets and sandbars.  Strung together in the ocean for more than 110 miles, completely encircling a deep lagoon

There are close to 2,600 Tahitians that live on this motu.  Which makes it the greatest population in this remote region.  There are only two passes that grant access to the interior lagoon.  Each town is located near a pass and the airport is located in between.

Rangiroa is quite possibly the world’s most immense natural aquarium. Blessed with an accessible yet secluded appeal and a large abundant lagoon, this is a renowned destination for diving.

12-Mile Bike Ride Around the Island

We rented bikes and cruised around, across 3 motus and over 8 bridges. It is a 5-mile route from Tiputa to Avatoru if you follow the main road.  Of course Matt and I went off roading a lot, stopping at many beaches and several magasins for cold beverages.

Exploring Rangiroa

Exploring Rangiroa

We found many gorgeous spots along the way.

Picturesque Spot

Picturesque Spot

A beautiful church made of coral and monument made of pearl shells.

Church on Rangiroa

Church on Rangiroa

Stop at a local pension (hotel)

Kia Ora Resort

Kia Ora Resort

Snorkeling the Aquarium

Just inside the Tiputa pass is a protected coral garden called the aquarium.  The local government has added wonderful informational signs underwater. It is a popular tourist destination, so we planned our stop around the down times.

Station 1 explains about the reef formations:

Station 1 Underwater Garden

Skyline Trilogy

The 2nd Station talks about the sea life

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On Station 3 it shares the relationship between the fish and coral

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Station 4 explains the fragility of the coral

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With Station 5 it explains how corals grow

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Station 6 talks about the communications between small fish and large fish

Station 6 Underwater Garden

Station 6 Underwater Gardengarden

More Things to See in Rangiroa:

  • Blue Lagoon
  • Dolphin Dancing Show
  • Pink sand beaches
  • Reef Island

We named this boat the mullet (business in the front and party in the back)

The Mullet

The Mullet

We had lots of little squalls come through, but we were often rewarded with a rainbow.

Rainbow in Rangiroa

Rainbow in Rangiroa