Isle de Pines

Ile des Pins: Captain Cook Stopped and Stared

If someone handed you a paintbrush and asked you to create the perfect tropical island, you’d probably end up with something very close to the Isle des Pins aka Ile de Pins.

Located about 60 kilometers south of NoumĂ©a, the Ile des Pins earned its name in 1774 when Captain James Cook spotted the island’s towering columnar pine trees rising dramatically above the horizon.

He was shocked at the scene before him and aptly named them Ile des Pins.

To sailors approaching from sea, those distinctive pines must have looked like nature’s version of a welcome sign.

After dropping the hook and sitting on a mooring, we were in awe of the beautiful pines.

These tall narrow pines, scientific name “Araucaria columnaris” stand 10-20 meters (32 – 65 feet) above the canopy of any neighboring trees and can reach heights up to 60 meters (196 feet).  It is quite an arresting scene.

Today, the island is not only famous for its pines but also for its crystal-clear waters, white-sand beaches, and the stunning natural swimming pool of Oro Bay. The water is so clear that fish seem to float in mid-air, leaving visitors wondering if they’ve accidentally wandered into a screensaver.

But beneath all that beauty lies an interesting history. The island is home to the Kanak people, who have lived here for centuries.

An Island Prison

During the late 1800s, the French used the island as a penal colony, sending political prisoners here after the Paris Commune. Not exactly the tropical vacation package advertised today.

Villages were set up for prisoners, refugees, and workers.

You can visit remnants of old buildings still standing from the 1800’s.

We found a church, the prison wall, a bunker, and an ammunition storage.

Wes tumbled across the old jail compound which is very eerie.

Old Jail

Old Jail

Remains of a Penal Colony – an old water tank. from 1874

The Vagina and Penis Peninsula 

In the neighboring bay of Kanumera you will find the penis peninsula and the Vagina Rock.  Both interesting names.  

The Vagina Rock is a sacred rock where the locals believe that couples can spend the night here with the hope of conceiving children.

It is a stunning rock that has a beautiful, white sandy path leading from shore during low tide.

Once we crossed over the path we saw up in the bushes the “boom boom room” where we assume the locals go to try to get pregnant.

A Tradition of Carving

As soon as we stepped foot onto the island we were greeted with towering, hand-carved tikis.  

We were lucky enough to catch one of the carvers hard at work.

Locals place these carvings all around the island, near the docks, near important sites, buildings, and homes.

Now, tourism and traditional Kanak culture peacefully share the island. Visitors come for the snorkeling, diving, and scenery, but often leave with an appreciation for the island’s rich heritage and unique way of life.

The Ile des Pins may look like paradise—and it certainly is—but it’s also a reminder that every beautiful place has a story beneath the surface.

One clever local turned plastic bottles into jelly fish art.

Find Ile des Pins on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We visited Ile des Pins toward the end of June 2026.

Did Matt name an island after himself?  Be sure to read about it.

Matt Lands on Ilot Mato

Our new destination is Isle de Pines which is about 80nm from where we are anchored (MB’e Kouen).  In order to get there we have to head southeast which is directly into the tradewinds.    So, we waited for a really light wind day and headed in that general direction with the plans of stopping at an island named after Matt – Ilot Mato.

We decided to break up the trip into a few days as opposed to doing an overnight.  So, our first stop will be Ilot Mato which is about a 39nm trip.

From the map below you can see the many reefs surrounding the tiny little island of Mato.  Matt expertly maneuvered the boat to the anchor spot.

We anchored around 3:00p and quickly hopped in the dinghy to explore ashore.

Ilot Mato

Ilot Mato

A Snake Filled Mountain

We learned that there was a “trail” to the top of the mountain.  We found the “start” which was a little sketch as it was totally overgrown.  

It wasn’t that this was a particularly steep incline as it was only 150′ to the top.  And it wasn’t that it was a long hike as it only took us 40 minutes (up and down) and was a mere .4 miles. 

But what was difficult was the fact that the “path” was incredibly overgrown, you could not see the ground, there are huge holes all over the place, the ground caves in, and there are poisonous snakes!  Yep, snakes!

Just when you think you put your foot on solid ground it gives way and you land inside someone’s living room.  Thank goodness there were no occupants in any of the holes I fell through!

The views of the anchorage were lovely.  You could see the reef jutting out from the island to the anchorage.

This view almost makes the hike worth it – “almost.”

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events. 

We were in Ilot Mato toward the third week of June 2026.

Find Ilot Mato on No Foreign Land.

Be sure to check out the beautiful Ilot Kouen in our last blog post.

M’Be Kouen: White Sand Ilot, Bordered by a Reef

A little slice of paradise, Mbé Kouen is a small island of fine sand, bordered by a pretty reef in the middle of a turquoise water.

Photo courtesy of Jaqui Sparks, Wainani from the airplane.

Photo courtesy of Jaqui Sparks, Wainani from the airplane.

This little Ilot is surrounded by a reef which is then surrounded by another reef.  So, how do so many sand dollars make their way on to the beach?

On a light wind day, we sailed from Ilot Signal to Ilot MB’e Kouen.

We were the only boat in the anchorage and had this beautiful spot all to ourselves.

Of course some remoras and squid considered it their home first.

Matt got the drone out to show off this beautiful anchorage.

Ilot MB'e Kouen

Ilot MB’e Kouen

We are actually inside a reef (where Sugar Shack is anchored).  And yet, there is another reef around the little MB’e Kouen Island.

Do you think they can see the smiley face from out space?  

Ashore at MB’e Kouen

We took the dingy ashore which was fairly easy. 

There is a light blue water way from the anchorage to shore.  We dropped the hook, scared off a flock of birds and started exploring.

This little spit of sand seemed to be a grave site for tons of sand dollars. 

Most of these beauties were broken, but a few found their way back to the boat.

This really is a beautiful spot.  Perfect lunch spot.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We visited MB’e Kouen toward the end of June 2026.

Find MB’e Kouen on No Foreign Land.

Be sure to read about how Signal Island got its name in our last blog post.