Meet the Kagu: The Bird That Can’t Fly but Can Bark

Leave a reply

If you’ve ever wanted to stroll through a tropical forest while being judged by birds and outsmarted by monkeys, the Michael Corbasson Zoological and Forest Park in Nouméa is the place for you. It is home to a large population of New Caledonia’s national bird, the kagu (or cagou or cagu)!

Spanning more than 34 hectares, the park is home to a remarkable collection of New Caledonian birds, wildlife and native plants.

As you wander the shaded trails, you’ll discover giant kaori trees, curious reptiles, playful primates, and a variety of tropical birds. The park serves as an important conservation center, helping to protect many of New Caledonia’s unique species and educate visitors about the island’s extraordinary biodiversity.

Kagu: New Caledonia’s Celebrity

One of the star attractions is the kagu, New Caledonia’s national bird. Found nowhere else on Earth, this flightless bird sports a stylish crest and an unforgettable bark-like call that sounds more watchdog than bird.

These magnificent birds have beautiful striped wings, sporty crests on their head, blood red eyes, and fat gray bodies.  They love to eat meat and worms and have an unusual “bark” squawk. The Kagu make this morning and evening cry sounding remarkably like a bark.

Kagu’s mate for life.  Females lay one egg each year.  The young are raised by their parents for a few years before it moves to another territory to find a new community.

The Zoological And Forest Parc is home to several young Kagu and we were able to spot one!  He not nearly as attractive as his parents, but there is hope yet!

When it feels threatened, it runs quickly and hides. However, they can also fan out their wings and raise their crests if it cannot flee or if it has a chick with it.

I had really wanted to see the kagu with its raised crest but it simply would not cooperate.

Aviary More Than a Zoo

Even though New Caldonians classify this as a zoo it is more of an aviary.  They have an unusually large number of bird exhibits.

But running free throughout the park are hundreds of peacocks.  They even had several albino breeding pairs.

One of my favorite, new birds is the “Cloven-feathered Dove” with furry boots (center bottom image)

So much color in these beautiful feathered friends.

Leaping Lemurs

They have five feisty male lemurs living on their own little island in the zoo.  They were just fed their morning snack and enjoyed showing off their score!

Little Farm

As you enter the Zoological and Forest Parc you first encounter their “little farm.”  It was really kind of funny as they had 1 deer, 1 donkey, 4 rabbits, and 1 pig.

Matt is pointing out the “domestic ass.”

Whether you’re a nature lover, bird enthusiast, or simply looking for a peaceful escape from the city, the Zoological and Forest Park offers a fascinating glimpse into the wild side of New Caledonia.

Find the Zoological and Forest Parc on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We visited the Zoological and Forest Parc on 17 June 2026.

Aquarium de Lagons: From Ethereal Seahorses to Ancient Nautilus

Leave a reply

Come with me as I take you through the underwater world of New Caledonia!  We visit the Aquarium de Lagons where you journey through several marine ecosystems.

You’ll wander through freshwater rivers, mangrove forests, coral reefs, the famous lagoon, and even the mysterious deep sea.

The first residents to greet you are a set of 3 happy, spotted rays that delighted us with their under bellies.

The aquarium is famous for its nautilus collection—living fossils that have been cruising the oceans for millions of years and somehow still haven’t upgraded their shells.

We were blessed during our visit where this giant nautilus was on full display, swimming (if you call it that) around its tank and bumping along the rocks.  

Be sure to check out my Instagram and Facebook posts with the video.

I’ve been a great admirer of nautilus shells but never had the pleasure of seeing the critter that lives inside.  What a fantastic and magical experience it was to witness this guy venture around his tank.

The aquarium also plays an important role in marine research, conservation, and sea turtle rehabilitation, helping protect the unique marine life of New Caledonia’s UNESCO-listed lagoon.

They had 4 very large sea turtles in tanks that were viewable from the top, sides, and bottom!

