Monthly Archives: September 2019

Sea Anenome in Coral Gardens, Tautau

Tautau and the Coral Gardens

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The maramu finally started to dissipate so we took advantage of the break in wind and made the short 30nm sail from Huahine to Tahaa.  Raiatea and Tahaa are enclosed in the same reef which has 10 passes.  We entered through the Toahotu Pass on the eastern side, went between Raiatea and Tahaa and up the western side to a motu called Tautau.  Imagine our surprise when we realized we anchored in front of the “coral gardens” one of the best snorkeling spots in French Polynesia.  The photos below show the beautiful pass entrance complete with lush, green hillsides, remote islands, and beachfront property.

Pass Entrance Between Raiatea and Tahaa

Pass Entrance Between Raiatea and Tahaa

We anchored in 10 meters of turquoise, clear water.  However, we ended up sitting in 2 meters of water by the time we let out scope.  We enjoyed watching a family of sting rays glide by under the boat.

Matt jumping out of the water behind the boat

Matt jumping out of the water behind the boat

Ile Tautau is “technically” a private island with a small hotel called “Tahaa Pearl Resort” complete with many thatched huts hovering over the water.

Tahaa Hotel Complete with Thatched Huts Over the Water

Tahaa Hotel Complete with Thatched Huts Over the Water

CORAL GARDENS

By sheer luck, we anchored in front of “ coral gardens ” which lies between the two motus (sandy spits).  We had not heard about the coral garden and certainly did not know where it was located – so lucky us!

GoogleMap of Coral Gardens

GoogleMap of Coral Gardens – photo courtesy of “Snorkeling Report“

The coral garden is the most renowned snorkeling spot of Tahaa. This crystal clear water channel, which separates two motus, is located in an idyllic setting in the middle of one of the largest lagoons of Polynesia. While let yourself drift over colorful and preserved corals, you will observe alternately school of butterfly fish, lion fish, brightly colored wrasse, clown fish huddled in their anemones and great giant clams sunbathing right under the surface of the sea.

Tautau anchorage in front of Coral Gardens

Tautau anchorage in front of Coral Gardens

Coral Gardens is the name of the cut between the two motus.  We ended up walking “sweetie” as it got pretty shallow.

It was pretty surprising how shallow the gardens are.  We jumped in at about 2 meters and began our swim.  As we continued up the cut, the depth varied between 2 meters to 2″ just below our bellies.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

A healthy, red, soft sea anemone was busy cleaning several fish.  I watched the fish swim in and out of the sea anemone.  It was a beautiful dance together.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

The fish were particularly curios and friendly coming right up to my mask as I hovered over their underwater home.

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Coral Gardens Underwater Photos

Save Coral Gardens

This true to life aquarium was magnificent to swim in – what a blessed opportunity we had exploring this oasis.  Typically this is a drift snorkel where the current carries you through the corals and down the channel.  However, the weather was screwy with us due to remnants of the maramu and we had no current – which was fabulous.  We could swim up and back at our own pace with no current.

Imagine my horror as I researched the history to learn that the years and public have been  hard on the environment.  The devastation has been exponential which is just heart breaking.

The tour companies bring tourists in by foot and they trample on the coral and sea life.  Plus some areas are so shallow you rub or touch the coral as you swim overhead.  Not sure how to remedy this other than to shut down certain areas.

Blue Eyed Sacred Eels

Huahine: Sacred Eels and Distillery

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Is it wrong to visit a distillery after feeding sacred eels?  Hmmm…I guess its better than visiting the distillery first?  We continued our exploration of Huahine by car and stopped at “Anguilles Sacrees” which means “Sacred Eels.”

I am sure you are wondering who would deem eels sacred? Legend has it that a charming prince courted and wanted to marry the King’s daughter.  However, the Kind did not approve of the union and transformed the prince into an eel.  The locals don’t want to kill or eat the eels for fear of eating the prince.

They have beautiful shells, benches, and lovely gardens around the fresh water run off where the eels linger.

Sacred Eels Sanctuary

Sacred Eels Sanctuary

We planned ahead and brought sardines with us to feed and honor them.  I will admit that there were not the prettiest thing to gaze upon, but there was something fascinating about them.  They were huge and seemed to use their sense of smell more than their sense of sight.  Which is odd being that they have electric blue eyes.  Unfortunately, their eyes did not come through in the photo.

Sacred Eels of Huahine

Sacred Eels of Huahine

MARAMU LEAVES A TRACE

We drove all around Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti.  For the most part the road was in really good shape as it wound around the mountains and edged up to the water.  However, the maramu left its mark in several places making it challenging to forge ahead.  At one point we passed a dump truck clearing the road way.

