Kiribati: The Bloodiest Battle of WWII

We planned to stop at Kiribati to break up our long passage from the Marshall Islands to Fiji.  Imagine our surprise when we learned the the most catastrophic loss of life and the bloodiest battle of WWII took place at Tarawa, Kiribati.

WWII Relics and Remnants

We first discovered heaps of WWII remnants in Maloelap and Wotje in the Marshall Islands.  It was fascinating, frightening, and intriguing all at the same time.

As we arrived Kiribati, we learned that the most deadliest WWII battle took place in this very atoll. 

A Little History on Kiribati

The Gilbert group of islands host a number of World War II historical sites. Tarawa, Butaritari, Abemama (also the ocean island of Banaba) were invaded by the Japanese in 1941, just after they bombed Pearl Harbour. Afterward, the Japanese fortified the atolls, 

In 1942 and 1943 US Marines conducted a number of large scale raids to remove the Japanese presence. The Battle of Tarawa is reputedly one of the bloodiest battles ever fought. During the 76 hour fight, casualties on the invading side rose up to over one thousand (of 18,000 men). The Japanese had only 17 survivors and lost over 4,500 soldiers.

The island was heavily fortified by the Japanese and secured by 4,500 soldiers besides machine guns, pillboxes dug in heavy concrete (100 of them), a long trench system, airstrip, seawalls, antiaircraft guns, light tanks, heavy machine guns, a natural coral reef, barbed wire and mines. According to Admiral Keiji Shibasaki, USA couldn´t take the atoll even with a million men in one hundred years.

Some of the kids we met on our WWII tour along with our tour guide Molly Brown (+686.7300.1016).

The Battle

By November 19th, 1943, US troops had arrived nearby the atoll. The plan was ready, and the ships carried 18,000 marines to take on the tiny island with only 4,500 Japanese soldiers. US plan was to bombard the island heavily and then move on with special vehicles that could go on into the water and come out to the sand moving through tight reefs with no effort. These cutting-edge vehicles for the time were called amphtracks and carried 20 soldiers behind machine guns.

The morning of the 20th was the first battle day of the invasion. The tide was lower than expected and the result was disastrous for US troops because they were stuck with the water to the chest and had to leave their vehicles far from the beach advancing on foot under heavy enemy fire. The attack suffered a number of problems and finally, securing the island was one of the most complicated missions US troops had during the entire war.

Photos courtesy of Visit Kiribati's Blog

Photos courtesy of Visit Kiribati’s Blog

Today, relics of the battles and forts can be visited as a living museum of this part of history.  This is what was left behind:

  • Coastal Defense Guns (48″)
  • Solid concrete bungers and pillboxes
  • Tanks, amtracs, ship wrecks and plane wrecks

Walking through WWII history

Today, relics of the battles and forts can be visited as a living museum of this part of history. 

We only had 2 days in Kiribati so we were not able to unearth all of the relics. However, we did take a tour with a local, Molly Brown. Her grandfather and uncle were alive during the war.

On the northern end of Tarawa and we found (4) bunkers amongst the locals yards and cemeteries.  There are bunkers all over the little island.

These bunkers were on the beach.  You could creep inside but it was full of bugs, spider webs, and trash.

I love this shot.  It has a bunker in the foreground and two coastal defense guns in the background.

We came across several structures that were either ammunition depots or some other massive storage facilities.

This is the Commander’s bunk. As you can see, it was heavily attacked.  Yet, it is still standing.

This pillbox (top) was dug up from the sand.  The bottom right is a storage unit from WWI (1905). Bottom left is an ammunition storage area.

War Memorials

We found several memorials dedicated to the thousands of soldiers who lost their lives during this battle.  British memorial below.

This U.S. memorial dedicated to the marines and navy troops.

The Japanese and Korean Monument.

Weapons, Tanks, and Guns

Our tour guide, Molly Brown took us to the Police station because they have two live shells stored.

Strangely enough they had lots of tanks on Kiribati.  Children play on these dilapidated tanks.

At a playground we found two guns and a war memorial from New Zealand.

More weapons.

Pieces of turrets, coastal defense guns, and other weaponry. 

Interesting sites on Kiribati:

  • WWII Tours: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/world-war-ii/ 
  • WWII Relics: www.visit-kiribati.com/exploring-kiribati/historical-relics-every-vacationer-need-to-see/

Sugar Shack’s WWII Findings in the Marshall Islands

We had the opportunity to discover and explore many WWII relics while in the Marshall Islands.

