Monthly Archives: January 2018

Minca view from Casas Viejas.

Minca: Hikes, Waterfalls, and Mud

Minca was founded in 1525 by Spanish conqueror Don Rodrigo de Bastidas and is the oldest city in Columbia and South America.  It’s a small village located 650 meters above sea level with about 1500 residents.  There is one “road” that begins and ends at the quaint center of town.  This road loops around up through the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains where various hotels and hostels are located.

Most people work at the various coffee plantations and remaining villagers focus on tourism.  There are loads of hiking opportunities, waterfalls, horse back riding, and relaxing.  Most people walk up and over the muddy mountains, but you can also take a 4×4 or a motobike. Because Minca is located in the mountains it gets pretty chilly at night, but during the day it is wicked hot.

Our friends Manuel and Nadja from (sv Manado) are now sailing with our friends on Element.  They  joined us for part of our Minca adventure.  We piled into a local taxi which took us to Minca, a short 40 minute drive.  However, before we got too far, we had to stop for fuel – natural gas.

Taxi taking us to Minca, forced us out during fueling of natural gas.

Taxi taking us to Minca, forced us out during fueling of natural gas.

As we approached the entrance to the village we were stopped by the police who asked us to get out and show our passports.  Manuel was patted down, a few bags searched, and we were on our way.  We were deposited in the center of the village and headed up the mountain.  Manuel and Nadja came prepared with tennis shoes, but Matt and I were in flip flops. It was a dirt and deeply rutted road which was often thick of mud.

We headed to our hotel, Casas Viejas which was estimated to be a 2.5 hour walk.  On the way, we stopped at Pozo Azul which is a natural formation nestled in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains.   The “walk” to Pozo Azul from the center of town, is stated to be 31 minutes but it took us almost an hour traipsing through the mud and checking out the views. The water is frigid , but fresh and has a great variety of flora and fauna.

We saw a variety of wildlife along the path.

We found a “shortcut” through a natural reserve called Faunal.  Although it looked vacant, a lone man came out as we approached the small building.  They sell day and night tours through the forest, along with water, and fruit juice.  But more importantly they had a “short cut” up to our lodgings.  The caretaker told us to take the Toucan loop which is a bit longer but we would have a chance at seeing some toucans.  This portion of the walk would take 20 minutes to the main path, then another 35 minutes to La Victoria.  Once in La Victoria, it would be another 35 minute hike to Casas Viejas.  Unfortunately, the toucans were not being friendly and they evaded us.

The Toucan trail becomes a true “hike” through the mountain.  It was dry, for the most part, and took us through a lot of amazing views!

La Victoria provides the only access to our hotel, Casas Viejas, and makes for a convenient resting spot.  La Victoria was established in 1892 and is located in the Northern slope of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.  Situated on 1223 hectares, they dedicated 217 of them to the cultivation of Arabica coffee and 300 hectares for porters.  The surplus balance represents the forest reserve strip an dthe foundation of the water star of the San Lorenzo peak, which has been maintained in its natural state to date.  This lovely location is a coffee plantation with a small brewery.

This La Victoria finca is special as it still uses the same equipment as when it started up in 1892. We visited during coffee-picking season which provided lots of activity.  Coffee beans are hand picked and dropped into one of 20 large basins which carries them to the plantation.  Workers get 30k pesos to fill the large basin, 12k pesos for the medium bin and 6k pesos for a small bin.  Typically, each worker can fill 4 large bins a day.

Over 200 kilos of coffee is produced each year.  They grow small coffee plants in farms, and replant them on the mountain. They only let the plants produce for 7 years and then they cut them down because they can no longer reach the beans.

Top image is one of the 20 basins used to deliver the beans.  The green bin in the front is the “large bin”, the orange is the “medium” and the green on the left is the small bin.  The image on the lower left is the tube that transports the beans to the plantation.  The center lower image shows the baby coffee plants, and the right lower image are the coffee beans.

La Victoria small water falls with the brewery in the background.  Beautiful flowers, the brewery, and the bistro.

The hike from La Victoria to Casa Viejas is supposed to be 20 minutes but I am wondering if that is in dry weather.  It was a very challenging, up hill hike on a very muddy trail and we arrived just as it started to rain.  The main building houses the reception, dining area, bar, and a few accommodations.

