Monthly Archives: December 2017

A Cartagena Fort, Castle, and Bastion

The Walled City is a giant fort in and of itself.  The construction of the Walls of Cartagena lasted nearly two centuries, ending in 1796. The historic center is complemented by fortifications and bastions, where you can watch sunsets.  The Walled City being the largest Cartagena Fort.

In addition to the 7 miles of stone walls that make up the Walled City, you can also visit other forts.  Matt and I had fun exploring several of them.

One of the largest structures built in Columbia is Castillo San Felipe de Barajas which is a World Heritage Site.  San Felipe de Barajas castle was the only access to the city from the mainland.  Not sure if a castle constitutes a Cartagena Fort, but just go with it.

We arrived at the Walled City just as a tourist bus unloaded its passengers.  Drat!  We bought our 15,000 peso tickets and scurried up the hill to get in front of the crowds.  Most of the people were not the “scurrying” type so we had some time to explore on our own.  This was a very large castle.  It just kept going and going and going.  We were able to stand on the walls, check out the bastions, and go on a quest underground.  They opened up several underground tunnels where we believed the soldiers slept.  We were not sure as we did not buy headphones or go on an official tour.

Images: Matt inside a bastion, me next to one, shot between the walls. Matt in a tunnel, fort walls with modern city in back.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Cartagena Fort.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

Images: Fort entrance, me with a pretty view, me locked up, sleeping quarters, and wall exterior.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Cartagena Fort

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

As we were coming out of one of the tunnels, a tour group was at the entrance. The guide was showing how they built the tunnels in such a way to always protect them from intruders.  He joked, in English, that we were pirates so when we came out, I said “Argh, give me all of your money” which garnered muzzled laughs.

On the far end of the Walled City, we discovered a construction zone.  They are building an huge entertainment area.  New restaurants, bars, shops, and an enormous round outdoor theater are being built.  I sure wish we could see this completed – what a hoot it would be to see a play here!

Cartagena Fort. Round Theater

Round theater being built above and image of completed project below.

The Baluarte El Reducto is part of the walls of the Historic Center of Cartagena.  It is a fortification bastion facing the lagoon of San Lazaro.  It was the first work of fortification enclosure built as a result of the enlargement of the city.  On top of the fort is Casa Cerveza, a restaurant that has a beautiful view and a great name!  Who wouldn’t want to live in a Beer House?  (Casa Cerveza=Beer House)

View from Casa Cerveza.

View from Casa Cerveza.

EL fuerte de San Sebastian del Pastelillo is where Club de Pesca is located which is one of the 5 marinas in Cartagena.  Even though there is not much left of the fort, it makes for an impressive entrance to the marina.  I can imagine you’d feel safe keeping your boat within Cartagena Fort waters.

Fuerte Sansebastian

We visited several bastions:

  • Baluarte Santa Catalina
  • Baluarte San Pedro Martir
  • Convento de San Diego

Walking around town we found this cool world map

World Map - where are we?

World Map – where are we?

End to a perfect day – Matt and Teo

Matt and Teo walking and talking.

Matt and Teo walking and talking. Photo credit: Jon Wright

Día de la Independencia de Cartagena

Columbia offers many beautiful destinations, but bring Sugar Shack will only see Santa Marta.  We originally thought about sailing her down to Cartagena, but after arriving in Santa Marta and doing a little research, we felt it’d be best to leave her in Santa Marta and take the bus into Cartagena.

Cartagena in the distance.

Cartagena in the distance.

Our twelve year wedding anniversary is November 11 which also happens to be Cartagena’s Independence Day celebration.  Seems like a perfect time to go on a new adventure, don’t you think?   Jon, Mia, and Teo on “Itchy Footdecided to come on this journey with us.

Pedro de Heredia, a Spanish Commander, founded Cartagena de Indias in 1533. Its rapid growth began after the establishment of the Viceroyalty of New Granada in 1717. The Silver Age of the city is the period between 1750 and 1808. Cartagena became the richest city of the colony at that time.

On November 11, 1811, Cartagena declared its independence from Spain amidst the Peninsular War, which became Latin American Wars of Independence.  Cartagena’s Independence is an important milestone even though the city was almost destroyed in 1815 and Columbia didn’t gain full independence for several more years.

Twenty people were took the Marsol to Cartagena which took a little over 4 hours.  It was a nice bus with reclining seats and AC and it made one stop for food and bathroom breaks.

Comfy little buses transporting us to Cartagena.

Comfy little buses transporting us to Cartagena.

We checked in to our respective hotels and set a meet up place and time.  Matt and I stayed at Casa Ebano 967 for a whopping $35 per night.  Matt is almost touching both walls under the AC unit and the bathroom wall was not much bigger.   It wasn’t big, but it was clean and safe.

Entrance to hotel, two pics of small room, street of our hotel and bathroom in our room.

Entrance to hotel, two pics of small room, street of our hotel and bathroom in our room.

We walked to the Walled Colonial City or “ciudad amurallada” which consists of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a real gem of colonial architecture, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces, and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady patios.

The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks. Only in 1796 was it finally finished, just 25 years before the Spaniards were eventually expelled.

Entrance to Walled City.

Entrance to Walled City.

Walled City from the parade route.

Walled City from the parade route.

The streets are lined with colorful store fronts, offices, apartments, cafes, hotels, hostels, and more.  Several have over scale wooden doors with ornate knockers or smaller doors built into them.  Some are topped with beautiful flowers crawling below their roofs, and yet others sit vacant and alone.

