Monthly Archives: July 2017

Three Blind Mice

Curacao is a large island with over 159,000 inhabitants including 50-60 nationalities and 20 different religions.  Most of the population is European and African.  We learned that all kids learn 4 languages in primary school including Dutch, Papiamentu, English and Spanish.  In secondary school they can elect to take 2 more languages which is usually either Spanish, German, French, or Portuguese.  So, with our limited linguistic skills we can get by with “American.”  Sure, makes me feel “less than” considering I only know English and a bit of Spanish so I am trying my Papiamentu out as much as possible and the locals sure seem appreciative.  I found a bartender who teaches me something new every day.

We decided to walk to the car rental place which was in the Papagayo Beach Resort.  We had stopped by yesterday but only Jan Theil Car rentals was open and they had a 3-day minimum.  Avis had a car for a total of $68 per day which included tax and insurance.  Matt would take on the challenge of driving around the island, but the good news was that the wheel is on the left side of the car and you drive on the same side of the road as the U.S.  But, there are tons of round-a-bouts and very few street signs.  Unfortunately, we did not grab a map from Avis so we were trying to find our way around the south side of the island with a hokey tourist map which only had major cities and no roads or streets listed.  It grew frustrating very quickly.  We did manage to find Fort Beekenburg which was built in 1703 with stones from Walloon region.  The ships used the stones as ballast on the way here and then filled their ships with salt on the way back.

Matt hanging out in the guard shack.

Matt hanging out in the guard shack.

Old discarded cannons

Old discarded cannons

Wayne admiring the view

Wayne admiring the view

Prisoner shackles up here?

Prisoner shackles up here?

Cannon can shoot a long way out there.

Cannon can shoot a long way out there.

Matt always has to find the tallest peak and climb it

Matt always has to find the tallest peak and climb it

After driving around aimlessly, we got lost a little and made several wrong turns, so we decided to head to the airport to try to find a map.  Somehow, we managed to find the airport and I scored an island guide road map book which had detailed maps of several main cities including a great overall island map!  Wayne, our navigator, is fully armed now!

We tried to find Koraal Tabak because we heard there was a nice hike to a cave.  We found the bay, but we could not find the hike entrance.  We finally gave up because we had gotten too far off the main road and were bumping up and down on dirt roads in our small Kia.  Matt and I will circle back to this area as I want to find this hike and explore the Hato Caves which are nearby.

We did stumble upon a great little find in St. Joris Baai, a place called Fundashon Sint Joris Baai which helps children learn to windsurf who do not have the money to pay for lessons or gear.  They also teach kids how to kitesurf, kayak, mountain bike, and do art. There was nobody home when we visited, but we looked around anyway.

 Fundashon entrance

Fundashon entrance

Entirely made of recycled products.

Entirely made of recycled products.

View from the upper balcony

View from the upper balcony

Shacks where people can sleep - little better than under a bridge.

Shacks where people can sleep – little better than under a bridge.

There are a few other places I’d like to come back and visit on the South side of the island, but we just did not have time to get to them all.  I’d like to see the ostrich farm, do the hike at Koraal Tabak and find the cave, visit the aquarium, Mambo Beach, a few art galleries, and the Hato caves.  Good thing we are here for a few months.

We headed north toward Boca Ascencion to find another hike that lead to turtle beach.  We found Ascencion, but did not find the trail entrance and frankly got tired of driving on the bumpy dirt roads again.  At this point, we were hungry so food became a high priority.  We drove through a small town called Soto and there were no places to eat, no restaurants, nothing.  The next town was Barber and we were certain we would find a thriving metropolis.  Well, no not really, but we did hope to find several places to eat.  We did not find a selection, but we found “4th of July Snack” on the corner of a closed strip mall with several locals hanging out in the parking lot.  When in Rome!  Ruby our super friendly helper, ordered a burger for Wayne, chicken stew for me, and a cabbage dish for Matt.  The burger was Caribbean style on Curacao bread, the chicken stew had a curry sauce and was really tasty and Matt devoured his cabbage with pork that fell off the bone.  A really wonderful local experience!  I’d include a link to this place, but it is so small I could not find anything on the web about it, but you cannot miss if when driving through the small town of Barber.