  • Maloelap WWII Relics Part I: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/maloelap-wwii-remnants-part-i/
  • Maloelap WWII Relics Part II: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/maloelaps-wwii-remnants-part-ii/
  • WWII Remnants of Wotje Part I: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/wwii-remnants-on-wotje-part-i/
  • WWII Remnants of Wotje Part II: https://www.svsugarshack.com/2025/01/wwii-remnants-on-wotje-part-ii/

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events. 

We visited Kiribati around 4/11-4/13 2025.  Be sure to read about our passage to Kiribati.

Kiribati is the Center of the World

Kiribati (pronounced Kiribas) is an independent Republic within the Commonwealth of Nations.  It gained its independence in July of 1979.  Kiribati is located 360nm from the Marshall Islands, 1100nm from Fiji, and 900nm from the Solomon Islands.

This country has 33 coral atolls divided among three island groups: the Gilbert Islands, the Phoenix Islands, and the Line Islands.

Kiribati is the only country in the world that is located in all four hemispheres.  It crosses the international dateline and the equator.

Approximately, 110,000 people call Kiribati home with more than half of those people living on Tarawa.  21 of the 33 islands are inhabited and are mostly located in the Gilbert group.  

These 33 atolls are spread out over 1 million square miles of ocean.  The average height for the islands is a mere 4m tall.

We only planned to stay in Kiribati for a few days.  Afterward headed to Funafuti, Tuvalu and then on to Fiji.

Passage to Kiribati

Sugar Shack departed from the Majuro anchorage at 1600 on a nice sunny day.  We anticipated a 3.5 day passage covering 363nm.  What we did not really consider was the 2.5 hour sail inside the Majuro lagoon to get to the pass.  We also did not really consider the fact that we had to go all the way around the Majuro atoll to get to the rum line.  So the overall trip was a little longer in miles but shorter in time.

  • Total time travelled:  63 hours
  • Total miles travelled: 415nm
  • Average Speed: 6.5kts and max speed 11.6kts
  • Motoring / Motorsailing time: 18 hours

The first 45 hours provided great wind and boat speed.  However, the wind died down to 5-6kts forcing us to motor the last 18 hours.  But, overall a decent passage.

What broke?

It is not unusual for something to tear or break during passage.  On this trip, we lost the steering gear box on Starboard.  Yikes!  Lucky for us, auto pilot was still working and we have use of the port steering.  We will have to wait to be at anchor to evaluate the damage.

We also noticed that the bearings in the roller furler will need to be replaced (we just did this in NZ 1.5 years ago).  It is still functional but will have to be babied.

Formalities

Upon entry into Kiribati waters, we hoisted our “Q” flag and hailed Tarawa Radio on VHF 16.  The official who took our call organized Customs, Immigration, and Bio Security to come onboard.  It took us about 45 minutes to complete the paperwork and show them around the boat before we became welcomed into their country.

Short Stay

We had a very short stay in Kiribati.  However, we were able to sail over to Bikenbeu where we cleaned the waterline and enjoyed the pretty scenery.  We then headed back to Tarawa so we could do a WWII tour (see next blog) and clear out of the country.

All in all we stayed for 2.5 days.  Short time, but enlightening.

Interesting sites on Kiribati:

  • Visit Kiribati: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/culture-island-explore/
  • Kiribati Tourism: www.kiribatitourism.gov.ki/kiribati-experiences/culture-island-explore/

Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  We sailed to Kiribati from 4/8-4/11.

Be sure to read about our last days in Majuro.

The Return to Majuro

It was time to return to Majuro after spending a month in the States.  We started our long return trip back to Monday on Monday and arrived on Thursday.  It is not as bad as it seems.

Texas to California

We woke up in Boerne (San Antonio, TX) at the Melnar’s house.  Matt and I drove the 1 hour 45 minutes to Austin.  We enjoyed our last TexMex meal at Maudie’s before we went to the airport.  We had a 3hr15min flight from Austin to Los Angeles where we arrived at 7:30pm.  Finally, we collected our 3 bags totaling 150lbs and went to Kimberly’s house.

