Monthly Archives: May 2019

Third Millennium Cross

Monuments of Coquimbo

Coquimbo is peppered with beautiful monuments all over town.  Specifically, the the Millennium Cross, the Mosque, the Mirador, Forte, and fresh markets.

CRUZ DEL TERCER MILENIO – “THE MILLENNIUM CROSS”

The Cruz del Tercer Milenio is Spanish for “Third Millennium Cross”.  This 93-meter-high Monumental Cross is made of concrete. It includes a museum, temple, bell tower, park and stations of the cross. The cross is located a top a hill overlooking the two bays and sits 197 meters above sea level.  Construction began in 1999 and it was completed in 2001.  Notably, this is considered the tallest monument in South America.

  • Cruz del Tercer Mlenio is supported by three bases which represent the Holy Trinity.
  • 10 columns represent the 10 commandments.
  • 12 pillars represent the 12 apostles.
  • It only took 10 months to build the main structure.
  • The monument commemorates the 2000 birthday of Christ.
  • The entire structure was built between two large rocks.
Third Millennium Cross

Third Millennium Cross

You enter the temple through ornate, massive, carved metal doors.  Once inside you are immediately struck by the beautiful simplicity of the temple.  Until, that is you look up to the alter where a vision of gold twinkles in the light and captures your attention. Seeing that from afar draws you into the temple.

Entrance to Cruz

Entrance to Cruz del Tercer Milenio

The bell tower was constructed with a delicate metal alloy that allows it to reproduce in high fidelity, 9 musical notes of the scale. It is operated with an Italian mechanism which can perform over 400 melodies.

Bell Tower of Cruz del Tercer Milenio

Bell Tower of Cruz del Tercer Milenio

The stations of the cross:

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You take an elevator to the arms of the cross where you have a 360-degree view of Coquimbo.  The arrows show you where Sugar Shack is anchored.

View from the T of the Cruz

View from the T of the Cruz

PLAYA HERRADURA – Mirador

Playa Herradura has a few nice lookouts, or miradors.  We took a walk up to one of them and were pleasantly surprised to find many beautiful sculptures.  Coupled with the view, these skinny sculptures provided interesting stories and picturesque photos.

Mirador Playa Herradura

Mirador Playa Herradura

MOSQUE OF COQUIMBO – CENTRO MOHAMMED VI para el DIALOGO DE LAS CIVILIZACIONS

The Mohammed VI Center for the Dialogue of Civilizations, better known as the Mosque , is a cultural center. The minaret of this mosque is a scaled replica of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech , Morocco .

Its construction began in 2004 with the help of artisans and builders from Morrocco. The mosque was inaugurated on March 14, 2007.  If you would like to read more on the Mosque, here is a really interesting blog that goes into detail on the history of the Mosque.

Unfortunately, the Mosque was closed for renovations so we could not go inside.  With this in mind, we were only able to walk around the outside.

Mosque

Mosque

FUERTE COQUIMBO

Also known as Fuerte Lambert, this former 19th century fort offers picturesque views.  Originally built in 1865 to guard the entrance during the war with Spain.  The unique, brick fort was named after Carlos Lambert who reconstructed it in 1879 to protect his ports against possible attacks from the Peruvian Navy during the Pacific War.

Fort Lambert no longer has an operational role militarily, but it is a popular tourist destination because of the views it provides across the Bay of Coquimbo.  There is not much to see at this forte except a few good photo ops.  With this in mind, this fort might have been a good replica of the original fort prior to the renovations.  Now it sort of looks fake and too modern.

Forte de Coquimbo

Forte de Coquimbo

Notice the pirate tourist ship in the background – talk about nice timing.  It is important to realize that they threw away the key.

Forte de Coquimbo

Forte de Coquimbo

PIRATE SHIPS – AHOY!

At the wharf, they have several pirate ships outfitted with all the trimmings including live pirates.  They will sheppard you around the bay in search of gold and other valuable treasures. Evidently, they are “real” pirates as you can see them in the above photos while we were at the Forte de Coquimbo.

Muelle Morgran Pirate Ship

Muelle Morgran Pirate Ship

TERMINAL PESQUERO

Large fish market brimming with fisherman selling their daily catch.  Breathing through your mouth is a must as the fish smells accost your senses like running into a brick wall.   Despite the smell we forged ahead to try to identify the huge variety of fish.

The fish come in off the boats and are loaded into trays.  Next, they are cleaned and hauled into the fish market to sell.  In some cases, they are cleaned inside the market while others are sold right off the dock.  An unidentified delicacy can be seen at the bottom left photo.  It looked like a hard piece of coral. Seeing that it is a crustacean we shied away.  They gently cut off the tip and then scoop out this red gloppy thing to get to the meat.  No, we did not try it.