Image below: Main house (upper left pic), lounge area around a fire pit (upper right), dinning area (center left), our private room (center right), our private bath (lower left), public men’s room (lower right).

Yep, I took a photo of Matt peeing!

There were breath taking views from Casas Viejas which showcased Santa Marta in the distance.  In the afternoon, the fog would roll in covering all of the surrounding mountains.  Below, is the view, the fog rolling in, property flora and pics of one of our breakfast and dinner meals.

On our first day we walked 7.5 miles which took us a little over 5 hours including stops at Pozo Azul, Faunel, and La Victoria.  We were all exhausted and dirty.  After a few beers, we showered and enjoyed some rest on the rocking chairs.  Matt and I had the only private room & bath in the facility.  The remaining 26 people shared 2 bathrooms.  Dinner and breakfast were absolutely amazing and very tasty!  Who would have thought the food would be so good at a hostel?

The next day we were prepared for a HUGE hike.  Yes, bigger than 7.5 miles!  We were told that the hike would be “gentle and easy” which was perfect as we were a bit tired from the day before.  Look at the map below, find the feather on the left hand side – that is Casas Viejas.  Our plan was to hike to El Campo, to Los Pinos, to Cascada de Marinka, to the hidden falls, and end up in Minca.  A “short 4-5 hour” walk, but alas this was not the case.

Image below: Los Pinos (upper left), view from Los Pinos (upper right), view along hike (center left), coffee farm (center right), Manuel and Nadja horsing around (lower left & right).

The hike from Casas Viejas to El Campo is all up hill on yet another muddy road, but it was cool and we were in good spirits.   Using our trusty Maps.me app we easily found Los Pinos which is where we found 5 indigenous pine trees.  Shortly thereafter we came upon Casa Elemento which brags about having the largest trampoline in the world.  At this junction, we missed our turn and continued on the same path we’d been on for the last hour.  Unfortunately, that did not get us to our destination and as a result we had to back track a mile.  Teach us to not pay attention to Maps.me!

We found Cascadas de Marinka and had the entire place to ourselves.  It was another beautiful waterfall surrounded by trees and fauna.

We cooled off and headed back to the main path toward town.  The Hidden Falls were so well hidden we nearly walked right past them.  We could not access this waterfall, so we took it all in and kept moving.  Six hours and over 12 miles after we left Casas Viejas, we eventually arrived into the village of Minca.  We walked into Lazy Cat, extremely exhausted, super dirty, and ridiculously sweaty.  Despite our appearance, and smell, they seated us on their lower patio with a view of the falls.  After another delicious meal, we had to say goodbye to Manuel and Nadja as they head back to Santa Marta.

Matt and I decided we had tortured our bodies enough so we hopped on motobikes to take us to our lodging.

It took a nap, a shower, and dinner and two drinks to make me feel human again.  Shortly after we crashed and slept for 10 hours.  We had to regroup as we signed up for a 3 hour hike around the coffee plantation on our last day.  You think we are crazy and I’d have to agree!

This was the most difficult hike for me as I was tired from our previous two hikes (logging over 20 miles), had a group of strangers to keep up with, and fought with my flip flops and the muddy trails.  I did my best to keep up, but it was tough – every bone, joint, and muscle in my body was revolting!  On top of that, we had our backpacks with us as we did not plan to return up the hill to Casas Viejas.  We met some lovely back packers from all over the world, found 2 waterfalls, got a little history on the coffee plantation and enjoyed some majestic views.

The tour ended at La Victoria and I had intended on taking the coffee tour, but my body was not having any of that!  So, we rested a bit, hopped on two motobikes into town and caught a bus back to Santa Marta.

Sorry for all of the collage photos but we took so many photos I did not know how else to post them all.

Here are a few more standout photos:

Small waterfall on one of our hikes.

Small waterfall on one of our hikes.

Beautiful view from Casas Viejas

Beautiful view from Casas Viejas

Matt found a Country Pub.

Matt found a Country Pub.

Welcome sign at Minca.

Welcome sign at Minca.