My sweet sister made a delicious meal for us and then we spent the next 3 hours repacking our bags.  I had left one bag full of new stuff at her house.  We had to make sure each bag weighed less than 50lbs.  It was tricky but I managed to get each bag right in at 50lbs!  Lucky me.

Kimberly took us to the airport the next day.  We ended up having to pay for one extra bag each on United.  A mere $200 to go with the other $300 in baggage fees we’ve paid.

Our flight from Los Angeles to Hawaii was 5.5 hours.

Honolulu, Hawaii

We arrived at 5:00pm, collected our 4 bags plus our 3 carry on bags.  The Pacific Marina Inn sent their shuttle for us.  We had just enough time to Uber to dinner on a pier.  This is not a particularly nice place to stay, but they have a free shuttle, are close to the airport and have wifi.

The next morning we left the hotel at 4:00am.  We could not check in online and we had a ton of bags so we wanted to arrive early.  We were first in line but by the time the desk opened there were 50 people behind us.  See photo below with the carts filled with coolers.  Thank goodness we arrived early.

The flight to Majuro is 5 hours.

Majuro, Marshall Islands

We made it!  Matt with our 7 bags weighing in at over 250lbs.  I am so glad we made it back with all of our luggage.

Welcome to Majuro

Welcome to Majuro

Oh No!!

We get back to the boat and it is a HOT MESS! 

  • The waterline and bottom were disgusting and covered in growth. 
  • The inside was moldy and smelled dank.

This all despite the fact that we hired a friend to come to the boat daily.  

It took me 2.5 days to go through our bags and stow the junk.  Then I spent another day cleaning the interior of the boat.

We decided to go out to eat our first night back. 

While we were at dinner a massive rain storm hit Majuro.  Winds were blowing upward of 40-50kts, trees were blowing sideways, streets were flooded, and the power and internet went out. Gesh! 

Of course we had a 1/2 mile to walk back to the dinghy and mile dinghy ride to the boat. We were soaked.

When we got back to the boat we discovered a massive leak over the master bed. Great.  Everything was soaked through (sheets, pillows, mattresses, topper).

A trip to the laundry place was in order.  Luckily they have decent machines and it only cost $8 to do 2 loads of laundry (wash/dry).

We have a washer machine onboard but our water tanks are low and it keeps drizzling outside. 

We provisioned at two different stores to prepare for our upcoming voyage.  Then we left for Enemonit.

Cleaning the Outside

We wanted to use our pressure washer and wash down pump to clean the anchor chain as it came up.  We knew it would be filthy based on the waterline of the boat. 

Unfortunately, the wash down pump didn’t start so we had to bring the chain up dirty.  Not ideal!

We motor sailed the 5 miles to Enemonit, picked up a mooring and called it a night. 

The next morning there was a horrible fish smell in the house. 

We could smell the anchor chain – oh goodness! We quickly dropped all of the chain on the sea bed so we could clean it later.

It was time to clean the waterline and the bottom of the boat. I’m in the water at 7:30am and spend the next 2 hours cleaning. 

I scrubbed the chain as it slowly came up.  It took a long time and I was exhausted!  I spent 4 hours in the water.

We prepared our passage meals, got out our passage safety gear and headed back to town to clear out.

Meal Preparation

One of the things we’ve learned along the way is that having pre-cooked meals prior to leaving is a must have. 

Matt and I spent the better part of a day preparing and cooking the following for our 3 week trip:

  • Pulled pork (perfect for tacos, migas, and sandwiches)  (4 meals x 2 ppl)
  • Gumbo (just add rice and it makes a healthy hearty meal) (5 meals x 2ppl)
  • Butter Chicken (with curry) (4 meals x 2ppl)
  • Pot stickers (great for a snack or light meal) (2 meals x 2 ppl)
  • Eggplant Parmesan (1 meal x 2 ppl)
  • Snickerdoodle cookie dough (just bake)
  • Peppermint cookie dough (just bake)
  • English Muffins

We have to eat through all of our meats, dairy (milk, butter, cheese, eggs), produce (fruit, veg, onions, potato’s, fresh garlic), nuts, popcorn, honey and any seed product. 

None of these things are allowed into Fiji.  So, we either eat it or feed the fish.   

Checking out of Majuro, Marshall Islands

We returned to Majuro at the beginning of April 2025. 

Be sure to read our blog post “A Magical Wedding.”