Monthly Archives: October 2019

Piazza's Pizzazz Up Sugar Shack

Piazza’s Pizzazz Up Sugar Shack

Our friends Rocco and Linda Piazza came for a short visit.  Rocco and his mom, Linda stayed at Hotel Conrad for a few days before we picked them up.  It was door to door service, we brought Sugar Shack to motu Toopuia where the hotel is located and picked them up in Sweetie.  Matt flew our giant Texas flag just in case the Piazza’s were uncertain as to which sailboat was Sugar Shack.

Pick up the Piazza's at Hotel Conrad

Pick up the Piazza’s at Hotel Conrad

A trip to Bora Bora would not be complete without dinner at Bloody Mary’s.  Lucky for us it was happy hour night as well (happy hour is Monday, Wednesday, and Friday).  When you are ready to eat, they take you to their “menu table” where the fresh selection is laid out for you.  The host walks you through each selection of fresh meats and fish, how it is prepared and the cost.  You place your order and are seated on beautiful, varnished tree stumps in a Robinson Crusoe style dining room.

Dinner at Bloody Mary's

Dinner at Bloody Mary’s

BORA BORA TO TAHA’A

We left the next morning for Taha’a.  It was a beat into the wind and the waves making for an unpleasant first experience for our guests.  But the Piazza’s were troopers and kept smiles on their faces.  We raised the jib once we entered the lagoon for the short 2-mile jaunt to the Tautau motu and the coral gardens.  It was really busy in front of the gardens, so we decided to anchor in front of the Taha’a Pearl Resort.

Rocco jumped in the gorgeous water immediately!  It was time to wow them with the beauty of the coral gardens.  We did a little walk about on the resort’s property which had a lovely little beach.

Taha'a Anchorage

Taha’a Anchorage

We jumped in at the mooring entrance after securing Sweetie.  There was no current which made our leisurely snorkel even more enjoyable.  I am still working on the underwater camera settings and filters, so forgive the funky colors of the fish.  Hopefully you still get a feeling for their true beauty and curious nature.  The top photo was meant to be a stellar photo of Rocco, but a butterfly fish had different plans.

Coral Garden's underwater photos

Coral Garden’s underwater photos

We found an area that was teaming with a wide variety of fish.  They were incredibly friendly and inquisitive!  My favorite is still “Nemo” playing with the sea anemone.

Coral Garden's Underwater Photos

Coral Garden’s Underwater Photos

Little Shopping

The next day we made the short journey to Uturoa, the main village of Raiatea.  We picked up a mooring from Dream Yacht Charter and headed into town.  It was fun exploring a new island and markets with the Piazza’s.  We did some provisioning and found some cool new plates for the boat!

New plates for Sugar Shack

New plates for Sugar Shack

Coming Up Next

Be sure to read our next blog where we hike to the top of Tapioi, hunt crabs, snorkel and travel to other Society Islands with Rocco and Linda.

Bora Bora illuminated in the background

Bora Bora Insights

Bora Bora is one of the most famous islands in French Polynesia (next to Tahiti).  It is a small island covering 38 kilometers and has two towering mountains.  The tallest Mt Otemanu is 727 meters tall.  This island was formed 4 million years ago after many volcanic eruptions.  The eruptions continued over hundreds of thousands of years.  Since then, the island like all islands, in French Polynesia has been and continues to sink.  Its lagoon is encircled by a wide coral reef that encloses several big motus with white sandy beaches.

Bora Bora's lagoon and surrounding motu's

Lagoon and surrounding motu’s

The island’s initial name was “Pora” and then that changed to “Pora Pora” which means first born – the first island drawn out of the ocean after the creation of Havai’l (Raitea).