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Life in Santa Marta

The oldest city in Colombia, romantic Santa Marta is fringed by delightful beaches and the stunning mountains of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta range.  Santa Marta is a beautiful little seaside town filled with shops, eateries, bars, discos, malls, and lots of street vendors  It is easy to navigate around, exceedingly clean, and very friendly.  The marina, an IGY marina is very large and provides several amenities including showers, laundry, mini-market, security, WiFi, and good customer service.

At 1800 there is an impromptu happy hour where the cruisers gather to share their stories and watch the sunset.

Sunset from IGY Marina Santa Marta

Sunset from IGY Marina Santa Marta
The XVIII Bolivarian Gameswere being held Santa Marta during our stay. It is a multidisciplinary sporting event that takes place at a regional level every four years among the Bolivarian nations, between November 11 and 25, 2017.

Santa Marta Olympics and their mascot.

Santa Marta Olympics and their mascot.

Athletes from 11 countries compete in 34 sports disciplines.  Competition in golf, volleyball, tennis, mixed equestrian, diving, weight lifting, sailing, soccer, rugby, baseball, boxing, judo, and karate.

All water sports start and end at our marina.

All water sports start and end at our marina.

Gorgeous Tall Ship with teams on the rafters singing!

Gorgeous Tall Ship with teams on the rafters singing!

Across from the marina are a lot of eateries.  There is a bank of cafes right as you exit the marina and then across from the marina is a handful of other tasty treats.  We decided to enjoy sunset from the rooftop bar called “Sunset.”

Santa Marta. Sunset at Sunset's bar.

Sunset at Sunset’s bar.

Along the streets of Santa Marta you will find a lot of vendors selling their wares, but you will also find many fun street performers – everyone is trying to make a buck.

Yikes, bad photo, but these guys were amazing street dancers!

Yikes, bad photo, but these guys were amazing street dancers!

Our friend Barry, from Adventures of an Old Sea Dog even got into the action – here is performing one of his original songs.

INSERT BARRY VIDEO

Barry took us to one of his favorite street vendors.  It was down a dark alley with a few other food carts.  We stopped at the first one and had burgers (I had a chicken burger and they had beef) along with cheese fries and it was amazingly tasty!  All for 8,000 pesos ($2.50).

Matt and I are stocking up before we head to the San Blas Islands where grocery stores are non-existent.  Food is very cheap in Columbia, but you do have to shift your thinking.  They don’t have the same brands or types of foods so you must improvise.  In fact this grocery store, Jumbo is located inside Ocean Mall.  Always fun pushing a grocery cart through a shopping mall.

1 million 300 hundred thousand pesos later - our grocery run of staples. ($400). Shopping at the largest market which happens to be inside a mall.

1 million 300 hundred thousand pesos later – our grocery run of staples. ($400). Shopping at the largest market which happens to be inside a mall.

Some basic staples to fill the bilges for San Blas islands.

Some basic staples to fill the bilges for San Blas islands.

Life in the marina includes:

  • Daily walks to fresh fruit and veggie market.
  • Easy access to loads of restaurants with tasty, cheap food.
  • Close proximity to many cruisers which creates an instant community.
  • Most noteworthy, nightly happy hour.
  • Daily showers.
  • Laundry twice a month.
Sweetie All Dressed Up

Our Dinghy, Sweetie, Gets a Face Lift

As a cruiser, you rely heavily on your dinghy as it is your “water car”.  The only time you don’t need your dinghy is when you are in a marina.

Our dinghy, “Sweet N Low” or “Sweetie” as she is now referred to, has been in dire need of some lovin.  We have needed to work on her for a while, but didn’t have several days in a row where she wasn’t in use.

List of ailments:

  • Rub rail was coming off
  • Velcro holding chaps was peeling off
  • Chaps needed mending (several tears, velcro, patches, and seams)
  • Slow leak, somewhere

Dinghy tubes are typically made from two types of materials: PVC or hypalon.  We have a hypalon dinghy which requires a specific type glue.  Matt found a glue used for escalators, Cement SC 2000 which is a two-step gluing agent that requires several days to cure.

Several chemicals can be used to remove this type of glue.  MEK, acetone, and mineral spirits.  They are wicked on your skin and have a pungent odor.  Several videos show you how to remove the glue as well, but they require tools that we don’t have on the boat. We had a few ounces of MEK to test in small areas.  We had less than a liter of acetone and about 3.5 liters of mineral spirits.  All three seemed to do the same thing, none better than the other.  Since we had more mineral spirits than the other two that became the solvent of choice.