Pedro de Heredia was a Spanish conquistador, founder of the city of Cartagena de Indias

Pedro de Heredia was a Spanish conquistador, founder of the city of Cartagena de Indias.

University of the Arts located in the Walled City.

University of the Arts located in the Walled City.

Beautiful Colored buildings inside the old city.

Beautiful Colored buildings inside the old city.

Tons of flowers grow on and around the buildings.

Tons of flowers grow on and around the buildings.

Many buildings had large wooden doors with smaller doors built inside and large knockers.

Many buildings had large wooden doors with smaller doors built inside and large knockers.

Church dome at sunset.

Church dome at sunset.

Another beautiful dome at sunset.

Another beautiful dome at sunset.

Love these buildings sprouting with blossoms.

Love these buildings sprouting with blossoms.

Matt, Me, Teo, Mia, and Jon. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Matt, Me, Teo, Mia, and Jon. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Playing with the shadows.

Playing with the shadows. Photo credit Jon Wright.

As we made our way to the parade route the crowds great louder.  We saddled up to the crowded barrier and waited for the parade to start.  Evidently, Columbians like to celebrate with foam.  They sell foam canisters for 5,000 pesos and everyone is fair game.  It did not take long before we were covered in a soap type foam that dissolved into a bit of a sticky mess.  Nothing mattered, everyone was fair game and everyone got hit or sprayed, many times.

Oh ya, this tastes good! Photo credit: Jon Wright

Oh ya, this tastes good! Photo credit: Jon Wright

There is a parade in the back ground. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

There is a parade in the back ground. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Mia and Jon have been foamed.

Mia and Jon have been foamed.

The parade started and captured our attention.  It was a beautiful display of costumes, music, beauty contestants, culture, and history.  Many men dress up in female costumes which is part of their heritage.  There were also many men dressed as woman celebrating LGBT we assume since they were out in full force too.

This woman was so beautiful, I believe she is a Miss Columbia contestant.

This woman was so beautiful, I believe she is a Miss Columbia contestant.

I loved this trio.

I loved this trio.

He danced his way across Cartagena in those heels.

He danced his way across Cartagena in those heels.

Still smiling at the end of the parade. White flakes are foam.

Still smiling at the end of the parade. White flakes is foam.

So many bright and beautiful costumes. Loved the yellow.

So many bright and beautiful costumes. Loved the yellow.

Pasties covered their

Pasties covered their “private parts” dancing through town.

Little people with large heads bobbing on down the road.

Little people with large heads bobbing on down the road.

They carried these huge floral arrangements throughout the parade.

They carried these huge floral arrangements throughout the parade.

Just had to show you on fun cross dresser.

Just had to show you on fun cross dresser.

Enjoying the view from the top of the wall. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Enjoying the view from the top of the wall. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Snagged a front row spot and loving it. Photo credit Jon Wright.

Snagged a front row spot and loving it. Photo credit Jon Wright.

Love this little beauty!

Love this little beauty!

Mia and I enjoying a non foam moment

Mia and I enjoying a non foam moment

Interesting Colombian Facts:

  • Colombian pesos are confusing and should therefor drop three zeros.
  • Colombians are hard workers and have an entrepreneurial spirit.
  • Foam does not taste very good.
  • Parade costumes are the most elaborate and elegant ones I’ve seen.
  • The heels they wear (both men and women) are ridiculously high!
  • The streets of Columbia are very clean with little litter.

Mercado Público: “The” Fresh Fruit, Veggie, Meat, & Fish Market

Colombians are very entrepreneurial people selling fruits, vegetables, hats, tchotchkes, clothing, services, cardboard and just about anything.  There are pop up stands, rolling carts, booths, small stores, and large stores selling your heart’s desire.  Do you need a Mercado Público?

Fruits & veggies can be bought on the street by various vendors selling them off push carts or bikes with carts.  This allows them to  easily move their goods around to high traffic areas.

The largest food market we have encountered is called Mercado Público.  The market fills a two story building that takes up the entire block.  And in fact, it is so large that it spills out onto the neighboring streets.  Matt, Mia (from “Itchy Foot”), and I visited this market one morning which was absolutely overwhelming to all of our senses.

We visited the outside fish market first.  There are lot of fisherman selling a variety of fish that have been cut and cleaned for you.  You could get a great fish, if you knew what you were looking at and could put up with the assault on your nose.

Entering the two story building on the first floor you see that it is divided into two sections for fish and meat. We decided to continue to torture our noses by finishing up the fish area.

As we completed the fish section, we crossed over to the meat section which has all meats except chicken.  Where the fish attacked our sense of smell, the meat besieged our vision!  I get it, I eat meat and meat comes from animals.  I am not a vegetarian, but I do not eat red meat (for health reasons).  But, seeing the meat market almost made me change my ways.

We did not make the entire round as you’ve seen one pig’s head and foot you’ve seen them all.  We moved upstairs to the fruit and veggie market which was far more pleasant to see and smell.  In fact, some of it was mouth watering to be around!

In addition to food, you can also buy some pets.  We found a few vendors selling birds in the main building and then stumbled across the pet store street.  In this area, they group like vendors together to make it easier for shoppers.

STREET SECTIONS:

  • pet street
  • hardware street
  • fabric street
  • auto street