As our day was coming to an end, there were two more stops we wanted to make.  We were looking for the mushroom forest and the famous blue room  which we thought were located on Playa Santa Cruz.  But alas, we did not the forest or blue room.  Not a problem because the beach on Playa Santa Cruz was beautiful with thatch roofs over picnic benches.  We will come back here tomorrow to snorkel and explore some more.  (Several days later, back at the boat and online, I learned that mushroom forest and the blue room are located at Playa Santu Pretu which is not reachable by car.  You park at Playa Santa Cruz and hike 10 minutes to Playa Santu Pretu).

Playa Santa Cruz

Playa Santa Cruz

Off to the next stop, Playa Lagun which is a small beach with a few fishing boats, free lounge chairs, huge covered cabana, and a restaurant at the top of the hill overlooking this quaint little bay.  The water was absolutely gorgeous a crystal clear turquoise color.  This is at the top of our list for a return visit tomorrow.

Playa Lagoon nestled between two large cliffs.

Playa Lagoon nestled between two large cliffs.

A few fisherman call this bay home.

A few fisherman call this bay home.

Someone stuck fish parts into the rock - what do you see?

Someone stuck fish parts into the rock – what do you see?

Bahia Beach bar overlooks the bay - a mere 42 steps up

Bahia Beach bar overlooks the bay – a mere 42 steps up

We decided to head back to town to try a new place out for happy hour.  We had heard about a local bar called Pops Place which is within walking distance from Fisherman’s Harbor.  We found a breezy table, ordered a couple of drinks and admired the scenery.

Pops Place Bar and Grill

Pops Place Bar and Grill

They must have just caught some fresh fish as there was a bit of a smell coming from the kitchen so we packed up and headed back to the Pirate’s Nest to capture the sunset and the last remaining minutes of happy hour.

Me being silly

Me being silly

Curacao on Foot

Another cruise ship came into Willemstad so we decided to explore on foot and rent a car for tomorrow.  We headed back to Fisherman’s harbor, tied off the dinghy, hopped on the bus, and arrived in Punda around 10am.  Our goal was to explore Otrobanda and Pietermaai since we did not get a chance to see these areas yesterday.  We headed to the Pietermaai district which is considered the “SoHo” of Curacao.  It has a lively environment and rich history with small shops, bars, restaurants, hotels and pretty architecture that creates a lively and cozy neighborhood.

Map of Pietermaai district that would have been helpful to have on our walk - we did not do this entire path, but made up our own.

Map of Pietermaai district that would have been helpful to have on our walk – we did not do this entire path, but made up our own.

Cool art mural found on our Peitermaai walk.

Cool art mural found on our Peitermaai walk.

These houses are used in all Pietermaai marketing.

These houses are used in all Pietermaai marketing.

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Local architecture

Little. rustic cafe hidden on a small street with a covered patio.

Little. rustic cafe hidden on a small street with a covered patio.

Love this bench! If we lived in our house, this would be on our deck.

Love this bench! If we lived in our house, this would be on our deck.

Matt enjoying an ocean breeze after our long, hot walk.

Matt enjoying an ocean breeze after our long, hot walk.

Art sculpture as we were leaving Pietermaai.

Art sculpture as we were leaving Pietermaai.

Although we did not walk around the entire district, we had worked up a sweat and decided to eat at Plein Café Wilhelmina which looked like a fun, lively little place with wifi and a cool breeze.  We ordered a couple of panini’s, some beer, and a typical drink from Curacao.

Curacao drink that looks like the ocean waters.

Curacao drink that looks like the ocean waters.

Now that we were rested, fed, and cooled off a bit, we headed to Otrobanda.  I heard that there was a walking tour and several streets with cool architecture but we just could not find it.  We walked and walked and walked and found ourselves in areas that were not very photo worthy.  Bit of a disappointment but it could easily have been the fact that we did not have a map and might not have been in the right area of Otrobanda.  Before we left town, we did snap a silly photo with some pretty art.