Seahorse Exhibit

One of the most enchanting exhibits at the aquarium is the seahorse display. Delicate, graceful, and seemingly designed by an artist with a vivid imagination, these tiny creatures drift through the water while holding onto seagrass with their curled tails.

Watching them is a reminder that some of the ocean’s most fascinating residents are also among its smallest.

Fun fact: in the seahorse world, it’s the males that carry and give birth to the babies—a role reversal that never fails to surprise visitors!

Leopard Sharks

The aquarium’s two leopard sharks are another crowd favorite. Despite their intimidating name, these beautifully patterned sharks are gentle bottom-dwellers that spend much of their time gracefully cruising their habitat.

Their distinctive spotted markings make them look as though they’ve borrowed a fashion tip from a leopard, while their calm demeanor proves they’re more interested in minding their own business than starring in a shark movie.

Watching them glide effortlessly through the water is both relaxing and mesmerizing.

Whether you’re escaping a rainy day, entertaining the kids, or simply looking for an excuse to stare at fish for an hour or two, the Aquarium des Lagons is one of Nouméa’s most fascinating attractions. Just don’t be surprised if the fish seem to be judging your life choices as you walk past.

After all, they do live in one of the most beautiful lagoons on Earth.

Find the Aquarium de Lagons on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual events.

We visited the Aquarium de Lagons on 16 June 2026.  It was truly one of my very favorite aquariums.  Not because it is huge or modern or full of unusual creatures.  But simply because it kept it simple and made the most of the exhibits it did have like the rare nautilus, seahorses, and leopard sharks.

Nouméa: Where the Pacific Meets Paris

Leave a reply

After nearly a week at sea, our expectations for Nouméa were simple: calm water, a place to clear customs, a baguette, and a cold drinks.

What we found instead was a little slice of France floating in the South Pacific.

One minute you’re navigating through one of the world’s largest lagoons, surrounded by turquoise water and coral reefs. The next, you’re tying up to the dock and debating which bakery has the best croissants. It’s a transition that can leave a sailor with a touch of cultural whiplash.

Ilot Kouen. Photo courtesy of Tony & Jaqui on Wainani.

Ilot Kouen. Photo courtesy of Tony & Jaqui on Wainani.

We docked at Port Moselle Marina where we checked into the country and settled in for a week.

Nouméa is the capital of New Caledonia, a French territory with a population of around 100,000 people. French influence is everywhere—from the language and architecture to the cheese selection that somehow seems larger than some Pacific islands.

For sailors, however, the real star is the lagoon. Stretching for thousands of square kilometers and protected by one of the world’s longest barrier reefs, it offers spectacular cruising grounds, abundant marine life, and water so blue it occasionally looks photoshopped.

The Noumea lagoon has over 1,600km of reef and is considered one of the largest lagoons (24,000km2) in the world listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Of course, life ashore has its own attractions. The waterfront promenades, bustling markets, and endless cafés provide a welcome break from fixing things on the boat. 

Shopping Galore

There are dozens of bakeries and cafes within walking distance to the marina. 

The French like their breads and coffees so you will find a bakery or cafe at every corner. We indulged every day with fresh baguettes and pastries! 

Abundant Bakeries

Abundant Bakeries

Right next to the Port Moselle Marina is a large fresh produce market! 

What a dream it is to have access to such a bountiful supply of produce!

We are within walking distance to several grocery stores as well such as Auchon, Carrefour and Geant! 

We can find pretty much everything in Noumea.

In the parking lot behind the marina is a pop up area that sells tourist stuff including clothing, carvings, paintings, and more.

Restaurants

There are loads of eateries around town. 

You can go to upscale restaurants, take away cafes, take away at markets, or the food trucks located minutes from the marina.

Nouméa has a way of sneaking up on you. Come for the lagoon, stay for the baguettes and wine, and leave wondering why every marina doesn’t have a bakery within walking distance.

For a sailor arriving from afar, it’s a destination that feels both wonderfully Pacific and delightfully French—a combination that’s surprisingly hard to sail away from.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We arrived in Noumea on the 12 of June 2026.