Maramu leaves a trail of destruction

Maramu leaves a trail of destruction

ANINI

We came across another set of Marae along the water’s edge that formed an immense wall.

Anini Marae Stone Temples

Anini Marae Stone Temples

I am sure these would be gorgeous photos had it been a sunny day.

Vista Views on Huahine

Vista Views on Huahine

DISTILLERIE HUAHINE PASSION

The small island has a distillery.  They make dozens of flavored liquors and sell them to the tourists.  They don’t have an online business or export to any other island. All of their business is by word of mouth.  The Distillery was an impressive little operation and remained crowded the entire time we were there.  It was better than any happy hour we’ve been too – they were heavy handed on the pours and wanted us to try every flavor.  Not possible considering their “lite” stuff was 22 proof and their heavy stuff was 55 proof.  Some tasted like fire!  But, we walked away with a Huahine rum and a Dried Banana Liqueur (over ice or ice cream).

Distillery Huahine

Distillery Huahine

The photo collage below shows a giant stone welcoming visitor to Huahine.  Below it are stones from its neighboring islands.  The top right photo is the bay where Sugar Shack is anchored (she is the catamaran on the left) and the bottom is a sweet horse grazing on the shores of the bay where we anchored.

Fare Bay in Huahine where Sugar Shack is anchored

Fare Bay in Huahine where Sugar Shack is anchored

Marae Stone Temples in Maeve

Huahine: The Authentic Polynesian Island

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A deep crystal-clear lagoon surrounds the two islands that comprise Huahine.  On shore you will find lush forests, untamed landscape, and eight quaint villages.  Green vibrant mountains are met by white sandy beaches at each of the numerous bays.  The interior offers a variety of cultivated fields including watermelon, vanilla, bananas, and cucumbers.  Huahine offers the true authentic Polynesia experience. Huahine is pronounced “way-a-hee-knee.”

There are four villages or districts on the big island of Huahine Nui and four on the small island of Huahine Iti.  Most of the inhabitants live a rural life growing melons and seasonal fruits.  The first evidence of colonization appears to be 850 AD.  The original name of the island was “Matairea” or “Happy Wind” and nobody seems to know what the name was changed.  Huahine is translates to “Hua” means “sex” and “hine” means “woman” in Tahitian.  This island pays homage to women as one of the mountains looks like a pregnant woman laying on her side.

Formation of Huahine

Thee distinct volcanic eruptions formed Huahine.  However, there are two legends that dispute this finding. The first powerful legend asserts that the god Hiro cut the island in half with his canoe.  Whereas the second prevailing legend states that Mt. Moua Puta (on Mo’orea) was pierced by spears during a contest among gods.  The pieces of the mountain then sailed 100 miles where it split Huahine in two.

Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti

Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti

There is a certain aurora on the island that exudes mystery and intrigue.  It is exceptionally beautiful and green, even on a hazy, stormy day.  We hunkered down a lot because we are still immersed in the “maramu.”  However, we did rent a car to drive around the island.  We preferred to rent bikes or scooters but the weather was such that those modes of transport would be no fun.  Our first stop was the town of Maeva to see the archaeological ruins called “marae”.

Stone Temple Mecca

The famous archaeological sites near the village of Maeva include the largest concentration of pre-European marae (stone temples) in Polynesia.  There are more than 200 archeological stone structures that have survived for centuries.  They include marae of island chieftains, dwellings, horticultural developments, and religious and ceremonial monuments.

Fare Pote’e

In the center of the village is the “Fare Pote’e” which means “oval house”.  The chief lived here and held community meetings.  Fare Pote’e was originally built in the town of Fare.  But when the missionaries came they destroyed it.  The locals rebuilt it in the neighboring village of Maeve in 1972.  They had to rebuild the Fare Pote’e in 1996 after a cyclone destroyed it.  The roof is reconstructed every eight years using local trees.   It takes the town a month to rebuild the roof each time.  The floors are woven into an intricate pattern out of bamboo that is soft on your feet.

Fare Pote'e and Marae in Huahine

Fare Pote’e and Marae in Huahine

As you can tell from the photos, we have had a lot of rain and wind from the maramu. I am sure this is stunningly beautiful on a normal Polynesian day.  There were lots of “marae” surrounding the Fare Pote’e but we could not access them due to the surrounding water (that is not normally there).

Marae flooded due to Maramu

Marae flooded due to Maramu

Stay tuned for more adventures on Huahine as we feed the sacred eels, brave the maramu destruction and visit a distillery. H