Terminal Pesquero Coquimbo

Terminal Pesquero Coquimbo

There were several forgotten boats on the coast…always makes you wonder what the heck happened. From now on this will be known as the bird perch…

Fishing boat that has seen better days

Fishing boat that has seen better days

Ship wreck

Ship wreck

Feria de Abastos de Coquimbo

Fresh fruit and veggie market

Coquimbo's Sign by the beach

A10-Mile Walk in Flip Flops?

We were eager to get off the boat to stretch our legs.  We did a little research and found a few of our favorite stores in Coquimbo.  Keep in mind, that Coquimbo is located on the other bay.  But it appeared to only be a few miles away, doable.  A 10-mile walk was not in the plan.

Coquimbo is a port city situated in a valley south of La Serena.  The city was recognized in 1879 and now has approximately 200,000 residents.  This city is easily recognized from sea by the enormous Cruz del Tercer Milenio, giant cross.  We will share our visit with this stunning monument in another blog.

Our first explorations of a new city are just that, explorations.  Locate the stores, see what they have, make note of it, and return another day with bags, carts, or a car.  We were told that we could not walk to Coquimbo because it was not safe and the only way to get there was on the autopista (highway).  But, our trusty maps.me app showed us a walkable route – so we set off.  Thinking that we had a 5-mile walk ahead of us, not a 10-mile walk.

Here is a rough map of our path.  We started in Playa Herradura, the red arrow on the left, then went to Coquimbo (the blue arrow), then along the beach to La Serena (the green area) where.

CoquimboMap of our Walking Path

CoquimboMap of our Walking Path

10-MILE WALK / JOURNEY BEGINS

The town of Playa Herradura is actually very small and does not have the large “box” stores that we were looking for.  So, we needed to head toward Coquimbo.  Using Maps.me we were able to find a nice, safe sidewalk that took us from Playa Herradura to Coquimbo (along the autopista).

Decisions, decisions.  Should we explore the Mosque de Coquimbo and the Cruz del Tercer Milenio or should we continue find the big box stores.  We decided to find the box stores.  Luckily, Coquimbo is large enough that they have a variety of big box stores like:  Jumbo, Lider, Unimarc and the hardware stores like Sodimac Homecenter and Easy.

COQUIMBO DISCOVERIES:

We found a Unimarc across the street from Vivo Coquimbo Mall a decent size shopping mall.  Both were across the street from the Terminal Pesquero (fish market) and Feria de Abastos de Coquimbo (fresh fruit and veggie market).  We stopped in the fish market and walked the Vivo shopping mall.  The Feria de Abastos is not open until Sunday so we forged ahead.

We walked along the beach and found a beautiful bird preserve where lots of varieties of seagulls nest.  There were lots of tourists down by the water, so we enjoyed the view from the bridge.

Seagull Preserve

Seagull Preserve

Our walk would take us along a really long beach to the far edge of Coquimbo.  We did not realize that the other box stores were actually in another town called La Serena.  Perhaps if we used Maps.me to map our route we would have realized that it as over a 10-mile walk.  As we walked down the strand, we found Coquimbo’s sign and had to do our usual tourist thing.

Coquimbo's Sign by the beach

Coquimbo’s Sign by the beach

Coquimbo has a lot of the “Lombard” type streets. They are super colorful and often had people running up and down for exercise.

Windy streets of Coquimbo

Windy streets of Coquimbo

We continued our quest and quickly grew tired.  I forced Matt to stop at Nuevo Pirats a local eatery as I couldn’t move another step.  Earlier, we had a light breakfast and it was close to 1300.  Lucky for us they opened early in order to accommodate us. We picked a seat in the shade and ordered some drinks.  To our surprise we had already logged over 20,000 steps, no wonder I was tired.  We rested for over an hour before packing up and pushing onward.

LA SERENA

After what seemed like eternity, we finally made it to Jumbo Market and Easy (hardware).  It wasn’t until we arrived that I realized we walked into a new town, La Serena.  I did not have enough energy inside me to walk Easy, so we skipped it.  We grabbed a few items at Jumbo and called Uber to pick us up. We collapsed on the boat.

10-Mile Walk Proof

10-Mile Walk Proof

Who walks 10 miles in flip flops?  Nobody in their right mind that is for sure.  Gesh, 2 advil, a light dinner and bed before 2000.

Isla Damas Anchorage

Irksome: Puerto Huasco and Dreamy: Isla Damas

We beat the sunrise again today.  The water was glass out, so Matt decided to pull the anchor as I continued to ready the “house” for our journey.  There is nothing like glassy seas and no wind at dawn.  As the chain was coming up, we got a little surprise.  We had a hitchhiker…now this was neither irksome or dreamy, but be patient and I will get to both.

Sunrise departure with a hitchiker

Sunrise departure with a hitchiker

He eventually fell off, so it was still just Matt and I on the boat.  It was another uneventful motor.  Although the winds did pick up, they were still on our nose.

Matt hooked up one of our large monitors and we watched “She’s out of my league.”  Kind of a silly movie, but it helped to pass the time.