We hopped back on 6A back to Caracasbaai and decided to take the bus to the end which was only 3 bus stops passed ours.  At the end of the route are two high-end beach clubs – the Jan Thiel Beach Club with 4 bars/restaurants and Papagayo Beach Club which is a trendy, upscale resort.  We had heard that the beaches on this side were man-made, but they were still very beautiful. There are also car rentals, boutique shops, and a nice supermarket, Van Der Tweel (it was a lot smaller than the one we found in Bonaire, but equally as nice).  We walked the entire shoreline and scoped out our favorite fancy bar, Zanzibar which offered beer for $7 (we normally pay $2-3), a pretty view, gorgeous beach, and super beautiful atmosphere.

Papagayo Beach Resort.

Papagayo Beach Resort.

Papagayo Beach Resort

Papagayo Beach Resort

Zanzibar Beach Resort.

Zanzibar Beach Resort.

Exploring Willemstad

We piled into Sweet N Low and headed to Fisherman’s Harbor where we could tie up for free, drop our trash, and find a bus into town.  Spanish Waters is about 25-35 minutes away from Willemstad where we must do our formalities.  We had a “general” idea of where each of the 3 places were, but no map and no idea which bus to take to get us there.  A great opportunity to talk to the locals.  We easily found the dinghy dock, dropped our trash, and were told where to find the bus stop.  A short walk and 10 minutes later, a large tour like bus (with 6A Carracasbaai) arrived, opened the doors and I peered in.  Do you go to Willemstad?  Yes, we do.  Great, we paid $1 each and got back some guilders (Dutch currency which has an exchange rate of about 1.7 to $1) and enjoyed the ride.  Since Wayne had checked out some online maps he led the way to our first stop. Customs.

We did a little site seeing on the way since we are in the capital Willemstad, which is a twin city with Punda on the east and Otrobanda (means other side) on the west.  Punda is the oldest part of Willemstad and is a unique mixture of Dutch and Caribbean influences.  Centuries of Dutch rule, slave trade and commerce come alive when you pass through the streets here.  The heart of Punda is geared toward the tourists and is formed by broad shopping areas with mazes upon mazes of streets filled with shops and small eateries with loads of local vendors selling their wares all over the place.  Reminded me a bit like downtown LA or maybe the cleaner side of Tijuana.  We quickly came across the floating market which sells fresh fruits, vegetables and fish.  This is one of the best produce markets we have encountered.  Venezuelan’s and Columbian’s load up their fishing boats with fresh produce and vegetables (that are not available and do not grow on Curacao) from their home country and come to Punda to sell them to locals and tourists.  They stay in Curacao for 2 months, go back to their home country for 2 months and return again.  They rotate so that there are always boats of food available in Curacao.

Rows of Stands: Fruit & Veggie Market

Rows of Stands: Fruit & Veggie Market

Mouthwatering-YUMMINESS!!

Mouthwatering-YUMMINESS!!

The back of the floating market at Punda.

The back of the floating market at Punda.

They also have a fresh fish floating market every morning. Certainly, a place we will come to often!

Fish market-one of many boats

After a wrong turn or two and help from a security guard, we found Duane (aka customs).  Normally, Matt goes in alone to clear the boat and crew into a new island (as customary in most countries).  However, in Bonaire and Curacao they require everyone to come to shore.  Customs was pretty straight forward and easy.  Next, we needed to find immigration which we knew was in Otrobanda.  So, we headed to the famous Queen Emma floating pontoon bridge that connects Punda to Otrobanda.  The floating pontoon bridge is made up of 16 floating pontoons and swings open frequently to allow boat traffic through, even while there are people on the bridge.  From 1901 to 1934, people had to pay a toll (of 2 cents) to cross the bridge if they wore shoes.  So, the wealthy took their shoes off and the poor borrowed shoes to maintain a sense of pride.

Floating pontoon bridge, Queen Emma.