My first thought was to find out where we could get more MEK or acetone so I went to Facebook.  I know, you are thinking she’s lost her marbles.  Maybe–probably,  There is a really good Facebook page for Columbia cruisers and I thought I’d ask them where to get our supplies.  I explained our project and what I was looking for and within an hour I had a reply.  Just not the reply I expected.  I was told to “never, ever ask a local Colombian for acetone as it is a key ingredient used to make cocaine.  And if I were to ask around, they would think I was part of the Pablo Escobar family.”  What the HELL!  Yikes!  Won’t go down that road.  So, we will make due with what we have on board.

Typically, we would avoid showing pornographic images on our blog, but for the sake of education, we will show you Sweetie without her chaps on.  She looks so very sad.

Note the velcro coming off both inside and outside the dinghy, the rub rail (gray & white below the velcro) is coming off and she is all around a mess.

Dinghy in repair

Sweetie’s bow with velcro coming off & rub rail on

Matt removed the rub rail with little effort and looked mournfully at the mound of glue that had to be removed from the entire circumference of the of the dinghy and the rub rail.  All that brownish yellow stuff is old glue.

Dinghy in repair

Sweetie with rub rail off and side velcro in pieces.

The port side of the dinghy had been repaired in the past using Matt’s escalator glue (it dries black) so it was a bigger mess.  Matt tackled the dinghy first while I worked on the rub rail.   We both started with the worst part of the project-the port side.

The troughs had a combination of glue, dirt, sand, and muck.  They didn’t need to be totally glue free, but the chunks had to be removed.  The two gray outer rails and the white center had to be 100% cleaned with no sticky residue as that is where the new glue would be applied.

Dinghy in repair

Rub rail being cleaned. Top cleaned, guck in crevices and bottom full of glue.

It was frustrating because it took a lot of work that garnered very little progress.  It takes a lot of patience and elbow grease.  You can see that what was once yellow is now almost white again.

Dinghy in repair

Matt finishing up removing large pieces of glue by hand.

After removing the large chunks of balls of glue, Matt used a flap wheel.  This removed the last residue of stickiness.

Dinghy repair.

Matt removing last sticky residue with flapper.

The process for the rub rail was a little different  I used a small brush and mineral spirits in a circular motion to loosen up the glue and remove the large chunks.  Then I used the scraper to remove the chunks in the troughs on either side.   Then I used a bristle pad to get the rest of the glue off.

Dinghy repair.

Cleaning the rub rail. Top cleaned, bottom not.

After the chunks were gone, I used the flap wheel to remove the last of the residue.

Dinghy repair.

Rub rail before sanding begins.

It is amazing how nice it looks once all of the old glue is off.  The flapper wheel really cleaned it up and removed the last bits of stickiness.

Matt and I talked through the gluing process several times before he mixed the compound.  We had a lot of area to cover and a limited amount of time to do it in.  First, you mix the two elements together, then you spread a light coat over the dinghy and the rub rail, and then wait an hour.  It took us 50 minutes to cover all areas with the first coat.  So we had 10 minutes to get a drink, rest, and pat ourselves on the back while the compound sat in a bowl of ice water to prevent it from curing.

The second step required us to reapply another light coat over a 3′ section (both the dinghy and rub rail or both the dinghy and velcro), wait 15 minutes until it’s tacky and then stick the pieces together.

Remember how nice it looked all clean and white – now it is all black and gooey.

We were both working with 1/2 kg can that had to cover the exterior rub rail, exterior velcro and interior velcro.  And it had to be applied to all pieces.  Did I mention that the temperature speeds up the process and hardens or cures the compound?  And did I tell you it is HOT!?

Somehow we managed to squeak every drop out of the can to cover everything we needed.  We destroyed several brushes, but it was done.

The only unfortunate thing is that we came up short on one side.  We should have started in the middle and worked our way down each side.  Either the dinghy was super inflated due to the heat or we were supposed to stretch the rub rail more to make it fit.  Too late now, we cannot start over–it is stuck on good!

3" section that came up short.

3″ section that came up short.

We let her dry overnight which gave it strength of 32 lbs per square inch.  Pretty darn strong.