It is lovely in the sun, but you have to hide from the frosty wind.  Being on a sail boat makes it hard to hide from the wind.  I’ve been hanging out in the salon a lot.

It was blowing 15-18 knots of wind when we arrived.  We had not seen that kind of wind in a while.  We were worried it would make this a rolly stop, but lucky for us it died down late in the evening.

AN IRKSOME PORT: HUASCO

Puerto Huasco is a busy little town. It was very surprising to see how big the beach and the town were once we pulled into the bay.  We did not have a zarpe to come to this anchorage, but we decided to stop anyway.  Technically we were not supposed to stop, but we were hoping to “get away with it” as it was late and we would be leaving early.

As we were not planning on getting off the boat.  We arrived at 7p and we were planning on leaving by 6a.  However, once we anchored, we were hailed, by name, on the radio by the local armada.  Luckily, they just wanted to know how long we were staying, how many people on board, and why we stopped (unplanned).  They spoke English and seemed appeased by our answers.  Sweet!

Matt hit the sack while I finished up yet another insurance quote application.  It was close to 915p and we heard the Chilean Navy or Armada hail us on the radio. With both of us in our PJs we had to welcome them aboard.  They reviewed our paperwork and told us we had to pay 8000 pesos ($4) in person tomorrow.  DRAT!  We were planning on leaving at O-dark thirty to make our next destination.  We tried to explain, but they were given orders to bring us in….

Language Barrier, Changing Rules & Regulations

The next morning, we headed to shore.  They did not have a dinghy dock, but they did have a fisherman drop off platform.  The platform and stairs were super wet and slick.  But with help from the locals we made it without incident. One of the guys from the Armada (who came aboard last night) met us at the dock.  He is nice enough and spoke English.  We were irked and perturbed because we had wanted to depart 2 hours earlier.  It was 815a when we arrived at the Capitaneria. We waited, and waited, and waited.  At 915a I got up and tried to hurry things along.

Another 15 minutes later, they explained that the armada in Antofagasta made a mistake and failed to charge us enough money.  In addition, the armada in Caldera and Antofagasta both failed to charge us an entry fee into the country of $110!  We were expected to pay the entrance fee into the country $110 on top of their $69 entrance fee into Huasco. Keep in mind, we had not intended on stepping on shore.  We arrived at 1900 and were planning on leaving at 0600.  So, we ended up having to pay $179 for an 11-hour nap.

Fortunately for us, we did not have that much cash on us and they did not take credit cards.  So, they had to let us leave with the bills in hard.  They asked us to pay when we arrived at our next stop in Coquimbo.

Who Really Made the Error?

What we did not understand was the fact that we paid 8,000 pesos in Antofagasta.  The Armada person who checked us in said this would allow us to go to any port in Chile and this is all we have to pay.  Is it that the other two ports made a mistake or is Puerto Huasco making the mistake?  What an irksome discovery!

Armada in Puerto Huasco

Armada in Puerto Huasco

We were both miffed as we walked back to the dock.  The locals kindness in helping us board our dinghy softened the blow temporarily.  We got back Sugar Shack, pulled up anchor and were leaving the bay at 0945.  As we were motoring out, we were hailed on the VHF again.  The armada told us we had to wait for our zarpe.  WTF!  Gesh…another 25 minutes later, they arrived, handed us our zarpe and we were on our way – only 3.5 hours late.

It doesn’t seem like that big of deal when you consider we are not technically on a timeline.  However, we can only do 5-6 knots with little wind while motoring and heading into the waves.  In order for us to reach our next anchorage in the daylight we should have left at 0600 or 0700 at the latest.  We have been averaging 11-12 hours for a 55-60nm trip.  Shesh what a pain!

Change of Plans:

Because we had left late, we decided to try to stop at one of two closer anchorages.  Yes, we were supposed to head straight for Coquimbo, but our hopes were to find a quiet bay to crash for the night.

The first stop CTA Chanaral ended up being too deep to anchor.  We moved on to the next possible location which was CTA Apolillado.  However, as we came into the bay there were too many rocks sticking up in random places near shore.

DREAMY ANCHORAGE: ISLA DAMAS

Our last option was a small island called Isla Damas located in Bahia Choros.  It is technically a National Park, but there was an anchor on one of our charts.  To our great joy, it was only about 9 meters deep, was somewhat protected from incoming waves and had a beautiful beach view.

Isla Damas dreamy anchorage

Isla Damas dreamy anchorage

After we left Isla Damas we found out that there is a section of this island that is home to many Chilean penguins.  Darn it, we missed them!  It is actually the “Humboldt Penguin National Reserve.”  If only we had internet before we stopped there we could have explored some more.

Miles traveled from Puerto Huasco to Isla Damas 53.5 which took us about 9.5 hours at an average speed of 5.6kts. and max speed at 8.2kts