Floating pontoon bridge, Queen Emma.

Mural of the floating pontoon bridge.

Mural of the floating pontoon bridge.

But as we approached the area, there was no bridge, what?  We noticed ferries were running so we looked across to Otrobanda and saw that the floating bridge was tied up to the side of the wall – must mean a large ship is coming through. So, we hopped on the ferry to get to Otrobanda.   Once across the other side, we made several wrong turns, asked many locals for directions, were sent to immigration, but not for incoming yachts and got a bit turned around.  We eventually found a security guard at the entrance to an industrial dock who took Matt’s passport, jotted some info down, handed us a piece of paper and allowed us through.  Hmph!  Well, we walked on in, walked down a long industrial dock until we came upon a building that looked like a photo we had seen online.  Success, we found immigration.  After we completed that paperwork, we went upstairs to port authority which was in a narrow and cramped hallway, maybe 4’ wide by 15’ deep and it already had 3 people waiting.  So, we waited, and waited.  Luckily it was air conditioned and the lady was really nice.  But she did have to educate us on anchorages.  Evidently, we cannot move from our current anchorage in area B to the any other area A, C, or D without coming back to alert port authority, paying 10 Naf ($5).  What?  Why does it matter if we move around the same bay?  But at this point we were so tired, we did not want to make a stink or cause any more delays.  She then informed us that if we wanted to go to any of the other island anchorages (Fuik Baai, Piscadera Bay, Santa Martha, or Santa Cruz), we had to come back to port authority (PA) and tell them our schedule.  We could only stay 3 days at each anchorage and it costs 10 Naf per anchorage.  Wow, they don’t make it easy to be a boater here.  But, either way, we were cleared in after 4 hours.

Spanish Waters anchorage.

Spanish Waters anchorage.

Anchorage areas, A, B, C, D located in Spanish Waters. Would have been helpful to have the GPS coordinates while anchoring.

Anchorage areas, A, B, C, D located in Spanish Waters. Would have been helpful to have the GPS coordinates while anchoring.

Giant metal art sculpture in the heart of Punda.

Giant metal art sculpture in the heart of Punda.

View of Otrobanda from Punda.

View of Otrobanda from Punda.

Cool heart sculpture where you place a lock for love.

Cool heart sculpture where you place a lock for love.

We were starving so we grabbed lunch at a Latin fusion restaurant called Kriollomania.  We ordered a mixed grill for 2 people which had 2 pork chops, 2 sausages, a huge pile of chicken, huge pile of beef, rice, and french fries.  I mean who can eat all of that?  It was pretty tasty but we had to move on as we had a tour booked.  We headed to the Maritime Museum where we met our tour group and then proceeded down to the ferry dock to start our harbor tour.  Our tour guide gave us a lot of great educational information about the history of the harbor.

Fort Nassau is an old fort that has been turned into a restaurant situated high upon a hill at the harbor entrance giving its diners a 360-degree view of Punda and Otrobanda.

Fort Nassau up on a cliff.

Fort Nassau up on a cliff.

Busy industrial harbor bringing in a lot of revenue for the government.

Busy industrial harbor bringing in a lot of revenue for the government.

Giant sign / art that make for great photos.

Giant sign / art that make for great photos.

I tried to sit on the "H" but could not get up so I settled for the "U". Dushi means "sweet"

I tried to sit on the “H” but could not get up so I settled for the “U”. Dushi means “sweet”

After a long day ashore, we caught the bus back to Caracas Baai (6A) and decided we earned a well-deserved cold beverage at the Pirate’s Nest which could easily be a place we frequent often!

Pirate's Nest

Pirate’s Nest

Butler pirate offering a 3 course meal for $34

Butler pirate offering a 3 course meal for $34

Sleeping pirate awaiting an attack from the fish below.

Sleeping pirate awaiting an attack from the fish below.

Suave pirate trying to take over for Johnny Depp.

Suave pirate trying to take over for Johnny Depp.

Only happy pirates at the Pirate's Nest.

Only happy pirates at the Pirate’s Nest.