A little History about this island:

  • Originally called “Pora” then “Pora Pora” and finally “Bora Bora”
  • 1769 Captain Cook discovers the island
  • 1888 The island attaches itself to France
  • 1942 U.S builds large navy base and airport
  • 10,550 Inhabitants which entirely cater to tourism
  • 7 million years old and is considered nearly an “atoll”
  • 1946 Americans left the island

New “Rules” Impacting Cruisers

In May 2019, Bora decided to mandate that all visiting yachts must use moorings and be charged for the service.  Prior to May, yachts were able to anchor in approved anchor zones at no charge like all the other islands in French Polynesia.  This new “rule” has been wildly unpopular for a number of reasons.

  1. The main purpose of forcing cruisers to use these moorings was because the locals were not using lights at night and were running into anchored boats. Not sure how this is the fault of the visiting yachts….
  2. The fees are expensive.
  3. The boats are not insured should the mooring fail and no plan has been put into effect to check and maintain the moorings.
  4. Eleven boats have had moorings fail since this rule has been in place June 1, 2019.

We prefer to anchor because we know our ground tackle and we trust our skills and expertise in anchoring.  We also don’t have to rely on anyone or anything else to keep our boat, our home safe.

Cruisers are certain this is just another revenue generating tactic that will be implemented in other French Polynesian islands.  It will be interesting to see how this plays out in the upcoming months.

Bora Bora is known as “the pearl of French Polynesia” but to be honest, it is very touristy and crowded.  It is beautiful, has crystal clear turquoise waters, green mountains, and friendly locals.  But Raitea, Mo’orea, and Taha’a have the same things with far less tourists, free anchorages, and a more intimate feeling.

Bora Bora illuminated in the background

Bora Bora illuminated in the background

Because Bora Bora is so well known it can get crowded with tourist.  But knowing the hidden gems and out of the way activities makes this a magical place.

Marae greeting tourists to Bora Bora

Float time at Bora Bora

Wayne’s time with us was quickly coming to an end so we had to get him to Bora Bora.  The trip from Taha’a to Poofai Bay, Bora Bora is about 30nm.  It was a stunning day, blue skies, calm seas, pretty water, and no wind.   I mean literally we had no wind.  It was a 5-hour motor, but we got there, dropped the hook in an exquisite bay and jumped in the water for some float time.

New Bora Bora Anchoring Rules:

Francis, the local BBMS (Bora Bora Mooring Services) representative, approached us within 30 minutes of jumping in the water. He informed us that we were in a “day stop” and could not remain there overnight.  He then told us that we had to pick up a mooring ball and pay for each night.  If there were no moorings available at an anchorage we wanted to stay, then we could drop the hook.  But only if there were no available moorings.  Ugh.  $30 for 1 night, $50 for 3 nights $100 for the week.  We had heard of these new rules from other cruisers on our French Polynesia Cruisiers Facebook Group.

We paid Francis for a week and picked up the last available mooring in front of the famous Bloody Mary’s bar.  Well, when in Rome…go to Bloody Mary’s!  We hit happy hour and then closed the place down!  Don’t get the wrong idea, they closed at 2130.

Bloody Mary's Bar

Bloody Mary’s Bar

The boys slept in the next day (you can imagine why).  I was up early and got to watch an outrigger race which is part of their annual celebration called Heiva.  There had to be well over 100 outriggers paddling against the wind and current.  It was truly impressive. I cheered them on from the boat.

Outriggers racing in Heiva

Outriggers racing in Heiva

We flew up the Texas Flag – just because we can.

Sugar Shack flying the Texas Flag

Sugar Shack flying the Texas Flag

It was sad to send Wayne off.  The airport anchorage was about an hour motor.  We dropped the hook in 3 meters of water and had ourselves some more float time with Wayne.  Another fun shot of the three of us on the bow.

Wayne, Matt and I in Bora Bora

Wayne, Matt and I in Bora Bora

The airport had a beautiful statue on a little motu.  She faced the airport so you actually see here as you take the ferry to the mainland.

Marae greeting tourists to Bora Bora

Marae greeting tourists to Bora Bora

We had a great time hanging with Wayne and look forward to his return visit in December.